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| Ok. So I dug up my MAC budded on fortuniana to move her to the trellis. She's about 4 ft high. The rootball was non existent and when I moved her there were just tiny fibrous roots. I planted her in a hole that had been filled and drained 3 times and then put moist soil in the hole. I kept her moist yesterday and today. Same with Mutablis own root. Yesterday was cloudy and cool but there was some drooping. Today is hot and hazy. Kept them moist today but the foliage at the ends of canes is really drooping. Is there anything else I can do? Should I prepare for them to die? Thanks. Susan |
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| I don't think death is necessarily imminent. Continue to water her regularly, and spraying her with water is probably good. The wilted growth will either wilt further, and dry up -- in which case, prune back to healthy growth -- OR it will plump back up. Otherwise, do not stress the plant with any fertilizers. OH, and if it is in full sun, shading it would be good. It may die, but there's a good chance it will only be set back. Jeri |
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| I bet it will be alright. You can also drape it with sheets or burlap for a few days to reduce sun intensity on the plants while they recover. |
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| I would be surprised if you actually killed a Mutabilis. I had one that sat in a foot of flood water every time we had a good storm and it never missed a beat. I tried to dig it up before I moved since it was so huge, but I don't own a backhoe so I gave up. Whenever I move a rose, or any plant for that matter, I cut off most of the top since the roots get too damaged to support it. Your roses are just shedding the parts that wouldn't make it for you. Evenie |
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| I would be surprised if you actually killed a Mutabilis. I had one that sat in a foot of flood water every time we had a good storm and it never missed a beat. I tried to dig it up before I moved since it was so huge, but I don't own a backhoe so I gave up. Whenever I move a rose, or any plant for that matter, I cut off most of the top since the roots get too damaged to support it. Your roses are just shedding the parts that wouldn't make it for you. Evenie |
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| Wilted stems won't rehydrate. It's tied to the physics of their vascular systems. Cut anything wilted off. Cut lower than the wilt, because you've lost a huge supporting cast of feeder roots. Then shade to reduce evapotranspiration. Fortuniana isn't like so many other roses. It wants all its water and it wants it now, and tonight and tomorrow. |
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| It is my practice to strip off the leaves when I move a rose and it starts to droop. This has been a successful strategy for me, most of the time at least. And yes, continue to water to keep the soil damp. Of course you don't want to keep the roots saturated. Soggy wet soil will not hold any air, and plants need airspace in soil as well as moisture. R |
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| Actually, we HAVE had wilting growth re-hydrate. We moved a well-grown Tea Rose in summer (long story), and the root ball completely shattered. We stuffed it in the hole and wet it down well. The next day, the temperature went up to 95, and the new growth did wilt. The temps continued to reach that hi for the subsequent 3 days. We watered the rose well, each day, and by the next day, it had re-hydrated, and never looked back. Jeri |
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- Posted by poorbutroserich none (My Page) on Fri, Oct 4, 13 at 22:40
| Thanks for all the great wisdom and experience. I HATE to cut the growth on MAC since she is my climber, but I KNOW she will grow grow grow. I will get some shade for them tomorrow and we are supposed to have rain Sunday. I really appreciate the support you all provide. Susan |
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- Posted by kittymoonbeam 10 (My Page) on Sat, Oct 5, 13 at 9:47
| I killed a Mutabilis by moving it. If you are not going to cut all the leaves off, then maybe just take a scissors and trim back the leaves to the first few on each group of 5. I would provide shade. Sorry this happened to you. |
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| Pot to ground, you get a root ball. Ground to ground, it's practically bare root. I remove most of the foliage for a ground-to-ground transplant so I don't have to worry about the plant dying of dehydration. This doesn't necessarily mean severe pruning. It's the leaves much more than the canes that lose water. The canes have stored energy to support re-rooting and regrowth of foliage. I remove young soft stems and cut back plants if they are too big to carry easily. But the key factor is defoliation. I remove foliage from the top down and leave as many lower leaves as I think the roots can support. That way, when new growth comes at the top, you don't have bare knees. In hot sunny weather, shading plants for the first week will roughly double the number of leaves that survive without wilting. Lawn or deck chairs are handy for shading. Although the rose will probably survive, this is not a good time to transplant in zone 6 and 7. During dormancy, it's as easy as planting a new bare-root. Best time is late winter or very early spring. Late spring through midsummer are OK because the plant will have plenty of time to recover and store energy before winter. |
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- Posted by floridadon 8b (My Page) on Sat, Oct 5, 13 at 19:08
| Keep the soil moist and beyond that I leave the plant alone. The plant will react in it's own unique way for the conditions that it has. I would not cut back the plant, I would not strip leaves from the plant. If it is in well amended soil it will respond and make it's own decisions. I base my opinion on moving and planting hundreds of roses in the last 12 months, most throughout the extreme summer heat of central Florida. Plants lost to date, one. Don |
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| They're just in transplant shock, it's only been one day, give them a chance to regroup. I know I have had wilted ends rehydrate on my roses. I don't understand why they wouldn't? If a rose is really large I do cut it back some when I move it because no matter how hard you try or how careful you are you will lose some of the root ball. Less root means less ability to feed and water top growth so paring it down helps. I have never stripped off any leaves. I keep them well watered (and spray the foliage) but not drowning wet and give them time to recuperate. I have never lost a rose due to a transplanting. |
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- Posted by jeannie2009 PNW 7/8 (My Page) on Sun, Oct 6, 13 at 8:01
| This Autumn we will be transplanting some 6-7 rose bushes. Not my favorite project but the garden is now getting older and it is proving that some of the chosen sites for particular roses is not working. Usually due to crowding out as a neighbor rose is being a sun and ground hog. We mud-in our bushes: Dig a large hole, place a 4-6" layer of well rotted horse manure or compost, then 4-6" good garden soil. Now water until you have oozie mud. Now dig up the bush to be moved, surround the roots with a tarp, transfer to the new site and gently slide the rootball into the newly prepared hole; minus the tarp. Surround the rootball with more garden soil. Water, water and then water. I moved 2 large rose bushes in July using this system. It was both hot and dry. While they temporarily wilted they quickly went back to vigorous growth. If the wilted leaves become crunchy, they usually fall off; but new ones reappear. Yours will also be fine I'm sure. |
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- Posted by kittymoonbeam 10 (My Page) on Tue, Oct 8, 13 at 13:24
| How are they doing? How are you doing? |
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- Posted by poorbutroserich none (My Page) on Tue, Oct 8, 13 at 17:08
| Thanks Kitty for asking! I really appreciate that. Jeannie, that sounds like a great method. MAC is rallying. Had a cloudy, misty day which helped tremendously. Mutabalis is still droopy. I'm doing ok. Lesson learned. I sure didn't want to lose MAC! Susan |
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- Posted by kittymoonbeam 10 (My Page) on Wed, Oct 9, 13 at 11:13
| This is good news. Watch the watering on Mutabilis. I think I soggied mine to death in my clay soil. |
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- Posted by poorbutroserich none (My Page) on Wed, Oct 9, 13 at 18:20
| Ok. I'm just trying to keep the uppermoist moist but not waterlog it. Susan |
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- Posted by farmerduck NJ (My Page) on Thu, Oct 10, 13 at 12:14
| I had to move roses in July and, then again, in late October last year, all with seemingly very small root balls. They all survived. The new growth on thoses relocated in July had all withered, but they all survived. Back when I moved those last October, I was told that there is little chance they would make it through winter because they won't have time to reestablish their root system before winter (and the last winter here in Northern NJ is a cold one). They are mostly tougher plants than people give them credit for. |
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