How long to water new shrubs?

12 years ago

I've gardened for 15 yrs of home ownership--in Illinois, in nice soil. We always did all our own landscaping and planting, etc. Always had great success, etc. Now we live in the hard clay of central NC, and had to plant our landscaping (newly built house) at the start of the heat (90s with hardly any break in the temps and in drought conditions). I planted a month ago, and some of my shrubs still need daily watering (I use a moisture meter so I don't over-water); however, everything looks great--with blooms and/or new growth on everything.

The trees are going at least 2-3 days between waterings (before reading as "dry" a foot down with my moisture meter), but I have 2 types of hollies that are "dry" almost every day. The dry readings come from the soil right around the plant--what it was originally potted in. The backfill clay (about 20% amended) around it is moist or wet. Should I keep watering or should I let it stay dry a bit and force the roots to seek out the wetter back-filled area?

In our last locations, I just put a sprinkler on the landscaped area several times a week for awhile and was done. Here, I can't do that because the water just runs off the clay. I created drip buckets to use around the plants to slowly deliver the water at the base. I'm tired of babysitting 100 plants! I take their "temperature" (moisture reading) every morning and deliver water as needed--I feel like I'm running a nursery! I've spent so much time with them, I've started naming them and talking to them.

Anyway, am I doing enough--not enough?

Thanks.

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Comments (3)

rhizo_1 (North AL) zone 7
12 years ago
You should consider that moisture meters are notoriously inaccurate.

Something very important to consider is the issue with your amended soil and the clay. It is very easy, especially when planting in a clay soil, to create something of a hole-o-muck when we amend the backfill. The moisture has a difficult time leaving that 'improved' soil, so the roots are left in kind of a soupy bathtub.

That's one of the reasons why amending the backfill of a planting hole has not been recommended for many years. If you are preparing a whole planting bed, use all of the amendments you like, but not when planting hole-by-hole.

I was introduced to HARD, red clay when I moved to Northern Alabama. I've learned that plants do fine...no, better than fine...GREAT in clay soil, as long as that soil drains reasonably well. Clay soils require less watering and fertilizing.

Are your landscaped areas mulched? I ask, because not only does mulch cool the soil, preserve the moisture, etc., but helps your water to percolate rather than run off the soil's surface.

Another question. Were the hollies container grown or B&B?
ken_adrian Adrian MI cold Z5
12 years ago
at a minimum.. complete thorough deep waterings for this year ... with near drying in between ... meaning the whole root mass you planted ....

somewhat less next year.. but especially in drought ...

and only in drought the 3rd year...

ought to get you most of the way to 'establishment ... no matter where you live ...

ken
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tracey_b
Original Author
12 years ago
Thanks for the replies.

The shrubs and plants were all container grown. It's that area (the plant's original medium) that always reads "dry". I didn't amend much in the backfill, but that area stays wet. I'm now making even the dry-reading (moisture meter) ones to go at least 2 days between watering--hopefully to make the roots seek out that wetter area in the backfill. It's like the water from the original medium gets sucked out by the clay around it? Or, is it the heat we're having (about a month's worth of 90s so far already) causing the plants to need/use all the water?

Yes, the areas are mulched with triple shred hardwood mulch.

We got a good bit of rain one afternoon earlier in the week. SO nice---got to take the next day "off" gardening duties!

Thanks again.