not uncommon for some leaves to be sacrificed.. due to the transplant ... and its usually the oldest.. rather than the growth points....

you really didnt give us any other info .. potted.. ball burlap.. how planted.. how watered... native soil ... wrapping roots ... etc... see link and we can discuss anything you might have done wrong

there is nothing else.. that can happen.. inside of weeks ... not disease.. not bugs.. not nothin ...

ken

Here is a link that might be useful: link

So let's see...the plant was in a 5 galloon pot, we did use some organic soil amendment from a bag (compost, peat moss...didn't know we weren't supposed to do this). Planted correctly according to your link, roots were loosened. No mulch placed around the plant yet. I'm thinking now it may have been overwatered? Especially since it's in shade? Our soil is weird in that when you water it rolls off the soil, but the soil has looked damp before we've watered every time. We are newbies at all of this- as if you couldn't tell:)
Will it recover if we leave it to "dry out" a bit. If it is shock, anything we can do to help??

It's perfectly natural for the oldest leaves to turn yellow before they fall, so I wouldn't worry about this. The most important factor in success with mountain laurel is a highly organic soil with excellent drainage and lots of air space. I'm aware of the "don't ever amend the natural soil" advocates, but in the case of rhodendrons, mountain laurel and some other plants, they are, in my opinion, dead wrong. You want a wide, shallow depression that utilizes a lot of coarse organic matter such as conifer bark, for planting. Planting entirely above the native soil is fine, too. The top of the rootball should be at or slightly above the surrounding area.

As far as the shade versus sun question, it's always a compromise between enough sun to ensure lots of buds and shade to protect the leaves which tend to yellow a bit without some shade. The ideal would be morning sun and dappled shade after noon. Most will do fine even if the site falls short of the ideal.

Mountain laurel can be very finicky. I planted 2 and ended up returning them after doing more research. One of the 2 plants began to yellow like yours, from the bottom up. I did not loosen the roots enough on that one because when I dug it up it hadn't spread out at all. The other had established very nicely and was harder to get out of the ground (and had no yellowing issues).

I would say transplant shock, but if it continues I'd honestly "dig" into the situation. Is it just one plant that is yellowing, or all 3?

All 3 plants have yellowing. I'm a bit reluctant to dig them up and try again fearing it'll make things worse?? But I guess I'll need to if it gets worse?

I'd just leave em alone for now... it sounds like shock if it's all 3. Like akam said, it's normal sometimes for the lower inner leaves to be shed this time of year. If it gets worse and they are looking really bare, maybe reevaluate the situation in spring?

"Transplant shock" is a kind all-purpose diagnosis that really tells us very little. It's also far more common in bare root trees and shrubs than in container grown plants unless they are extemely root bound. Referring to the photo, these mountain laurels look fine. The newer growth is a healthy dark green and shows no sign of wilting or other stress. The lower leaves appear to be going through the natural process of yellowing prior to falling. If you want to check the roots, gently remove some of the soil and stick your finger into the root mass. If it seems excessively dry, water with just a slight trickle from a hose at the base of the plants. Let the hose run for 30 to 45 minutes, then don't water again unless the weather remains very dry for a couple of weeks. Then redo the finger test, etc.

I grow several different varieties in several different exposures and don't find them to be finicky at all, if given a reasonable soil environment as outlined above.
I agree completely with what akamainegrower says. (I usually do :-))
Mike