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arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

Posted by ericren none (My Page) on
Mon, Jul 14, 14 at 15:22

Please help me. My arborvitaes are sick.

10 arborvitaes, we planted �last weekend (8 days ago) along our fence, are turning brown in some tips. They are about 5 ft tall average. The contractor planted the trees for us. He laid a layer of soil conditioner in the hole when he planted . We watered �the tree every evening after 8 pm ever since then (every tree get 1 min watering from normal garden hose in shower mode). He also suggested to use a diluted ammonia solution (1 tbsp. per 1 gallon for one tree) every day during the first week to provide nutrition to the tree. And that was we did too. However, we recently observe some trees are turning brown in the leaves. Please see pictures for more details.

Question : What could go wrong? Am I under watering them? I plan to check the humidity of the root ball tonight after I water them to make sure they are properly watered.

Any suggestion is greatly appreciated. This is my first time here and I hope you all have a great day!


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

1 minute watering for a 5' tree...per day. That sounds odd to me. I planted a spiral/weeping cherry and I am to do long slow waterings every 2-3 days depending on heat temps. I do a very slow trickle for about 30-45 minutes. After 15 minutes I move the nozzle to the opposite side of the trunk.

I can't say...I see that short amount of time watering would even reach the bottom of the root ball. That's the sort of watering I give my cone flowers...


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RE: arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

Pic 1


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RE: arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

Is it me...or an optical illusion...those seem planted far to close to the fence...being planted to close to a fence can reek problems later. Not sure which won in the photo attached...the tree or the fence. Both are still standing.

Though in all honesty...I am not familiar with the growth pattern of what you have planted.

I can guarantee you...watering as you are is part of your problem.


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RE: arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

1 minute per tree per day with hose end shower spray is grossly insufficient. Lose the spray nozzle, turn the water pressure onto a slow trickle and leave the hose in place at the base of each tree for 15-20 minutes or so. Do this at least every 2-3 days (more often if soil very fast drainage or weather demands). And skip any ammonia (??) or other fertilizer - newly planted trees and shrubs are typically shocky and with insufficient root development to assimilate nutrients properly. Wait until next spring if you think you need to fertilize.

Clearing out the weeds or whatever between the trees and mulching well will be a big plus. No weeds means more nutrients and soil moisture for the trees and mulching will help prevent evaporation, lowering the need for more frequent wateri8ng.


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RE: arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

Thank you. Guys. I think I didn't water it enough. I will do more watering tomorrow.

Here are some more pictures.


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RE: arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

thanks, cadillactaste . I am not going to let the tree get too high. So the fence won't be a problem (finger crossed).


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RE: arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

I uploaded some more pics. Could you take one more look and give me some suggestions?

gardengal48, 15-20 min per tree seems a long time. Do you mean to turn the valve down to the minimal flow rate and let it flow for 15-20 min?

Thank you!


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RE: arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

Ericren...if you go back up and reread her post. She mentions a slow trickle. By slow watering...your watering the roots and not the grass around it...allowing it to water deep. The benefits are great.

Though I would consider what was said about mulching the area and removing the grass. To allow the shrubs a good healthy start without fighting the grass for nutrients and such. Turning along the fence a designated flower bed of sorts...for your shrubs.

I do this 2-3 days...but if I go 3 days without watering...I seem to water a tad more longer...than if I go 2 days. But, I really run it at a slow trickle...my area is slopped and it will run off if otherwise. So I tend to let mine run a bit longer than she does. So only the roots are absorbing water.


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RE: arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

We watered �the tree every evening after 8 pm ever since then (every tree get 1 min watering from normal garden hose in shower mode). He also suggested to use a diluted ammonia solution (1 tbsp. per 1 gallon for one tree) every day during the first week to provide nutrition to the tree.

==>>>

your guy amuses me ... see link.. including proper watering ...

you need to water the root mass planted.. not spray down the leaves ...

your plants are EXTREMELY underwatered .. in the root mass .. see link ..

it is of little use the spray down the greenery ...

and i NEVER spray any ferts on new transplants.. nor on stressed plants... and yours are both ...

read the link

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link


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RE: arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

eric,
Never plant or transplant a conifer in the hottest part of the summer. NEVER.
OMG.
The guy who planted them knows nothing about planting conifers. Sorry.
You literally can't water those trees enough.
They will die. Trust me.
Always wait for cooler weather to plant those trees, decideous trees are different.
You can buy new trees in the fall and water well, and mulch. They will be fine.


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RE: arborvitae turning yellow. transplant a week ago.

gardengal48, 15-20 min per tree seems a long time. Do you mean to turn the valve down to the minimal flow rate and let it flow for 15-20 min?

Yes, that's exactly what I mean. If not using the hose-without-a-nozzle trickle, a soaker hose is an excellent alternative. 15-20 minutes per tree may be long......it is highly dependent on your specific soil conditions. The intent is to have the water penetrate the soil profile slowly down to at least the depth of the base of the rootball. Since the emission rate of a soaker is much lower than that of the hose end trickle, an even longer watering duration may be appropriate.


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