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| So I decided to move a few roses�.. Mons. Tillier made the move like a champ. Cornelia came in a slow second. Hermann Schmidt has not fared so well. This rose is so vigorous I assumed it could survive a nuclear blast. Alas, all foliage and dried up�freeze dried leaves. Of course I've been watering it but will the canes make it? Thanks! Susan |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Susan, how long ago was the big move? I haven't had a lot of experience with roses, but have noticed that some seem to like a new foliage wardrobe when moved to a new location. I guess the stress of the move causes defoliation, but if it's been a few weeks, for example, and you're not seeing new leaf buds yet, I might start to wonder. Good luck, |
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- Posted by melissa_thefarm NItaly (My Page) on Tue, Sep 30, 14 at 5:21
| I can't say, but roses are tough. I always give a woody plant a year before declaring it dead; I mean, ones that have died back to the ground. I've had roses recover from some appalling setbacks. Melissa |
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- Posted by poorbutroserich Nashville 7a (My Page) on Tue, Sep 30, 14 at 9:07
| The move was just last week. I will be patient. Thanks you all! Susan |
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| The leaves having died will reduce moisture loss. The canes alone don't lose much water. I usually remove at least half the foliage (starting at the top) when transplanting, or almost all of it if it's hot weather and I don't get a good root ball. If the canes aren't shriveled, it will probably survive. You should hope for cold weather so it doesn't waste energy growing new shoots and leaves, depleting the sugar it needs for antifreeze. September is probably the worst time to transplant in eastern zones 6-7. Best time is late November through March. |
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| "Best time is late November through March." (for transplanting in eastern zones 6-7) Thank you! I have several roses that were put in a "holding garden" as bands or very young plants to let them put on some size and to get some feel for how disease resistant they would be here. I've been wondering when the best time to transition them to more permanent locations would be. November-March is basically dormancy, right? Does that go across the board for both the more hardy classes as well as the more warm weather selections like teas? Is this when you would pull a rose from the ground for bare rooting? (I have a few more mature roses I'd like to get rid of that aren't happy here and I'm thinking I could just bare root them and have some flexibility in finding new homes for them.) ...all questions asked by another gardener who moved a rose in September that I probably shouldn't have!... |
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| The very best time to transplant bare root is late winter before bud break, just as with purchased bare roots. But any time during dormancy is fine. I have also moved large roses bare root in spring or mid-summer, defoliating them to prevent moisture loss. With bands you will get a good root ball, so they can be moved in leaf or any time, but again late winter is ideal. With tender varieties as bands, you should protect them during cold spells below 10F. |
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- Posted by poorbutroserich Nashville 7a (My Page) on Thu, Oct 2, 14 at 17:24
| Thanks Michael. Question: if the plant is not dormant in November will that then effect the winter survival? I wanted to wait til November (couldn't in this case) but then I wondered if we had another harsh winter would that kill the rose? I guess what I'm trying to ask is, will the soil protect that root ball? Susan |
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