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| Basically I'd like to make my own homemade fertilizer recipes.
I'd like to customize the fertilizer to the needs of what I grow, which is basically any kind of vegetable. I've done some research, and found out this...... Fruiting plants (eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, melons, squash) require a fertilizer high in potassium and phosphorus Leafy green stuff (lettuce, spinach, chard, etc.) require a high-nitrogen fertilizer Root veggies(carrots, beets, turnips, etc.) require a fertilizer high in potassium and fertilizer I've found some fertilizer recipes online, I'm just wondering if they're valid? By this I mean, reliable, and will meet the needs of the plant they're being used with. Here are the recipes: Recipe #1 (designed specifically for tomatoes) 16 cups seed meal (most common ones I've found are cotton seed meal) 2 cups dolomitic lime
Basic Organic Fertilizer Mix: ~~ For use at planting time or side dressing for all types of plants ~~ 3 parts blood or fishmeal
The following specially formulated mixes are fast acting and work well when used at planting time and as side dressings. Although these balanced mixes will generally give desired results, soils do vary. You can experiment and find what works best for your soil. Generally, the fertilizers are applied at the rate of: 1/2 cup per transplant, or 5 pounds per 100 square feet or 100 row feet. High Nitrogen Mix: ~~ For plants that are grown with the leaf or follar structure as the edible part ~~ 4 parts blood meal
High Potassium Mix: ~~ For crops that are grown with the root or tuber as the edible part ~~ 2 parts cottonseed meal
High Phosphorous Mix: ~~ For crops that are grown for the fruit or seed as the edible part ~~ 4 parts steamed bone meal
For the tomato fertilizer, could I also use it for eggplants and bell peppers, since I've been told they have similar nutritional needs (with fertilizing) as tomatoes. |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| This is good for the year you plant tomatoes in bed 1. When you plant lettuce in bed 2. When you plan beets in bed 3. But next year you need to rotate the crops & the fertilizers, to slow disease & bad buds. This can be done with heavy feeders, medium feeders & lite feeders. So over all your beds need a balance & you will need a soil test to get you started. |
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| The only way to know what your soil might need is with a good, reliable soil test. Adding quantities of any nutrient may unbalance the soil nutrient levels and create more problems then it would solve. Putting nutrients into your soil that are not needed is not only a waste of your money but may cause yields to decrease, plants to be more susceptible to plant disease and insects which can cause you to spend even more money on controls. |
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- Posted by kawaiineko_gardener 5a (jesusbeloved29@yahoo.com) on Tue, Feb 8, 11 at 14:15
| I alreay know what's in my soil because I make my own. I mix my own batches for container gardening. When I tried to use a commercial dry fertilizer last year, it was very high in nitrogen and low in potassium and phosphorus. As a result, my root vegetables didn't grow well at all; I got good leafy tops, but skinny spindly root portions that weren't even edible. Also with my fruiting crops, such as squash, they really didn't do well either, and I'm just guessing that part of it had to do with not being adequately fertilized, and not getting the nutrients they need too. I didn't overfertilize, all I did was add the amount of fertilizer that the recipe I used specified. I didn't fertilize later in the season. I don't like to use just a generic fertilizer for all plants, because different vegetables have different needs with the nutrients they need and in what amounts they need those nutrients. Not to be rude, but although the advice offered was helpful, and thank you for it and taking time to post it, it didn't answer my original question. That was if the fertilizer recipes provided are reliable. Below is the soil mixture I make up and use for container gardening. With the exception of the micro nutrients (which I didn't add because I couldn't find) I followed the recipe below exactly: 2-3 cu ft pine bark fines |
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- Posted by minnieoaka (My Page) on Tue, Feb 8, 11 at 15:11
| The recipe "number one" above is from a well known mag. One of our community gardeners wanted us to buy all these ingredients in bulk so we could use. But our beds test out in the higher range of neutral (tending toward alkaline) and this recipe is a bit lime intensive for our situation. But, then again, does the bone meal acidify? Also, where to find the cottonseed meal that is from organically grown cotton? If anyone knows, please tell me. |
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- Posted by kawaiineko_gardener 5a (jesusbeloved29@yahoo.com) on Tue, Feb 8, 11 at 15:59
| http://www.amazon.com/Cottonseed-Meal-7-2-2-50-lb/dp/B00025H2MM The link above is from amazon; you can buy cottonseed meal from there. You'll have to manually copy and paste it |
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