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| I posted this over in the tomato forum, but was referred here. This is my post from that forum....
Sent out my soil samples, priority mail, on Feb 29 and the results were in the mail today. PH is high, but phosphorus and potassium are above optimum so not sure how I should fertilize for tomatoes and veggies, I had planned on using plant-tone and tomato-tone. These are raised beds, 3 years old, I garden organically. Ph 6.6
They recommend 2 lbs Nitrogen per 1000 sq ft with a side dressing of 3 lbs of 10-6-4. Organic content is high and they recommend no compost or wood ashes for "some time", guess my fireplace dumpings will have to find another home next winter.... I will be growing tomatoes, beets, squash, beans, broccoli, lettuce, herbs to name a few. There are already shallots and garlic planted from the fall. Thanks in advance for any responses!!! |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| My, I did a double take as the top 4 items are identical to those of 'sue,ct6'. My suggestion is to use a moderate amount of Plant Tone which is 5-3-3. Beets like sweet soil so I would sprinkle a light dressing of wood ashes in that row. I hope you can get a less confusing summary than sue did. |
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- Posted by sandra_zone6 (My Page) on Fri, Mar 9, 12 at 21:53
| Yes, I noticed that after I posted here. Wonder why? Is it skewed soil testing from UCONN? I may search out another testing lab to run another test. |
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- Posted by fortyonenorth 6b (My Page) on Fri, Mar 9, 12 at 23:08
| I did a double take as the top 4 items are identical to those of 'sue,ct6' Maybe they only extract to a certain point - hence the 'greater than 4000 lb.,' 'greater than 500 lb.' etc. Sandra - I'm surprised they consider a pH of 6.6. "high" - I'd say it's darn near ideal. In terms of their advice, I think it's sound and you'd do well do follow it. If you want to use TTone, broadcast a bit of extra nitrogen - say 3 lbs. instead of 2 lbs. - and then side dress with Tomato Tone as directed on the package. |
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- Posted by sandra_zone6 (My Page) on Sat, Mar 10, 12 at 7:26
| I sent in two samples; one from the beds where the tomato plants will be set, one from a mix of the remaining beds. The tomato beds came out with a ph of 6.6 and the other beds as 7.1. When I mailed them in I identified my beds as residential veggie gardens with a note on what I was growing in each sample and that I use organics. There is a handwritten note written on one of the computer results that vegies normally like PH as 6.0 - 6.8 and to discontinue use of lime or wood ash (I dump my fire place ashes in my garden after they are cooled for 2 - 3 weeks and I burn pretty much 24/7 during a normal winter) and to not add any compost or manure for "some time". Looks like based on what you are telling me, I am not in terrible shape, I will just keep an eye on what I add this year and will follow their recommendations to add extra nitrogen. Guess I better get working in that soil! Yeah!!! Thanks so much for taking the time to read and respond!! |
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| A soil pH of 6.6 is within the optimal range of 6.2 to 6.8 that most plants need and where most all soil nutrients are most readily available. The 2 pounds of N per 1,000 square feet and 3 pounds of the other stuff, are fairly infitisimal amounts and are what they recommend as a matter of course. There is probably no need for any more "fertilizer" of any kind, unless you like to just throw money away. Most of these soil test labs think any level of organic matter above 5 percent is high while 6 to 8 percent is considered good by many of us organic gardeners, Perhaps these simple soil tests can be of some help. 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. A good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. |
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