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Hydrangea rootball
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Posted by shapiro 5a Ontario (My Page) on Sun, Nov 15, 09 at 11:21
| I need to move a PG hydrangea - it is now approximately 4 feet tall by 4 feet across. Do you know what sort of rootball I am likely to find? Wide and shallow? deep? If you have moved a hydrangea recently, thanks for information and advice! |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: Hydrangea rootball
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- Posted by bboy USDA 8 Sunset 5 WA (My Page) on
Sun, Nov 15, 09 at 17:10
| Bare-root it. The more roots you get on a plant, the more it grows afterward. Getting lots of roots is more important than getting lots of soil. Cutting roots down to a smaller ball size so the soil ball is manageable is working at cross purposes. The point of keeping soil on roots is to protect the roots. |
RE: Hydrangea rootball
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| This spring I moved H. paniculata 'Limelight' that had been in its spot 3-4 years. I can't recall how intense a move it was, rootball-wise, but I managed it ok and it survived fine and bloomed well this summer. And I'm light on the brawn factor. Mine had been at least 6'x6', heading for 10'. I did cut it back by about half before the move. Also, we had an especially wet and cool May, June, July which helped. |
RE: Hydrangea rootball
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- Posted by bboy USDA 8 Sunset 5 WA (My Page) on
Thu, Nov 19, 09 at 22:02
| Cutting back the top did not assist establishment. Hard-pruning might be worthwhile in this instance for other reasons, but it did not help the shrub's survival to do it. New top and root growth is fueled by energy stored in roots and stems before transplanting, the more stem and root tissue is present upon installation in a new site the more growth the transplant can make immediately afterward. Trees, shrubs and other perennial plants basically hibernate in winter, living on energy stored the previous growing season, using what is left of that to grow away again in spring. |
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