The efficiency of a soaker hose diminishes rapidly after 100'. In fact, I'd consider 100' the maximum run for a soaker.....you'll get more reliable results if the run is shortened to 50 or 75'. The reason is that soakers are run at a very low pressure (10-12 psi) and that pressure is not sufficient to deliver an even presentation of water all along that length, even with a favorable slope. The plants at the end tend to get shorted :-)

Second, it is also recommended that the soaker circle each tree at the dripline so that the soil moisture is evenly distributed throughout the root zone. They actually make rings of soaker hose specifically designed to circle tree trunks.

The good news is that if you are anywhere in western WA, this is not an issue you need to be overly concerned with for at least the next 5-6 months! Ma Nature is going to make sure your trees have more than enough water during this period :-)

hey mad max .....

MOST cheap soak hoses need to be on FLAT GROUND .... they are not engineered to maintain pressure on a slope .. ending up with no pressure at the top [because the water is moving down hill].. and high at the bottom ...

but for a lot more money.. you can go high tech and get dripper hose that can deal with a slope ...

but when it comes down to it ... it probably is NOT worth the cost.. as trees USUALLY only need supplemental water for the first year ... so why bother with the cost ...

you would be better off.. investing is some good mulch ... and watering ONLY when your index finger.. inserted 2 inches .. indicates that the soil is dry .. or getting hot... which means it will be dry in a day or two ...

also .. i doubt the PNW .. as noted.. will require all that much water for your plants...

you are bordering on abusing them with too much love... with the potential to over water them ... again.. you ONLY WATER WHEN THEY NEED IT .... even in my plain sand.. that might ONLY be every other week the first year.. and only in drought the second year.. free range after that ...

now.. all that said.. if you insist... run your hose for two hours.. and go dig small holes under the hose ... say a foot deep ... AND FIND OUT HOW THE WATER IS MOVING thru the hose.. and thru your soil ....

after 10 years of homeowner irrigation.. let me tell you this.. NO ONE .. anywhere can tell you how water will move thru your system and soil .. but for you ... so go find out ...

again.. never forget.. trees and conifers like to nearly dry .. in between waterings.. and a single deep watering once a month .. stretching thru the whole root zone .... is usually better than 100 surface waterings ... though again.. it depends on your soil ....

good luck

ken

ps: personally just weave it thru the plants... and if you care next year... weave it opposite .. i wouldnt waste the time nor money going around the whole plant ... or.. two lines ... one on each side ... and then remove it all in two years ..

Unlike in eastern North America there is significant annual drought in summer out here. Right in the middle of the growing season precipitation falls off markedly. Soils on water-shedding sites may be rather dry much or perhaps even most of the time. Rain shadow areas around Puget Sound may receive less than 20 inches per year; Seattle gets less than 40 inches. Here on Camano Island I am still encountering dry soil when planting, during a year when the annual fall re-moistening seen throughout the region started much earlier than usual. Even with that variation having occurred the more frequent rainfall of winter is surely going to be concentrated mostly in December and January, because it pretty much always is. We just had a sun break a little while ago, with a cooler period and more breaks in the clouds forecast for the weekend.

Water new transplants during the first 1-2 dry seasons to help them establish

Here is a link that might be useful: Planting Fact Sheet PDF

Thanks for all of the advise. I did just build a new berm with good quality dirt. However I also live on the Olympic Peninsula in the rain shadow. From your comments my soaker hoses won't efficiently water past 100' even with a downhill slope and starting from the top, so I will need to address watering the last 80 or so feet via another hose or drip system. I was told however that I could not overwater these trees and to make sure they had plenty. Granted we are entering the rainy season but we get much less here in the 'shadow' than most. Thanks to all of you for taking the time. Mad Max

From your comments my soaker hoses won't efficiently water past 100' even with a downhill slope and starting from the top, so I will need to address watering the last 80 or so feet via another hose or drip system.

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no max.. that is not what i said at all ...

i said you have to verify the pressure capacity of your hose on a hill ... and then you can come to conclusions about what the others are saying ...

you can not take a hose.. made for flat ground.. and presume that it will put out water for 80 feet.. and then peter out ... e.g. on a hill.. it might only water the last 20 feet.. and not the first 80.. and then where are you????

you have to water and dig.. and FIND OUT ... how your system is working in your location ...

ken

Ok Thannk you Ken. Will do.........after it stops raining. Mad Max