There is no difference between pelletized lime and powdered lime. They are essentially the same. The 'prilled' product is simply powder mixed with water and a binder, then shot from prilling towers. On the way down, the blobs of muddy lime form little spheres as they fall and harden into balls. This is only so they will work better in broadcast spreaders, and the binder dissolves when the pellets are wet.

Container media are all about structure, with what they are made form being much less important than whether or not they hold a favorable volume and ratio of air and water. The nutrient part is easy.

Perlite will be a much better choice because it actually decreases water retention, which you'll surely want to do in your proposed mix. The problem is, you really don't affect flow-thru (drainage) rates or the ht of the perched water table by adding perlite unless it's a significant fraction of the soil (>60%). Vermiculite would increase water retention and be counter-productive.

I think you'd be closer to being on a track that would allow you the success you want, if you started with a large fraction of larger particles, like pine bark fines, and added enough peat or compost (10-15%) and perlite to give you the water retention you need. These well-aerated and free draining soils are MUCH easier to grow in and offer the grower a much wider margin for error when it comes to watering and fertilizing.

Al

I don't know about other vegetables though.

I'm curious what you use? Peat has worked fine for me in 12" unglazed ceramic containers. I add compost and "moisture control" peat mixes. I went days between waterings with the aforementioned 12" pots subjected to western exposure. Where I have had the most problem is with coco lined containers exposed to wind (daily or twice daily watering required). The water holding capability of coco is nonexistent if exposed to convection, and wind is ubiquitous here.