Results pH: 7.3 Phosphate: 370 Potassium: 640
Other:
Soil pH
(shaded area is acceptable pH range for most vegetables)
4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Shaded area below represents the level of nutrients in the area tested.
Phosphate
0-25 (Low) 25-100 (Medium) >100 (High)
Potassium
0-125 (Low) 125-250 (Medium) 250+ (High)
Recommendations:
pH: The pH is high for some vegetables. Mix 1 pound of sulfur per 100 square feet into the soil during
the fall or before planting in the spring to lower the pH. Pelletized sulfur is easier to work with than the
dust.
Fertilizer: The levels of phosphorus and potassium in your soil are high. Use one of the following
fertilizers at the recommended rate.
Iron + (11-0-0) at 4/5 pound per 100 square feet
Nitrate of Soda (16-0-0) at 3/4 pound per 100 square feet
Ammonium sulfate (21-0-0) at � pound per 100 square feet
Urea (46-0-0) at 1/4 pound per 100 square feet.
The fertilizer should be worked into the soil before planting.

Seriously, they've made some fairly safe recommendations. I have a couple of quibbles with county extension (and university) tests in general. First, many of them don't provide information on secondary and micronutrients. Elements like calcium, magnesium and sulfur are important and can be limiting factors in crop production. Second, their recommendations are almost always geared toward the "feed the plant" philosophy. There's nothing inherently wrong with this. However, there is an increasing awareness of the benefits of sustainable "feed the soil" gardening and the aforementioned institutions are doing a disservice to those who wish to go the "organic" route.

I'd not be overly concerned about adding anything recommended since those numbers are very common with almost every soil test from the Extension Service and are pretty minimal amounts.

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.