I've added compost; I've liberally worked in worm tea; last year I dug it up and worked in organic soil - still, everything I plant is dead within a couple of weeks of planting, and it takes effort to keep things going that long.

We have a serious ant problem, and my husband thinks that indicates the soil is just devoid of any life. The front of my house looks awful because it's bare and nasty. I really need some suggestions to try again. Thanks.

I guess my questions would be, have you tried to improve it constantly or has it been more hit and miss? Is it more like clay or sand or neither?

Val

And not to be cheeky, but did you water? Enough? Barring any contaminates, even very poor soil will generally support plant life as long as sufficient moisture is provided during their period of establishment.

Otis

I don't know much about cypress, but many trees will take lots of water and nutrients and make it difficult for grass and other plants to grow.

Do you know what kind of cypress it is? I did a little searching and found that there are some that are very drought tolerant and others that live in swamps.

Somebody asked if you're watering enough. Another question is whether you're watering too much. Utah's a desert, but the most lawn problems here are caused by too much water because people overwater.

When I reread it, I had another thought. If you're in an arid area, you may have problems with alkaline soil and/or saline soil. If the bed is right next to the lawn, alkalinity is even more likely due to leaching from concrete.

You might want to get a soil test done to see if there's something that really stands out. I wouldn't try to address something like salinity or alkalinity without first finding out if it's an issue for you.

All good questions previously, and certainly there's a few key indications that need more information from mj_romo before we can 'get a handle' on this mystery...

First, appears that mj_romo is from CA, z10, not Utah.
I'm guessing between San Diego and the Anza-Borrego Desert - in an area with prominent Aridisols with Argids and Calcids as the dominant soil suborders, and likely Entisols with Psamm suborder. Go ahead - google for those.

This is a long-term problem (4+ years). Question is, did any plants grow in that bed previously? If so for how long, and what were the symptoms of decline? How long has the home been constructed? There's a key in the answers.

I'll bet the cypress tree is not the issue at all, even though I don't know the scientific name of the plant yet or know the size/age of that tree - or what the condition of that tree is. Does it appear normal? Or, is the tree 'stunted' - like "something" happened to it?

I remember one instance in Florida where a lightning strike caused such an ionic distubance/imbalance (fried soil) that all other plants died and nothing would grow in a 10' radius - but the tree survived with deep enough roots to grow a new top crown. But that soil condition only lasted for about 6 months.

This is a probably a 'raised or mounded' bed near (but away from) the house, and drains toward the front lawn which slopes toward the 2' bare soil area and forming an irregular (but distinct) line following water movement.

Is, or has the bed been heavily mulched, and if so, with what?

Other plants have been attempted and all died within a couple weeks (that's fast), even a variety of flowers - that says something, not even knowing what species the flowers were. Indicates maybe they were transplanted as seedlings (newly-germinated seeds would not have made it past first true leaves with a serious wilt fungus infection - not likely they were transplanted as mature (purchased?) potted plants with a good soil root base, which could have survived a fungus/bacteria attack for at least a month or more. Could further indicate a severe soil fungus infection if the plants died by wilt - especially if they WERE well watered.

Tea and organically-amended soil says even more to support a fungus theory. If a fungus is the problem, organics may have only aggravated the problem (yes, that's possible under certain conditions).
Plants died within a few weeks despite efforts (we dont know what those were, but can assume were watered - and if foliar feeding was part of that effort - that would support a fungus or bacterial infection theory even further.

Ant infestation will not likely cause the demise of healthy plants, but ants don't usually proliferate in wet bed conditions, so we can guess that there's no watering system installed on a timer in the bed.
But then, it was only stated that a serious ant problem existed - but didn't say there was an infestation IN that particular bed.
Did the ants ever nest in the bed itself, and if so, were they treated, and if so, with what?
Don't know the extent of infestation or what kind of ants they were.
If a colony of leaf cutter ants exists within 200' of the bed, THAT would be a singular explanation for the demise of all the plants - but don't know that - hopefully we'll find out IF plants lost leaves that mysteriously "disappeared" without a trace (defoliation instead of stem/leaf wilting/dropping).
But then, I've never heard of leaf-cutter ants defoliating a succulent - but in southern CA anything is possible...

Cowgirl2, were you just having a 'bad hair' day? That response was not like you...

Val, you're right - the consistency (texture) of the soil could be important.
Maybe it's deeply psamm (Greek for sand) based, with a huge fault-line nearby - an 'endless pit' for water where CA is going to break off and fall into the ocean...(I'm just kidding).

gardengal48, if the home was built 4-5 years ago, and the cypress tree was there before the house was built, and the bed had not previously supported shallow-rooted plant life, you could be right. Could also be a contractor soil back-fill issue.
But if it's an older home, not likely that chemical contamination would be the problem unless there's some previous-owner history available from mj_romo - like, did somebody try to kill that tree with something?

As much as I promote soil testing, I don't think a soil analysis is going to be of much help, and not worth the cost at this early stage. Organic amendments would have provided sufficient nutrients and probably sufficient microbe populations. Probably should ask kimmsr to comment on that...

Don't have any information on which to base a pH guess, but my travels through z10 in CA suggest highly acidic soil conditions - which can exist in sandy soils as well as clay soils, and completely inhibit nutrient uptake if severe enough - but that takes 4.0 or less.

But I think it's not a pH issue - because the indication was that lawn grass 2' from the subject bed was "always" dead, giving the impression that the rest of the lawn was at least 'surviving', and I'll bet there is a visible 'line' in the lawn that sounds more like a soil organism/disease at work - too consistently long-term for it to be an insect larvae problem.

Not likely to be a salt issue unless somebody emptied a saltwater fish tank into the bed - or Paul Bunyan's blue ox Babe happened by with a full bladder...

Anyway, we won't find out unless mj_romo replies with some answers...

Robert

Nobody said the OP was from Utah. I think I'm the only one who mentioned Utah, and I said I live in Utah, not that the OP is in Utah.

"Don't have any information on which to base a pH guess, but my travels through z10 in CA suggest highly acidic soil conditions - which can exist in sandy soils as well as clay soils, and completely inhibit nutrient uptake if severe enough - but that takes 4.0 or less."

We don't know where in CA this is, but if it's in a desert area as you suggest, it's highly unlikely that the soil is acidic. Desert soils are nearly always alkaline, sometimes highly so. This can be exacerbated by proximity to concrete because limestone leaches out of the concrete into the surrounding soil.

I'm going to suggest you get a soil test! I hate soil testing because I think it's a waste of time for the casual gardener, UNLESS NOTHING WILL GROW. That's the case for you. The fact that a cypress will grow only means the soil deeper down has something going for it. Something is wrong in the first inch or two of the surface.

The only soil test lab I like is The Texas Plant and Soil Lab. They have performed miracles for farms and ranches around the world. Their basic test costs $35 and gives you much more than anyone else's basic test. Plus I like the idea that their tests are calibrated against plant uptake tests. Nobody else can say that. Their results will tell you what nutrients are available to the plants, not just what's in the soil. If you ask they will give you suggestions for organic amendments, too. In fact they are really moving forward with organic recommendations - nice to see.

The alternative to replacing the soil is to analyze the soil and amend it to correct its gross problems. If it's caliche, it will need something like gypsum, if it's acid, lime. I don't know off the top of my head what the remedy for saline soil is, perhaps gypsum.

Once the soil is nearer to a neutral pH, it needs to have some protection from sun and wind so that the moisture does not leave the ground.

I've been wrong before - and will be again, 'cause although I don't like to make guesses - I do like to pursue a good mystery (that's what makes me a good field investigator).
And when I do make a faux pau (an oops), it's usually because I'm outside of my local conditions, so dealing with lots more 'unknowns' - but even so, I really DO appreciate somebody "taking me to task" about 'issues'.
Hope you do to (big smile)...
For instance, bpgreen said that often desert sand is alkaline. True. I guess the OP is between San Diego and the desert (I didn't say IN the desert), and closer to San Diego, the sand becomes more acidic. Semantics. We're both just guessing, but it'll be interesting to find out, IF the OP ever provides more info.

I take pride in my soil/compost/plant MG volunteer activities, and although it may sound a bit arrogant, I rarely miss a LOCAL diagnosis, 'cause I've learned NOT to make one - unless and until I know all the facts that pertain, and am ready to propose a solution - and back it up - even with microscopic evidence if needed.

IMO, giving advice based on personal opinions/experience **without having all the facts**, just doesn't 'cut it' when dealing with somebody else's life/death plant issues, particularly perennial shrubs and trees. Which is why I do not frequent some other GW forums. Plant life/death issues are not very common in this forum.
Seen some pretty strange soil/plant issues in my time, and I don't put ANYTHING past Mother Nature.

But do like to record initial observations/theories, then check 'em with the final (proven) outcome. Kind of a 'seat-of-the-pants' intuition "game" I play with myself.

Problem with advising on this forum though, is that rarely is a problem identified to the point that a soil/compost diagnosis can be presented and outcome determined - and especially difficult without seeing/touching/smelling. Photos are sometimes helpful, but without using a loupe, even soil texture is difficult to determine - even using a Jar Test.

When I see a 'mystery' that I'd like to pursue, and the OP is willing to provide in-depth information, I'll make arrangements with the OP to follow-up privately. Because I like solving a mystery.

But, this forum is a lot more FUN than field work, even though we rarely get informed about what was eventually tried, and the results.

It is winter down here too, so things are slow now, even in z9, and I do enjoy reading the variety of topics on this forum, and when things do get busy again - I won't be able to spend as much time here as I'd like - but this is a forum I'll stay in touch with, from now on.

Best forum on GW, thanks to lots of knowledgeable folks that know what questions to ask an OP, and demonstrate that they care enough to spend time and get involved in helping somebody else instead of just giving advice "off-the-cuff" so-to-speak. And there's some other folks that need their 'chain jerked' now and then to 'keep 'em awake'...

So back to your main comment: Now it's my turn to appear to be contrary.
You provided a link, then stated a price.
Click the FEES link on that site, and nowhere on that list will you see a $35 figure. That's an OOPS.
Because you said a BASIC test (Routine - just N,P,K) which costs only $15.
Obtain a 444 (homeowner) Soil Submission form, and you'll see that a Routine + Micro + Organic % test only costs $25. Same for the Texas 494 form.
Although, you could can pay $35 - by adding a $10 Detailed Salinity Test to the submission...

I'm an Aggie. Not an Aggie-Ex, 'cause I didn't graduate from A&M, but I did attend the college, and that makes me an Ex-Aggie, so I have earned 'the right' to say things about the A&M system, and the U. of T. Longhorns (of which, I mostly have good things to say).

I use the A&M Soil Lab much of the time - the majority - but there are BETTER soil labs, both in Texas and in other U.S. states - and yes, the A&M lab is WAY better than LOTS of other state labs - no doubt about that.
And Marshall's post a few weeks ago said it best: '...there are variances in EVERY lab, even from the SAME sample...'.
Fact is, most of the time I don't use a lab test unless micronutrient testing is needed. I can get as good a reading on-site, with a N,P,K "Quick-Test" (such as the Mosser Lee "Soil Master" kit).
And you're wrong on another count too. There ARE other state (and private) lab analysis that DO calibrate against plant uptake (leaf analysis) testing. Want a list?

On the other hand, I'm a certified Texas Master Gardener through the A&M AgriLife system, and I'm not supposed to say anything 'bad' about the TAMU system.
So I won't - except they're not perfect either.

But will tell you that I do mostly agree with author and radio show host Howard Garrett (www.DirtDoctor.com) - with whom you are quite familiar - being a 'regular' poster on his site (although his forum is not what I would call "active")...
So will refer you to Howard's words about his thoughts regarding A&M's 'position' on organic gardening.

I have asked A&M for organic recommendations - and been ignored every time, and have NEVER received even one comment back, even when I enclosed a LETTER with my form asking for specific recommendations. Those folks do NOT communicate well at all (based on my experience), and I'm a Master Gardener, and 'supposed' to have some 'pull' there.

You say they are "...really moving forward..." with organic recommendations - don't know where you 'saw' evidence (other than words?), but if you can SHOW me, I'd like to know.

AND, I'd also like you to substantiate your comment about
"...what nutrients are available to the plants..." because that's a 'new one' to me - Have not seen any A&M soil sample analysis report comparison of total nutrient in a sample, compared to the available (to plants) nutrition, and would especially like you to show me any quantatative values applied to such a comparison.
Please scan your soil analysis report with that information on it, and send it to me by email, so I can thank you for educating me.

Robert

And while we're throwing out all these assumptions, I'm gonna assume a) the cypress is an Italian cypress, Cupressus sempervirens (dead common in SoCal); b) she could live anywhere along the coast from Santa Barbara south to San Diego, but not very far inland.....once you hit the foothills and move much distance away from the ocean, that zone 10 drops to a 9 pretty fast; and c) her soil will likely test more alkaline than acidic. Soils that are cultivated and regularly irrigated in SoCal tend towards alkalinity because the irrigation water is alkaline.

I'll have to go to the Texas Plant and Soil Lab site again. The company founder died recently and his son took over. Apparently he overhauled the prices, because they only had one price for years (and years). For that you got all the tests you mentioned. I based my comment on them moving forward on organic recommendations on the new president's call in to the organic gardening radio show on KTSA 550 on Saturday morning about 5 weeks ago.

You say you don't like to make guesses but two sentences later you reiterated your guess that the OP was from San Diego or further inland. I think gardengal is closer to a good guess than you but we all remain in the dark on that.

If you have names of other soil test labs that calibrate with plant uptake, why not just post them and be helpful instead of making me beg for them? I had one date with a girl who was very needy. We'd be driving down the road and she'd moan. I had to beg her to know what she was moaning about. This might be my last reply to you, too. You introduce more issues than you resolve.

Testing for nutrients available to the plants is a new concept to you? And yet you say you know of labs that calibrate their soil tests to plant uptake? Those are the two tests that are calibrated against each other. I would suggest you use some of your off time and drive to The Texas Plant and Soil Lab to learn what you're talking about. The concepts are not within the scope of this thread and they take a lot more than a few sentences to describe.

I've never heard anything good about the Texas Master Gardener program. There have been groups split off from them simply because TAMU is so unresponsive.

Note that this entire reply was to soilguy and really has nothing to do with the OP's situation. That's what I mean about introducing more issues than you resolve.

I deserved some of that...comes from too much time on my hands during winter months - noticed that condition is more prevelant the farther north one lives.
You do live north of me, right?

You and I both have some 'set ways' - comes from having great-grandchildren, I'm told. Although my wife likes to call it "progressive maturity"...

I can tell that you're an intelligent fellow, and are recognized as knowledgeable in this forum, and it's nice to see that you don't 'get your dander up' when somebody disagrees with you...Or 'calls your hand' about something you stated. But, we must agree to disagree, nonetheless.

And yes, I've been to Edinburg, and visited the TPSL, and they are nice folks, and they produce good reports, as do many other PRIVATE soil labs in this state.
Each to his own, and maybe somebody will benefit from using that private business as a result of your 'plug'.

Yes, the tree is also mis-called cedar too, and there's various (unprintable) other names given to it by Hill Country ranchers/farmers who hate that tree.

And we are both guilty of half-reading and reading 'between the lines'. And both of us need to work on getting better at that (snort).

And regarding your comment about "...introducing more issues than you resolve" - I certainly have to agree with you about that - since without further information from the OP, there isn't really anything further to talk about on this thread, other than "what if" assumptions, and you and I entertaining folks, no?

Now, see - there you go again saying:
"I've never heard anything good about the Texas Master Gardener program".
Dang, here I'm a Texas Master Gardener (as you very well know from my GW Profile), and there's a Master Gardener Forum on GW, and I've stated in at least 5 posts on this forum, that I was proud of the MG volunteer work that our organization does (which I'd be willing to bet you've read at least one of 'em)...
And so you go "askin' for another volley" by saying such things about a great organization. Tsk, tsk...
What can I say - you just want to help 'entertain' folks on this forum, right? You're a sly one, Mr. Grinch...

Robert