I know who these are because each week I check for progress by cutting the growing tips of infected plants. This past weekend I shovel pruned Madame Isaac Pereire (a hand full of spring blooms and since not a single growing tip has been uninfected) and Rugelda (1 bloom all season and remaining tips all infected).

Other candidates for the sharp end of the shovel include:
Queen of Denmark-all growing tips since spring infested.
Sombreuil-Most growing tips infested since spring.
Leda, all growing tips since spring infested. This one really hurts because I'm so fond of her.
Felicite Parmentier-good spring bloom, all new growth infested. Painful too because she's a great rose.
Barron Gerod-less spring bloom this year-all new growth infested.
Comte de Chambord-some midge, but covered with spider mites.
2 Danae located in different beds-ditto CdC
Heritage-no spring bloom, sporadic bloom since but heavy midge infection.
Reicht President Von Hindenberg-1 bloom, remaining growth infested.
Therese Bugnet-no repeat bloom.
Jude the Obscure-Had spring bloom that was eaten by deer. Since, only one or two blooms. Remaining tips infested.
Erfurt-Sporadic bloom. Mostly infested with midge.
Conrad F. Meyer-1 bloom. New growth infested with midge or some type of boarer that discolors pith way down cane. Have seen this on Leda as well.

Here is the interesting thing. MAC, Rugelda, QoD, Leda, & FP are all in the same border separated by various other roses that have only had minor damage or bloom in spite of damage. These include-Ghislaine de Feligonde, Louise Odier, Rose de Rescht, Graham Thomas.

Barron Gerod is in an adjacent bed and sits behind Carefree Delight-who has had minor midge damage but keeps chugging the blooms.

CdC, Presi VH and Danae (one of them) is in the long spruce border that includes Thomas Affleck, Stanwell Perpetual (infested but has bloomed), White Pet, Cornelia, Belinda's Dream, Mrs. RM Finch, Alexander McKinzie (has never been much of a rebloomer) Prairie Princess (infested but blooms) Penelope (minor midge) and Hot Cocoa. Unless noted, there were no instances of midge infestation.

Move down to the corner fence area and Heritage is surrounded by Tuscany Supurb, Wm Lobb, Echo, all except Echo have had sporadic midge infestation.

In the front along my driveway, Jude, Erfurt and CFM are located on either side of the driveway. Lady Hillington (immediately adjacent to Jude) has had no infestation and across the way Ballerina, Lions Rose, Peppermint China have been virtually unaffected by rose midge as have the other 3 China roses in the same bed with Jude.

For what it is worth, I've seen little or no infestation on the Polys or Hybrid Musk (except Danae). Chinas and Teas are relatively clean as well.

I WILL NOT BE REPLACING THESE SPED ROSES WITH MORE ROSES!

Now, of course the question is: If I sp the real offenders, will the midge go away or find new favorites. I'm inclined to think they will find new favorites. What do you think?

Barbara-So sorry this is soooo long.

Although I don't have a midge problem so far, I understand the misery of the situation. I also would consider giving it up if I had midge. However, I would try PatriciaE's tactic of winter mulching with newspaper. This entails covering every square inch of ground under the drip lines and a foot beyond, while the plants are fully dormant and all the midges are in the soil. I would try that before shovel-pruning. If the paper was applied after the midge had started the new season, I think they would just pupate in the mulch over the paper.

Did the midge prevent the once-bloomers from blooming? I had thought that wasn't usually the case.

Is GrubEx labelled for rose midge? If not (and if the winter mulch doesn't work), I would try Merit soil granules in early spring. Maybe that would at least allow you to grow once-bloomers successfully.

I suspect that shovel-pruning the worst roses would just cause the midge to move to the other roses. I posted a list of "midge-resistant" cultivars based on a survey at a nursery, and everybody chimed in with "x is not resistant in my garden."

With sympathy, M

How often did you spray with the merit/cyfluthrin insecticide? Once a week was needed over 5 weeks for me this year, horrible, I know, but I haven't seen a bloom on Leana all season until the last two weeks. The little **(^*^%%&s even got into my pots. I'm going to apply another treatment on Labor Day.

patricia

Grub EX is Merit. Or anyway I used the product that states it is Merit. Maybe it isn't called GrubEx. Thanks for your sympathy. I'm inclined to think a soil treatment does not kill the pupuae (is that right? where the devils pupate?). However, it does seem to help minimize JBs. I don't think these devils eat until they reach tender tasty rose tips. Then they gorge themselves!

Diane, I started spraying every two weeks along with my regular fungicide spray in spring with leaf out. I have noticed an increase in midge damage when the weather gets over 85 degrees, typically in the 90s. Therefore, when that hot spell hit I started spraying weekly. I have even considered every three days but that thought is just horrifying to me.

As to spring bloom on once bloomers, I can only say they bloomed. It seems like there were not as many blooms as in the past, but this could be my imagination. If once bloomers are denied growth over the summer, will they bloom in the spring? I should think that after a few years of this they would not. In any event, I have heard so many say that once you have rose midge you will always have rose midge. I am giving serious consideration, if this statement is true, to give up on roses all together.

Thank you both.

Barbara

GrubEx used to be Merit, but Bayer, who has the patent, apparently took it away from Scotts, so GrubEx has been something else for several years. You may have an older package that is Merit.

Patricia, thank you for responding. Your advice about the newspaper gave me hope, and I do think it helped. It simply did not have the total results I wanted. I have grass. Well, really grass and weeds in what resembles the LAWN. That charge is dept. 3B (the DH). He mows and that's about it. And yes, though my beds/borders are good distances apart, it is possible, even likely, that midge flew or were carried by the wind. Still, I have a rose somewhat isolated from the rest with no infestation whatsoever.

And I agree that getting rid of the serious offenders will only steer the midge towards another rose. However, I have a garden with roses, not a garden OF roses. I'm thinking that in those borders that are PRIMARILY roses, replacing a few with shrubs or perenniels that draw beneficial insects might make for a healthier garden.

Please, please do not think I am pointing a judgmental finger at those of you with Rose Gardens. I've seem some of them and they are awesome, a real beauty to behold. Every garden/gardener is different and mine is getting out of hand with maintenance. I still have areas that were not weeded this spring.

It pains me considerably that I cannot give away some of these sp candidates. One of the greatest joys of gardening is sharing. But, I simply would not be willing to risk passing along my plight to some poor unsuspecting soul.

I'm sure this story is not finished. It will take true grit, IMHO to carry out my threat of shovel pruning. Still this is what I'm thinking. Where is the flaw?

Barbara

patricia

Soil drench is something else. Could I use a hose in feeder? I remember doing that with the diazanon back when I had some. I measured the time it took to fill a gallon jug with my hose then walked around with the hose end feeder counting 1-mississippi, 2-mississippi. Course, a watch with a second hand would have been better and more accurate. The things we do for our roses! I did a soil drench the hard way previously by filling gallon jugs and walking from one rose to another. It took me 2 days. I had fewer roses then.

I really would like to see lady bugs and praying mantis again. I haven't even seen a dragon fly this year.

Thanks for your help-all of you. I really like this forum. I couldn't get more sympathy and free advice from my mother (GRHS).

Barbara

If you say once bloomers aren't affected by midge, I'll take your word for it and leave them along. That's a relief!

Reason for the "scourge"? That's a tough one. It would be easy to blame non-organic gardeners; however, as crazy as it seems, it could just as easily be organic rose vendors. Course there are State laws that govern selling plants, but those laws are not all equal. I suspect I imported midge in a potted rose plant from one of those organic rose vendors. It does not help that many, like me, are ignorant of all the many pests that plague roses. Unless the midge is attacked quickly and ruthlessly (as you did), it can easily get out of hand. Arriving in a potted plant seems most likely since they went from the east coast to the west coast in a relatively short period of time.

It is hard to say really. I only know I need to do something drastic that I hope is not equally stupid. Surely there is a beneficial insect that is just chomping at the bit to get hold of one of those tender midge morsels. We will never isolate it; gardening is such a random thing.

Thanks, Patricia, for describing your method. I'll have to take a look at the beds and see what I can do.

Barbara

Here is a recent study that may be helpful. Merit granules applied in late winter (late Feb. in Portland, Oregon) maintained adequate control throughout the season. Foliar sprays of cyfluthrin every two weeks were less effective. In this climate, midges emerge in April. It was a light year for midge owing to a severe frost in April. They didn't find midge damage until June. See page 63.

I was the King of Midge. But no more. I have been using the Bayer Tree and Turf (I think) which contains both Merit and Cyfluthrin. This is a hose end bottle which has two application settings. Wasn't this a Diane, NJ recommendation? I use the heaviest setting to thoroughly soak the soil in my beds. One bottle is enough for 3 or 4 applications for my 60 roses. It is really easy to use.

Of course, I doubt there are any earthworms or any other signs of life in my soil. But this was a problem which ended all blooming after mid June. I had to choose between worms or blooms...

Barbara, yes, I use one of those dial-n-spray hose end units. Easy to use and I just keep that dial-n-spray filled with insecticide for midge.

Old Roser, my worst midge magnet is Leda. I also have it on my Gallicas.

Harry, are you still spraying? Do you see any end in site?

Annie, you are very kind. You might notice most of my photos are from the spring bloom.

Michael, is this study by the same people as you posted last year? I believe the folks last year said to lay down granules in spring and follow through with spraying every two weeks. Now they say the spray is not effective. Interesting.

Thank you all for your advice and support. I really appreciate your help.

Barbara

I haven't sprayed in a couple of weeks, and I only see a little damage in one of the potted plants.

It's just one study, and conditions vary. I think I remember a study where granules alone didn't work well, but it may have been in nursery pots.

Michael yes, AS effective is right. I got that. But if granules alone will do the trick, I will do that. I suspect earthworms will return with a top dressing of manure added later on in the season after the midge are gone. (If I ever get rid of them.) However, I think timing is important too. They have to go down before the midge emerge in the spring.

I'm trying to formulate a long term plan that will have an end.

Harry, I'm so glad you conquered your midge problem.

Thanks again folks.
Barbara

Good blooms
patricia

I think some of you folks are right about spraying. It has little impact. I have done the soil drenches before and saw little or no improvement, but maybe the infestation was heavier then.

Labrea, in my garden among repeaters, the bourbons are the worst offenders and second place goes to the hybrid perpetuals. Maggie, MAC, Louise Odier all have midge more than most others. Still, I don't think midge are variety specific.

Ogroser, thank you. I do not know why my attempts have been so futile. The only thing I know to do is keep going. I used diazanon (I purchased the last bottle before the ban) as a spray and soil drench and this did not help.

I'll try the imidacloprid /cyflurthin as a soil drench this weekend and see if there is any improvement.

Diane, I don't have the dial a spray hose end feeder but I can purchase one. Is there a particular setting I need to use for the liquid concentrate?

Again I am indebted to you all. Thanks.

Barbara

patricia

Barb,
I sprayed once in June, once in July and once in August. One more time in September will finish off the bottle. Without the midge around, the Japanese beetles were able to fully satisfy themselves.

"Down in the dirt"....and how does having a well mulched rose bed fit in?
Does thick mulch mean that more chemicals are needed to soak both the mulch and soil?
If you mulch overwinter, should the mulch be removed and used somewhere else before spring and midge hatch?

Michael asked, "how did the midge find Joe's roses in Manhattan? " Michael, Rose Rosette found the Brooklyn Botanical Garden........They're downwind of our problems.

I feel doomed to forever spray pesticides. Either that or give up on the roses. I don't like either of these alternatives.
Barbara

Imidacloprid is very persistent in the soil. For JB grubs the label says a spring application is effective into the fall. Although Portland didn't have heavy midge pressure that year, the study I linked got good control with only one application of granules before pruning time. I wonder if monthly sprays are needful. Maybe one followup drench after 3-5 months would be enough.

For the record, I did the soil drench this weekend with the recommended Imidacloprid/cyflurthin. Monday there was midge damage but this could have been left over from before the drench. I will wait one week and check again.

I really appreciate all you folks kind and generous support. Thank you all.

Barbara

I don't know for sure that the midge can pupate in the mulch, I wass just guessing at why your spring treatment didn't help.

Sure hope you can get some relief.

Barbara, I neglected to answer an earlier question. I have my dial-n-spray set for 2 Tablespoons/gallon. And yes, you might need two or three applications, as michaelg said, you are between cycles, some are still in the ground, some are just laying eggs, some pupae haven't dropped yet.

I wonder if the mulch could be reused in a border without roses? Or if the compost bin gets hot enough to kill the larvae? Three cycles sounds about right, but I suppose it depends upon the length of the growing season and how long the warm weather persists into fall.

Diane, thank you. I think I had my sprayer set to 3 Tbs/gallon. I'll do another application this weekend. I'm more hopeful now that this problem can be solved.

Thanks to all.
Barbara-going out to check growing tips.

Annie

Streptocarpy-DO NOT WAIT! With such a short life cycle (3-7 days) and as many as 30 larvae per midge, these devils can get to plague proportions very quickly. Where do you live? It is always interesting to track the migration of these devils. How do you think you imported them?

I'll tell you all a story that had me floored. I visited my doctor for routine checkup about 3 weeks ago. The office had a number of potted miniature roses in pots labeled Trader Vics. Right at the reception desk was a yellow one with fried tips and one lonely bloom. My doctor is in Baltimore. Check out those roses carefully before you buy!

Barbara

This is a brand new rose bed that was dug in June of this year. Roses were planted in late June First flush was beautiful. Then I started to have problems mid-late July. I tried spraying orthene and that worked about as well as spraying sugar water. I find that Daybreaker and Queen Elizabeth seem to do better whereas 'Oregold' and 'Secret' are just consumed. All the roses came in at about the same time so I imagine that one of the roses must have brought it in. I'm in Pittsburgh. It seems like a lot of us in Pennsylvania have problems with midge.

Ken

I don't really know for sure if this has been the cause for a much better rose year for us, but it does make sense, and it's a heckuva lot cheaper to do for us, even including the cost of the Compost Tea maker we bought. Plus, the crew doesn't fuss about spraying, and in fact are fairly enthusiastic about it (for our crew, LOL). Our rose production has increased about 44% over last year, some of this is due to newly planted roses getting big enough to cut, and stopping some excessive pruning practices in the past (we stopped that 2 years ago).

--Ron

Then there's the black spot that we have to deal with here which I've never been able to quite control with sulfur or garlic.

Ron, I am so glad that you have solved your problem without chemicals. I use both organic/inorganic (obviously with the spraying) in my garden. I collect compost tea from by compost tumbler and spray that over my entire garden over the summer. I've managed to use 3 gallons of tea diluted 1-10. I think so much of fungus is region/garden specific. I know those of us on the east coast have a very difficult time going totally organic.

About 4 years ago I was spraying with the baking soda, Cornell formula. By July my roses had no leaves and many had canker infected canes. I saw no powdery mildew. Now I have almost no BS and several have powdery mildew. All have leaves. I spray with BM/MZ. And yes, I am seriously considering minimizing my spray routine by culling out the poor performers. I have purposely purchased disease resistant varieties these last few year. But it is difficult to evaluate those roses when one has rose midge. First things first.

You have all been very kind. I thank you.
Barbara