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Hyde Hall and Spraying

Posted by ratdogheads 5b NH (My Page) on
Sat, Aug 3, 13 at 13:37

I have a two year old Hyde Hall hedge that has been my pride and joy. We live in an area with tremendous blackspot, and while I do spray many of my roses, last year I chose not to spray Hyde Hall because I had read this caution on David Austin's website: "... it often takes great exception to being sprayed - as do most roses with rugosa in their breeding." FWIW, the leaves are perfectly smooth and look nothing like a rugosa.

Well, I had wondered what "taking great exception" meant, and unfortunately I found out. BS has been very bad this year and Hyde Hall was beginning to spot worse than last year, so I ignored the caution and sprayed (I use Honor Guard and apply strictly according to directions). Within two weeks 90% of the leaves dropped off. Just gone. I'm pretty convinced that it's the result of spraying because there are two shrubs at the end of the hedge that had been clean and I recall leaving them alone and they look ok. Not too badly spotted either.

Has anyone else had this reaction and if so on which of their roses? Are certain varieties more prone to this reaction? Would spraying with insecticide have this same effect or do you think the issue is strictly related to fungicide?


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Hyde Hall and Spraying

I recall numerous warnings at one time about NEVER using a Daconil spray on Double Delight. No longer remember why and have never had the nerve to try it out in order to find out why I shouldn't do it. LOL

I've grown one rugosa rose and have never sprayed it--because it has never succumbed to blackspot.

I think it is the fungicide, not the insecticide, which causes the problem on some roses, but I can't say for sure. Will be interesting to see what others have to say also.

Kate


Meant to add that I'm so sorry to hear about your Hyde Halls. I'm sure they will recover--but that isn't much of a consolation as one is sitting there contemplating them in their disaster mode, is it!

This post was edited by dublinbay on Sat, Aug 3, 13 at 14:57


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RE: Hyde Hall and Spraying

What Daconil usually does to Double Delight is cause a lot of fine black speckling of the foliage. I guess it could have worse effects in very hot weather.

It isn't just fungicides that can hurt rugosas. Some miticides are potentially phytotoxic, as are all oils, soaps, and detergents, and Wilt Pruf. I have heard reports of Sevin insecticide burning plants.

This is the first time I have heard of propiconazole burning roses.


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RE: Hyde Hall and Spraying

Rugosas do not like to be sprayed with anything, other than water, of course. I do spray mine once each year in the winter when there are no leaves on the plant, my annual copper fungicide spraying that I laughingly call my "dormant" spray.

Rosefolly


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RE: Hyde Hall and Spraying

Follow up and revision to my impression of what caused Hyde Hall to defoliate.

The hedge is long, situated N-S with the north end getting a bit of shade and hence more BS pressure. I had sprayed only the end that was showing BS. The last two plants on the south end had held onto some of their foliage but as the BS progressed, they also dropped their foliage.

I considered that I don't want a hedge of bare sticks and if fungicide and/or BS was going to cause defoliation, I may as well scrap HH (ouch$!) and plant something else. I figured I had nothing to lose so I began regular spraying and hoped for the best, first a dose of Moncozeb, then routine Honor Guard.

I fertilized with Neptune's Harvest kelp meal and a few doses of Miracle Grow and by the end of the summer I had decent new foliage. I can comfortably report that the fungicide isn't harming the foliage.

BTW the bushes remained constant bloom throughout the whole ordeal.


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RE: Hyde Hall and Spraying

Thanks for the informative follow-up and correction. The same conclusion would apply to Banner Maxx (the same chemical) and, in all likelihood, Bayer Disease Control (a similar chemical). But DA's caution may still hold good for such materials as sulfur, copper, bicarbonate, and oil, which are more phytotoxic than the best modern synthetics.


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