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chemocurl

peony seed-what to do-

I recently collected the big hard black seeds from some peonies.

How/when would it be best to start them?

Should I stratify, (put in fridge or freezer?) and then plant early spring maybe, as soon as things thaw here in my area? Plant late this fall? Nick seed?

Should I maybe do some different ways, to assure I get some going? I might add, I don't have anything set up or care to start inside.

Your help is appreciated.

Sue

Comments (7)

  • morz8 - Washington Coast
    17 years ago

    Sue,sow them now - these break dormancy in two stages...Seed needs to be sown in a moist medium warm, and, after the roots have developed, exposed to cold or winter for approx. two and a half months. This overcomes the dormancy that exists in the shoot tip - that will show up when temps begin to warm in Spring.

    Plant the seeds about 1" deep, here where winter is wet and mild, some grit as a pot topping will help to discourage algae and moss. Give the root development some room by sowing in pots 4-5" deep, protect from rodents/birds. (Don't give up if you don't find seedlings next Spring - I had peony seeds that took 18 months to germinate one sowing and now sow them immediately in late summer/ earliest Fall)

  • webkat5
    17 years ago

    Assuming these seeds are not tree peonies...

    Thompson and Morgan suggests a lengthy germination (up to a year) with light...kept in a moist shady location.

    "Paeonia...HP...365+...L...X...50-60º...Well drained...JC See No. 16....Keep shaded and moist. "

    Here are some specific requirements:

    "Number 16. Outdoor treatment

    The above mentioned methods (12-15) accelerate the germination process and help to prevent seeds being lost due to external hazards (mice, disease, etc.) but outdoor sowing is just as effective albeit longer. The seeds are best sown in containers of free draining compost and placed in a cold frame or plunged up to their rim outdoors in a shaded part of the garden, preferably on the north side of the house avoiding cold drying winds and strong sun.

    Recent tests show that much of the beneficial effects of pre-chilling are lost if the seed is not exposed to light immediately afterwards. We therefore recommend sowing the seeds very close to the surface of the soil and covering the container with a sheet of glass. An alternative method especially with larger seeds, is to sow the seed in a well prepared ground, cover with a jam jar and press this down well into the soil so that the seeds are enclosed and safe from predators, drying out etc."

    In consideration of the above requirements, I would suggest winter sowing them...starting now. With any luck you will have germination as early as the spring and be able to plant out by next fall.

    Hope that helps!!

  • morz8 - Washington Coast
    17 years ago

    Webcat, my tree peonies sow exactly the same as herbaceous peonies....now, in earliest Fall. If held to Winter Sow, they don't produce the root until late Spring when soil warms, and the shoot tip until the following late winter in this Z8.

  • webkat5
    17 years ago

    Yes morz8, I believe I mentioned starting them now...see the last paragraph of my post.

    I should explain that winter sowing is a controlled and protected outdoor method of seed starting and doesn't necessarily direct a "specific time" to start seeds. The methods can be used year around to accommodate the requirements of any seed for a specific climate. Even those in zones who do not have winter conditions (freeze and thaw) can utilize the methods successfully.

    Hope that helps to clarify....

    Sorry if there was confusion. :o)

    Here are the suggestions from Thompson and Morgan regarding double dormancy of some tree peonies....

    "15. Double Dormancy

    Some seeds have a combination of dormancies and each one has to be broken in turn and in the right sequence before germination can take place; for example, some Lilies, Tree paeonies, Taxus need a three month warm period (68-86'F) during which the root develops and then a three month chilling to break dormancy of the shoots, before the seedling actually emerges. Trillium needs a three month chill followed by three months of warmth and then a further three month chill before it will germinate."

  • Chemocurl zn5b/6a Indiana
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Thank you both...but I am a little confused (stay that way most of the time it seems).

    Webby,
    Taxus need a three month warm period (68-86'F)

    Well, it is now too late to have a three month warm period, unless you count the time that the seeds have been maturing/drying on the plant. Oftentimes we are ice fishing here in late Dec, so the ground is a lot colder than 68F long b4 that.

    Morz8,
    I'm gonna plant in the ground...couldn't/wouldn't keep a pot watered, especially if it took 18 months. I hope I don't use Preen on the area, b4 they germinate sometime a lot sooner than that.

    Wish me luck. These were saved from Lucky Lady, which had a very interesting bloom.

    Sue

  • shrubs_n_bulbs
    17 years ago

    I should explain that winter sowing is a controlled and protected outdoor method of seed starting and doesn't necessarily direct a "specific time" to start seeds. The methods can be used year around to accommodate the requirements of any seed for a specific climate. Even those in zones who do not have winter conditions (freeze and thaw) can utilize the methods successfully.

    Ah, so winter sowing means to sow outside in a container at any time of year? Silly me for being confused!

  • pickwick
    17 years ago

    well, I was going to let this one go,shrubs.....
    "a controlled and protected outdoor method of seed starting...." good luck with that concept,then....