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| Who germinates their seeds in wet paper towels/baggies, etc. rather than sewing them directly in the seed starting medium? What are the advantages of germinating before planting? |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by petunia_2006 (My Page) on Fri, Jan 6, 12 at 19:40
| You can calculate the germination viability percentage if you start 10 seeds but I usually germinate large seeds such as morning glories or squash seeds in the windowsill to get a head start on the season. It takes up less room. |
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| I use the baggie method because I start small quantities and I end up with fewer "no shows" taking up valuable space. I put 2-4 seeds in each cell(depending on cell size). If they all germinate, I separate them into their own cells. It's also easier to give certain seeds like peppers the heat they need to germinate as opposed to finding space and a heat source for a whole tray of cells/containers. It's easy to check on their progress too, just hold the baggie up to a light to see if there's roots. |
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| "I put 2-4 seeds in each cell(depending on cell size). If they all germinate..." That should be...I put 2-4 'sprouted' seed in each cell, and if they all grow I separate them into their own cells. Never type when tired... And...if a sprout doesn't grow it's usually because I planted it too deep or damaged the root in the process. HTH |
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- Posted by Handsome54 6b (My Page) on Sat, Jan 7, 12 at 13:12
| Thanks HTH for the input ! I've never tried germinating before planting, but I may this season! OBTW my sis just moved back to Kansas after 15 years of living in Beaverdam WI! |
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| I like to soak them first cause I've planted seeds that didn't get enough moisture when sowed in flats and didn't sprout. |
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| Handsome54, "Who germinates their seeds in wet paper towels/baggies, etc. rather than sewing them directly in the seed starting medium? What are the advantages of germinating before planting?" The baggie/wet towel method takes up less space and lets you have more options for keeping them warm. I don't use that method for anything other than germination testing, because it is tedious and time-consuming to move the sprouts from the baggie into a pot, and you run the risk of breaking the root, which is probably fatal to the seedling at that stage. And the sprout roots can grow into difficult-to-place curved shapes. I prefer to use heat mats and humidity domes to start my seedlings directly in 3.25-inch clear plastic square pots. The clear plastic lets me see the roots at the side of the pots so that I can judge when the seedling needs to be set out or re-potted to a larger pot. ZM P.S. Over in the Annuals forum you mentioned you were in Topeka with a zone of 5b, which sounds about right. Am I right in assuming that your 6b zone here is a typo? |
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- Posted by Handsome54 6a (My Page) on Thu, Jan 12, 12 at 17:44
| Thanks ZM! I'm arthritic, so pregermination prolly aint for me! :) Yeah, I need to change that profile!Like the clear pot idea. OBTW do you overhead water your seedlings? |
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| Handsome54, "...do you overhead water your seedlings?" Occasionally, but usually I just pour water (with a small amount of soluble nutrients in it) into the trays and let the pots soak it up through their bottom holes. I plant my seeds in medium that has been pre-soaked. I keep the pots under humidity domes until the seedlings emerge. The water that is already in the medium is usually enough to get them to germinate because the humidity domes keep the water loss to a very low value. Overhead watering could promote disease (such as Damping Off), although in those times when I chose to do it I didn't have a problem. As the seedlings grow larger, I like to foliar feed them some, and that implies overhead watering, or spraying or spritzing them with the weak fertilizer solution. That also helps keep their leaves clean. ZM |
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| You might check out winter sowing, low mait way to get things started, no hardening off , little chance of mildew ETC. |
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| zenman - where do you get the clear pots? Also - I have some plants going right now. I potted them up in "natural and organic happy frog potting soil" and watered with diluted (to container specifications) seaweed emulsion. I have taken the humidity dome off them now - toms are 8", basil 4" and peppers and eggplants just starting first true leaves. Should I always use the seaweed for watering? dilute more to do so? I'm thinking without the dome, and heated indoors, they will need water every day or every other day - use the emulsion 1xweek - more or less? In watering from the bottom, is there a size plant/container which wont work? For example, I put my little basils into large pots - 4 seedlings to a 6.5 deep pot - the intention for these is to harvest as indoor potted herbs. When I put them in, of course the roots were 6" above the bottom of the containers, so I didn't think that water would effectively wick up that to those baby roots enough, so watered overhead. Can you give some guidelines on what is needed size-wise for bottom watering to work? TIA! |
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Hi t-bird,
You can just barely see the roots appearing at the bottom of the pots. As they become more rootbound you can clearly see the roots growing down the sides of the pots. When that happens, I repot to 5-inch black plastic square pots. |
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| yes - it is tedious! LOL! Late for work this morning tending my flock!!! Thank you so much for your thoughtful answers! I appreciate the time you took to do so! |
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