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| I have heard conflicting theories on what time of day to water. I have heard many people say that watering in the evening increases the risk of fungus and mildew. However, the article below seems to refute this theory. Watering in the evening would fit into my family's schedule much better, but I do not want to increase the chances of my Mums, Lantanas, Hostas, Ninebark 'Summer Wine', or Weigela 'Wine & Roses' becoming infected with fungus or mildew.
Please let me know what you advise. Below is that link that you can copy and paste into the address search field. http://www.gardeningtipsnideas.com/2007/10/morning_vs_evening_watering _does_it_matter.html |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Tue, May 29, 12 at 16:38
| it is better to water PROPERLY ... and that usually does not include wetting the plant and the evening issue is all about making the plant all wet .. as dark approaches .. and the hot humid nights cause.. among other things molds and mildews ... which leads to stressed plants.. which then bring the bugs.. yada.. yada.. yada ... now.. we are in the shrub forum.. and it is my personal position ... that they NEVER need water.. but for recent transplants ... and that is one reason.. in mixed beds.. you end up with problems .... BTW ... at your link.. the picture shows a water wand... aka breaker bar .. and with that.. YOU WATER THE SOIL... not the plants.. and if you do that.. the entire premise is irrelevant ... your plants are NOT children.. they do not need to be bathed.. regularly .. lol ... if you are dealing with an in-ground lawn watering system.. watering just before dawn.. solves your issue.. never at dusk ... and the article talks about night rain .. and what they miss.. is that after a rain.. it is usually cool.. and or windy ... again.. the issue is dank hot still nights.. thats is when your problems.. literally grow ... ken |
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- Posted by gardengal48 PNW zone 8 (My Page) on Tue, May 29, 12 at 17:04
| The article is not really based on much scientific evidence so not sure I'd give it a whole lot of credence :-) It is not so much an issue of concern for fungal root rots (which I agree are somewhat unlikely related to watering times) as it is of increasing humidity, which can be the cause of many topical or foliar fungal issues. Humidity does tend to be higher at night due to lack of sunlight and its drying properties. But those same drying properties can also be detrimental to watering during the day when the sun is full in the sky - too much evaporation, especially with any overhead irrigation systems. Ken's suggestion for a dawn timing is excellent, for lawns OR plants. As is the statement to avoid overhead watering when ever possible. Low emission drip or soaker systems are much more efficient in both their delivery methods and with promotion of better, healthier plant growth. |
Here is a link that might be useful: your link without cutting and pasting
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- Posted by plantingman 6b (SC KS climate) (samnsarah620@yahoo.com) on Tue, May 29, 12 at 17:28
| Thank you. I always knew that it is never a good idea to wet the foliage, and I understand that watering in the early morning is best, but I just wanted to be sure that if I do water THE SOIL before sun set that i am not going to encourage a mildew of fungus problem on my plants. And, Ken, if what your saying about never watering established shrubs is correct, then it becomes EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to only plant shrubs in your particular climate that do not require additional water. I live in SC KS where we have hot dry summers and cold dry winters. So maybe planting Weigela 'Wine & Roses' shrubs wasn't the best way to go??? I wonder if they are very drought tolerant once they are established. I just planted them in April as 1 gallon shrubs. |
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| Mildew occurs when roots are dry and foliage is damp (and plants are genetically predisposed). That is why it becomes prevalent in summer, especially where summer fogs occur. And roses planted near buildings with concrete foundations are more prone - these foundations dry the soil. Washing off leaves (in the morning) can actually assist in discouraging it, a good dosing also will add to soil moisture. |
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| plantingman, ken is not correct about established woody plants never needing to be watered. In times of serious heat and/or drought, it is important to provide your plants with water as it becomes depleted in the soil. Period. The facts do support the fact that plants (even grass) need a lot less water than most people think. I have gone many months without giving anything but my containerized plants a drop of extra water, but never hesitate to get the hoses out when the plants are in trouble. I water the 'woodies' very, very rarely but always in times of duress. I don't have an irrigation system but use a heavy duty walking sprinkler when the plants begin to have a hard time. It puts down quite a bit of water slowly with little to no run-off. It is still important to select plants that are appropriate to one's climate and lifestyle. I'm not sure that I have any plant species that requires babying...even the annuals are pretty darned tough. We planted Wine and Roses in our back yard beds several years ago. Our summers have been very hot and dry...plus I have red clay soil and I've found that these plants are very drought tolerant once established. These plants really weren't babied much at first, either. BUT, that still doesn't mean that you NEVER have to water them. Just make sure that when you do water, that you do so long enough to get water deep into the soil where it can do some good for a long time. 15 minute irrigation cycles just don't cut it. Our watering is always done in the late afternoon/early evening. We set the hose up to where we want the walking lawn tractor to follow, turn on the water, and go back inside where it's cool, lol. "Scooter" (we had to name it) eventually makes it back to the house and we're done for the night. I've never had a disease problem on my plants or lawn by watering in the evening. I have a wide variety of annuals, perennials, woody shrubs and trees. Giving plants that are showing signs of powdery mildew a brief rinse is an excellent method of preventing a serious infection. Choosing plants that are PM resistant is even better. (Spraying water on other diseases is not a good idea, just PM). You have selected some plants that can be disease prone when the conditions are right for those diseases. |
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- Posted by ken_adrian z5 (My Page) on Wed, May 30, 12 at 8:51
| And, Ken, if what your saying about never watering established shrubs is correct, then it becomes EXTREMELY IMPORTANT to only plant shrubs in your particular climate that do not require additional water. ==>>> you water.. WHEN THEY NEED WATER ... period .. its your garden.. your climate ... etc ... and then you water properly .... what i dont like.. is peeps who treat them like children.. needing their cup of milk every morning.. a bath every night .. etc ... Anthropomorphism is not proper in the garden ... [A figure of speech in which an inanimate object or abstraction is endowed with human qualities or abilities.] they are not a lawn.. or foo foo annuals.. etc ... they are closer to trees in their needs .... and every day watering is MOST LIKELY .. not necessary .... and do mind .... that white-tissued plants.. have greater needs than plain old green ones .... so yes.. i overstated what i meant to say ... ken |
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| Mildew occurs when roots are dry and foliage is damp Yep, this why I severe problems with my ninebarks. I water when I can and typically never water the foilage at day or night. I've watered at night plenty of times. As long as those roots have adequate moisture I wouldn't be as worried about gettting water on the foilage. |
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- Posted by plantingman 6b (SC KS climate) (samnsarah620@yahoo.com) on Thu, May 31, 12 at 13:21
| Thanks for all of the information. I also spoke to our local nurseryman who has been raising plants of all sizes and cultivars in this area his whole life, and he basically said the same thing. Watering in the evening just before sunset is not a problem at all as long as I don't wet the foliage. |
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| How much water established trees and shrubs needs depends on what kinds they are and what the soil conditions are like where they are planted, including if they are effectively mulched. Different species require different levels of moisture, same as the variation and nitrogen levels needed - it is an oversimplification to say that because they are woody they won't need as much water as particular non-woody plants, just as it is an oversimplification to say that woody plants don't need to be fertilized. |
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