All lbs/Acre

Phosphorus 29
Potassium 264
Calcium 2673
Magnesium 316
Organic matter 2.0
Cation exchange 10.2

Saturation
% CA 65.6
% Mg 13
% K 3.4

Also,
I did the test in the spring and will be adding in 3000 lbs of composted manure. Any thoughts on my test and what I will need if anything. I have a complete fertilizer (organic) that I will be usind to side dress or dig in with the plants. Thanks.

With low OM, you'll need to add nitrogen (amount will depend on your crop) and, if it were me, I'd use a little triple super phosphate, but otherwise, I think you're in really good shape.

Hopefully others will weigh-in as well.

As for amounts to add, you are kind of shooting in the dark on N in view of the manure. Did the soil test give you any suggested amounts? Usually it will say so many lb of P per acre, and you can do the math with whatever product you have to determine application rates. If they did not recommend anything you might ask them if they can.

that's just me.... I'd add the manure too, plus any other compost I could get my hands on- truckloads of it.

That said, what are you doing with it? 10000 sq ft will feed a lot of people... Maybe you could grow part of it amended as well as you can and grow cover-crops on the rest to boost the organic matter. If you already have cotton seed meal keep in mind it may have an acidifying effect on your soil. It shouldn't be an issue though.

I agree. 6.1 is darn near ideal, so I'd forego the lime for now. The manure input may bump it up a bit, so better to re-test in the fall or next spring and reassess where you are.

So, since I need nitrogen and phosphorous, how about cotton seed and rock phosphate equal parts which i will use to did in near each plant or side dress since it would take an awful lot to apply even to the whole soil (10,000 sq ft. )Or is that to much phosphate and would a 4-1 nitrogen to phosphate ratio work better?

In terms of nitrogen, you're looking at a total of roughly 70 lbs. per acre considering the manure, organic matter and fish bone meal. This is plenty for legumes and probably sufficient for short-season greens and the such. For crops like corn, tomatoes, peppers, etc. you'll need to supplement with additional nitrogen - let's say an additional 40 lbs./acre. If you're using cotton seed meal (6% N), you'd apply 666 lbs./acre or roughly 166 lbs. for your 10,000 sq. ft. If you opt for blood meal or feather meal (12% N) you'd use half that amount.

Your test shows that you are deficient in phosphorus - 29 lbs. is barely enough to cover your next crop (in many cases). Does it report phosphorus as actual P or does it say something like "as P2O5"? There's a big difference; P2O5 is only 44% actual P. In any event, you'd do well to get your phosphorus reserve up over 100 lb/acre. Your 3000 lbs. of manure will give you 28 lbs. actual P, so let's say you need to add an additional 75 lbs. actual P per acre. The fish bone meal is an excellent option - it's 28% P2O5 (roughly 12% actual P). You'd need roughly 150 lbs. for your 1/4 acre. BTW, I wouldn't worry about the raccoons. If you have them around you're going to have problems with them regardless of how you amend your soil.

While hard rock phosphate could be a good option, with your current P deficiency, I don't think you could add enough economically. If your rock phosphate is labeled 3% P (P2O5), you'll get only a bit more than 1% immediately available phosphorus. Even though I generally advocate the organic approach, in your situation you might consider banding triple super (0-45-0) at the recommended rate. It'll cover you for the next crop while you build your P levels through manure and other phosphate additions.

Carey Reams advised a 7 to 1 calcium to magnesium ratio. I would not add dolomite. He also advised a 2 to 1 phosphorus to potassium ratio. I feel that that much phosphorus is high, but what do I know?

Rock phosphate isn't really intended for side-dressing IMO. First, as I mentioned above, it has very limited immediate availability. Also, it's very immobile in the soil - in other words it's going to pretty much stay wherever you place it. I'd recommend that you broadcast and till under. If you really want to side dress, use the triple super.

In terms of trace elements - that would come from stuff like the kelp meal, greensand, etc. Many Illinois soils are deficient in boron and copper, but I wouldn't add these unless indicated by a soil test.

Yes- your cover will add organic material, as much from the roots as the top growth.

Wayne- I'm still learning but wouldn't the rock phosphate, fish meal and azomite bring enough calcium to the party to offset the magnesium in the dolomite? The analysis I'm looking at says 8.5% MgCO3 and 87% CaCO3 ... Then again the greensand has 3% mg too... Maybe I overdid... Just asking.

"Wayne- I'm still learning but wouldn't the rock phosphate, fish meal and azomite bring enough calcium to the party to offset the magnesium in the dolomite? The analysis I'm looking at says 8.5% MgCO3 and 87% CaCO3 ... Then again the greensand has 3% mg too... Maybe I overdid..."

I was asking if what I said I'd do if it were MY land was a bad idea, if I may have steered you wrong. I said 50# of dolomite and wayne said he wouldn't add dolomite.

I'm not an agronomist; I'm simply speaking from experience. If you add 10 lbs. of 12-12-12 per 1000 sq. ft., that's a total of 100 lbs. of fertilizer for your 1/4 acre. 12%, or 12 lbs. will be the "P" component - P2O5. As I mentioned above, P2O5 is only 44% actual phosphorus, so you're really only broadcasting a bit more than 5 lbs. actual P. In organic gardening the long term goal is to build P levels. But you can't do it overnight. Banding the triple super will satisfy this year's crop. Hopefully, when you test again, you'll see a P increase from the manure.

And, do you have a better recommendation that 12-12-12, maybe 10-30-15?

Frankly, I'd just broadcast nitrogen alone and skip the K (I don't believe you need it) and the P (if you plan on band applying the triple super).

As an aside, I Googled the Territorial Seed fertilizer recipe and found an article by Steve Solomon, the former head of Territorial. It was well-reasoned and, I thought, very good. One of the points he made was that the fertilizer was designed for a hypothetical soil where no nutrients were present - in other words, designed for a "blank slate." You're not in that situation. You have a fairly well-balanced soil, with a deficiency of P, organic matter and, perhaps, micronutrients. My advice would be to focus on these and don't worry about following the fertilizer recipe he prescribed.

If the cost of banding the 1/4 acre with super is too high for me, would side dressing as you said be an ok option or will that not be enough? For example, if costs prevented me from using super and instead I went ahead and used a synthetic, would side dressing with super along with the synthetic be enough phosphorous? I am finding super at about $12 per 4 lbs which could be expensive if I use it on the entire 1/4 acre, so I am looking at an alternative way to get the phosphorus up this year as going completely organic is way to costly this year. Thanks for all your help.

The label on Bonide's triple super says use 8 oz. per 100 sq. feet of row. Figure out how many row feet you'll have and then buy the TSP in larger quantity - check with a larger garden center, nursery or farm supply. My local GC has it for roughly $75 for a 50 lb. bag - though you'll probably only need about half that amount.