Is there anything that can be done with this one? Here most of the hedge is still fine (outside of the frame), i.e. is green top to bottom, but there is this patch where there is no green on the side. How to repair such gap?

Thanks again!

alas and alack you need to whack that section down to about 6 inches fertilize it-liquid will give best results- then trim section every time it grows a few inches

Thanks, that's what I suspected. Wouldn't it make sense to replace the plant if starting with lower height anyway? At least it will be full at that height, instead of waiting for sprouting new growth on bare wood... Or will it be difficult to match new plant with existing hedge (i.e. can I find new plant that won't stand out color/shape-wise)? I have no idea what specimens were used originally for the hedge...

Replacing all plants will look better right away. If you got the money! Don't know how many plants would have to be replaced.

Boxwoods are really hard to match unless you know the culitivar name that are there now. There are many, many varieties and all a bit different... in form, speed of growth, green-ness of leaves, adaption to sun, appearance in winter, etc. etc.

So those are a few things to consider.

Thanks Dave, these are short decorative hedges, just 5-10 plants a segment around the garden, with only 1 segments looking really bad. Shouldn't be too expensive to replace, but I should wait until fall to re-plant, correct?

Also, does anyone repair hedges with plants grown from cuttings? This probably takes a long time, but if you have a very long hedge with only a couple of damaged/dead plants, does it make sense? Generally, how do you repair hedges?

repair by cutting them back-established box is pretty fast-no matter what you should probably go through the hedge a d cut out the oldest wood-you keep hedges in good shape by constant and gradual rejuvenation

Whacking it down is an ancient practice. It's called to coppice and it rapidly regrows new shoots. Much faster in fact than replacing the plant because it already has an established root system. Whereas a new transplant, even a relatively larger shrub, has to expend the majority of it's energy in root development at the expense of branch and leaf development. If you coppiced you must do it in spring (now is good time) and by next summer it will look like the rest. Google coppiced on wiki to see examples and how it's done. Good luck.

Thanks guys, good point about keeping existing (bigger) roots vs transplanting smaller ones. But I thought that now is not the best time to prune box? There is plenty of new growth already, I thought the best time is winter/early spring? Or it doesn't matter all that much when pruning extensively?

Thanks!

Sevimo, I don't know if you're asking a question or making a statement. If you are going to coppice that one shrub now is the time. You'll just have to deal with it looking crappy for one season. If you happen to see new leaf growth on the legs than it might only have been the case where the shrub was pruned improperly to begin with and now that it's properly pruned more light is getting to the area stimulating leaf growth, which means problem solved. If that's not the case than either way (coppice or transplant) the area's not going to look good for a season or two (or more if transplanting).