So...it comes to the lawn.

Originally I was just going to cover with newspaper and cardboard and cover with the raised beds...but since I can't get the raised beds this year...we are stuck with the problem of all the grass.

I know that tilling isn't good for the soil, however I figured tilling the sod into the soil this ONE time would be better than digging it all up, thus removing alot of the good soil along with it.

What do you guys think? If I don't till...what other option is there?

Thanks

there has been lots of chat about this subject in the g/w forums. for me it no-till ever.

so our pages for pic's and descriptions on how we do it.

len

I am in the Denver area of Colorado. Planting season is in about 1 & 1/2 - 2 months away so I don't think the layered newspaper will work for now (though I will remember to plan further garden space with that in mind).

It’s a nice lawn, however it’s bluegrass which I’m allergic to, and eventually it’s all going to be removed anyway. This isn't about keeping the lawn, it's about getting rid of large portions of it in a friendly way (no chemicals). Hopefully in the process, not totally ruining the soil structure, which is why I asked in the soil forum…because I want a healthy soil to plant in.

If the sod was flipped over to decompose (rather than tilled in) would it be decomposed enough come planting time given the cold rotten weather here in central Colorado?

If I just dug up all the sod and flipped it in a corner to compost, would my soil be puny and lacking in organic matter given that the top 2 – 3 inches are gone?

Thanks,
Laura

Have you read the threads about lasagna beds? One typically puts in whatever organic material that can be obtained free into their raised beds. You put that down over cardboard on the ground. Horse manure, OPBL (other people's bagged leaves), fine wood chips, and old produce make up the bulk of mine, plus compost and/or dirt from elsewhere in the yard on top for the planting medium. Whatever is available free in your area, get some! In the fall I got about 40 bags of OPL and stockpiled what didn't go into my newest bed.

If you want a framework to the bed and not just raised soil (I have all mine contained) you use old boards you have lying around, or you get bricks or boards or what have you via freecycle or craigslist. Hopefully you are making compost all the while as well, that makes an excellent top layer for immediate planting into. Or buy just a smidge of soil to put on the top for immediate planting, or just wait a few weeks for the stuff to rot somewhat.

Some people put purchased items in, because they are not nervy or creative or persistent enough to get all the stuff free. But really there is no need for that unless you live in the desert far from any cows or horses or whatever.

Marcia

I roto-tilled the lawn for my first garden. None of the grass resprouted, but the area basically became adobe since it had the clay soil base. A carpet of purslane appeared in the garden to try to protect the 'soil', but I did not know enough to let it be, or to harvest it for salad greens.

Next I tried double digging. It works, but it is labor intensive. If I hadn't had a pickup truck to collect organic matter, it would not have been as successful. The addition of organic matter (leaves gathered around the neighborhood in fall, manure, etc.)and the aeration raised the ground level 12 to 16 inches over a few years.

What ever you decide it is going to be tough going if in clay since the topsoil measures an inch (2.54cm) or less. I had occasion to dig down 10 feet (3.05m) at this same location and the clay was just as hard to excavate at depth, and only became lighter in color.

I suspect that the easiest way to get rid of the grass is to solarize it under a sheet of clear plastic. I had a remodeling job where a large pane of glass was removed. It was inclined it against a tree, but wind laid it over onto the grass. We didn't get to it immediately, and I don't recall how long it was down, but I do not believe it was an hour. The next day the grass was brown where the glass had been. Some experimentation would have to be performed to ensure the process fried the roots as well.

Terran

2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up.

3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart.

4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer you soil will smell.

5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy.
to better know what you do have.
You could till organic matter into your soil, once, but repeated tilling can be real harmful especially once the soil is made good.

Ideally, you would plan these beds well in advance of planting season - 6 months is usually considered an optimum timeframe. Not sure exactly when planting season may be in your area, but you are looking at probably at around 6-8 weeks before inground planting of edible crops in Colorado. So no, simply turning the sod, expecting it to decompose sufficiently and being able to plant into it this season is unlikely. Scraping off the sod and stockpiling to start you own composting process is a great idea but still leaves you with a less-than-ideal planting situation. The soil underlying sod or turfgrass is typically rather compacted, often lacking in nutrients and organic matter and poorly draining. It needs some help. Obtaining some OM in the form of purchased (if you cannot find any for free) compost or well-aged manure and working it into the soil initially (the one-time till method - seldom disputed as effective and non-disruptive in establishing new planting beds in a residential context) will work. And it is well worth the investment. Bite the bullet and buy what you need. If budget is an overriding concern, start small this season and plan ahead for next season.

I have taken a more experimental approach, partly because we had the luxury of time (started 10/1 for 5/1 planting), and partly because of interruptions in our work schedule due to weather. You can strip the sod and use it as "bricks" to create a temporary berm while you build up the soil. I found this to be useful on a steep grade before we had the hardscape materials in place. Also, here in Colorado there are abundant supplies of horse manure from multiple sources. Most people put an advert on Craig's list, I happened to have a person with a horse ranch on our Landscape committee. So long as you have plenty of other meterial (grass clippings, shredded leaves) to mix with the horse manure, it is fantastic for converting the sod because it contains the necessary microorganisms for decomposing the tough root systems in the grasses.

Moisture is the single biggest issue in Colorado, and that will also slow down the decomp of the sod. From 10/1 - 12/15 I recorded very slow rates of decomp, despite plenty of warm days. After 12/15, on the days that I could actually get access to the area due to snowcover, the decomp accelerated greatly. Even with 4' of snowcover amazing things were happening to the lasagna beds!

If you started now, you could probably have something plantable by June. But you would have to constantly monitor the moisture levels. Decomp should speed up with increased temps. If you are working on a space that is not in public view (not a front lawn!) you might have the luxury of building up the beds as much as possible now, planting a "green mulch" cover crop over summer, turning that green mulch in the fall and adding a substantial layer of leaves, grass, and other materials to overwinter. Takes longer, but in our climate might produce better results.

Probably the biggest reason people garden in raised beds is increased productivity - one is able to double crop yields in a raised bed garden. But there lots of other reasons why these are so popular and it has nothing to do with drainage:

* The growing season is extended - the soil in raised beds warms up faster in spring and retains that warmth longer in fall, increasing the harvest period.

* Raised beds are easier to maintain. Intensive planting allows for less weed development and what weeds there are are easier to reach and remove. Since you don't walk on raised beds there is no chance of soil compaction, which destroys soil structure and reduces yields.

* Raised beds allow for less water usage than open cropping, a huge benefit for those that garden under drought conditions or summer water restrictions.

*Raised beds are a huge boon for aging gardeners or those with physical impairments that prevent bending, kneeling or heavy digging. And since raised beds are typically accessible from both sides, they are able to be tended with very lightweight handtools.

* Raised beds offer the opportunity to control plantings - either by restraining overly aggressive spreaders or by placing plants beyond the reach of pests like rabbits (very easily fenced off).

* Since the soil in raised beds is imported, one is more able to adjust soil for specific growing conditions than you can in open plantings. They are ideal for growing acid loving plants in areas with more base or alkaline soils, as pH in raised beds is more easily adjusted and less buffered.

* In addition to offsetting the drainage issues involved with heavy or clay soils or low areas where water may accumulate, raised beds allow the possibility of planting in other less-than-ideal conditions, like where there is a preponderance of tree roots or the soil is extremely rocky or sandy.

Posting a very narrow and very personal view on the reasons for utilizing raised beds is of no benefit to anyone on these forums. We all need to a bit more openminded and receptive to possibilities beyond our own narrow frame of reference.

I live in Lakewood. If you are going to build a raise bed I would also build a composter. I built a 3 bin composter last year and love it. That way you can be constantly adding the compost you make and in a short while build up some decent depth.

A faily cheap manure that all the garden centers sell here is steel manure. They usually sell for a buck per bag.

As far as tilling or no tilling that's like asking if you should add sand to clay soil...a loaded question. I have always tilled with no problems but the lasania approach does sound very interesting, but I doubt that it would be quick enough for a spring planting. Personally I would till it and plant but I'm sure some would object.

~Yago

Curse you bind weed!!!