LovingLight:

So the landlord hired this lawn guy I assume? Yes you should definentely get a shower filter! You breath in more chlorine and other harmful substances in the few minutes you shower than you do drinking the water! I have a aquasona shower filter and it works great.. I advise you to get a better drinking filter as well.. I would be telling you this if I didn't care for you! I was going to get a reverse osmosis, but money is tight, so I went with aquasona.. Still it filters out close to 99% of the majority of pollution.. If you have the money, I would get a reverse osmosis water system for drinking, and just a good shower filter.. You could even buy a whole house filter, but that runs thousands! I personally don't think you could but a price on your health.. U didn't know you were renting.. That's a whole different ballgame.. Boy, that sucks! Im so glad I got out of the damn apartments I was in..

Feojious: what's the CROCK? You act like I'm advising her to pour pounds of woodash on her garden, that's not the case.. Minerals are all alkaline in nature.. Our plants need minerals, as well as we do.. Azomite is merely volcanic rock that has tons of trace elements in it.. Woodash is simply ash from hardwood.. Yes woodash does have a liming affect, if you apply it as lime.. But if you are using such a thin dusting just for trace minerals, there is nothing to be concerned about.. My pH is 6.5 and it still is 6.5.. It's when you apply to much of it.. Which a little common sense goes a long way... All I'm advising her to do is build up her soil with lots of compost, add some minerals to it, mulch and plant! What is the CROCK about that? Im talking from my experience.. I'm not leading her in the wrong direction..

Kissmer: yes soil testing is important.. It's particulary important if you are adding tons of strong synthetic fertilizer,etc.. I'm just letting her know what I would do.. Soil test or not, compost and organic matter, in more cases than not, is beneficial...

Joe

lol at these dudes. If you listen to them, you would wonder how all the green grows on the earth with the help of nobody. Soil test, correct according to test, plant in full sun, water, sidedress as needed, control weeds and insects, harvest diligently and put out pest deterrents. These guys want you to go broke growing and build these massive compost piles that are great for keeping the soil loose and helping the plants take in nutrients but provide very little nutrients . Again look around, most everything grows just fine without these guys. I am tempted to turn a garden and grow it next to near my usual and not do anything but plant and water and compare. You are wasting time and money listening to all of this. One guy told me i needed 200 lbs of fertilizer when a doctor who runs a lab told me I need 30. According to their advice, the earth was a desert before they came around, lol. you got these massive trees in forests that get nothing but sun and water and grow, doubt we need all of what these guys recommend to grow a 3 foot plant. Forums have wrecked gardening and this place reminds me why I do not come in them often.Again, look around dolts, there are massive trees larger than anything you can grow and they did not need your help...you are ridiculous!

This post was edited by HendersonsPF on Tue, Apr 2, 13 at 11:52

So things only grew in Utah before people bagged the stuff!

PnBrown:

You make a very good point and I'm happy your concerned... In the majority of gardening cases, organic matter (compost,etc) and a pinch of minerals for remineralization and mulch is what every gardener strives for.. I an not telling anyone to go pour pounds of woodash or fertilizer or anything for that matter onto their garden.. You make it seem like a am giving these people bad advice that will ruin their gardens.. I am merely telling people to apply compost with such a minute amount of minerals and mulch.. I don't see any problem with that? I think i give very sound advice? In general, most gardens needs remineralization and organic matter... If you apply the two responsibly, and use common sense, i dont see how it wi harm any garden..

Joe

Henderson:

This is coming from a man who was just asking how many pounds of chemical fertilizer do you need for your garden! You were just telling me off saying that compost has very little NPK.. Guess what - composts is what fertilizes the giant trees that you talk about.. To say compost has very little nutients is ignorant.. Most compost is made from tree leaves and plant matter, the same trees you see in the forest, hundreds of feet tall, imagine
the tap root of these giant trees! Trees tap deep in the earth and pull up all kinds of minerals, and there is a trace amount in its leaves.. Undone advise anyone to spend much money on their garden.. In fact, I don't think i spent
even $50 bucks for amendments for my soil.. I get compost for free from the city, making compost costs nothing at all by the way.. And I mulch with leaves and woodchips i get for free.. Before you go calling us ridiculous, understand what we are trying to get across.. And to say these gardening forums ruins gardening, that ridiculous.. If you don't like these forums, go elsewhere.. We are a helping community here.. We don't need negativity.. Henderson, I think you need some loving light my friend..

Joe

This post was edited by Raw_Nature on Tue, Apr 2, 13 at 12:23

the compost pushing behind the claim of correcting NPK issues is driving me mad and reeks of agenda pushing. 0.5 across the board with compost fellows. You want to push it, then push it for the correct reason. My response was to this section in general. Recommending compost to correct NPK is wrong, especially a large deficit.

yeah, asking for calculations advice, what does that have to do with anything fallacy king? Yeah I am going chemical because I have over a half acre and sell it all, going organinc would be too expensive and composting for 17,000 square feet is not realistic. Compost does not fertilize you, o.5 across the board Einstein. The more you guys state that compost fertilizes, the less credibility you have. compost does not fertilize or provide NPK. #clueless

Henderson:

Go apply your dozens of pounds of chemical fertilizer, till it up real nice, see what you'll be growing.. You'll be wishing you used compost! It's not the mere percentage or quantity of the nutrients in th soil, it's the bio- availability of those nutrients to the plants.. Understand the basic soil foodwed/structure before you call anyone ridiculous..

If thes forums were so ridiculous and ruin gardening, why would you post a question and hope to get an answer to fertilizing your whole entire food plot.. Why would you ask us(who you claim are ridiculous) about one of th most importan things for your garden - the initial soil care... Go on now..

Joe

I asked before I read through and what did i get? A recommendation for 200lbs of fertilizer, lol. Sounds like you are butt-hurt over chemical fertilizer. Dont worry lib, I live out in the country near nothing or water, so you can relax. Again I sell, and going organic would not be profitable or feasible for my plot. Do you know how much compost that would take? Again, listen carefully. There are people in here recommending compost to correct NPK and to fertilize. I know what it does, but listen to exactly what my point is. Compost is NOT a fertilizer, case closed. Sorry if it hurts your agenda.

I was asking for a calculation, not advise, and, par for the course, the answers were wrong and people could not figure out how to open a link. This is not my first garden, I have gardened for years, just not this large so I needed a calculation. Chemical fertilized gardens to excellent and I would put up my yield verse anyones. what do you think farmers with 100 or 1000s of acres use. You think they compost or or add what you call for? Look at the grocery shelves, chemical fields do just fine, agenda boy.

"Again look around, most everything grows just fine without these guys."you got these massive trees in forests that get nothing but sun and water and grow, doubt we need all of what these guys recommend to grow a 3 foot plant" Quote by Henderson

Henderson, your right everything grows all around us without us.. What does nature do - drop it's leaves and other plant matter and it gets composted into the soil.. That's all the plant get in nature!! Compost! I am just telling people to speed up the natural composted process and apply it concentrated to the garden... Then you go on saying you are planning on soling pounds of chemical fertilizer, you contradict yourself! If nature doesn't need us, why the hell would you apy chemical fertilizer - it's not even found in nature! And your giving us crap about using nature fertilizer - compost? You sound foolish.. Go apply your chemical fertilizers, you'll be growin some real tasty food!

Joe

So you are on record stating that compost is a fertilizer. Thanks, all I needed to here. I am correcting because I want a maximum yield because I sell it. I contradicted nothing, my entire point was that compost is not a fertilizer and you just said it was. Again, glad to have you on record stating that.

"Compost in not a fertilizer"
http://www.the-compost-gardener.com/

" Compost is a soil amendment, not a fertilizer"
http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07212.html

"compost is not a fertilizer"
http://www.emilycompost.com/garden.htm

You, sir, are an idiot of the highest order..

I would rather be a compost idiot, than a chemical/synthetic fertilizer idiot! What does nature fertilize with? You see birds spreading chemical fertilizer and pesticides in the woods.. How does everything live without the chemical fertilize you so desperately need or "highest yield".. You sure got allthe answer for the first year with a food plot! You go from saying were idiots for having here spend her wallet on all the crap, and you on stating nature doesn't need anything, plants grow all by themselves.. Then you go saying your spending money on pounds of chemical fertilizer.. Whatever floats your boat.. I'm just trying to help you as well as the people eating the chemically produced vegetables.. Compost does a little bit of everything - nutrients,microorganisms, water retention, mulch,etc,etc.. Tell these old timers that grow world record 30 foot tomatoes that compost is not fertilizer, you need chemicals.. They well laugh at you!

Joe

I just ordered an extra bag to dump on the field just for you. Plus I will liter from my car tonight :)

Henderson:

I'm not trying to fight with you.. I'm trying to educate you, if you take the blinders off and open your mind..

Check out "how to grow world record tomatoes by Charles wilbur" he grows 30 foot tomatoes that yield hundred,if not thousand of pounds off one plant.. The only thing he adds to the soil is compost!

Here's a link of a man who doesn't fertilize nor water his garden and check out his garden.. It's all about the mulch, compost and soil..

Joe

Here is a link that might be useful: Sustainable organic gardening

Funny, comparing trees to annual crop plants. There is no comparison. Regarding compost, certainly it has NPK, but nothing like the concentrations of manure not to mention synthesized salts of NPK.

Joe, I'm simply asking for you to disclose how much actual experience you have in growing food. Not foraging, but horticulture.

Ok.. that's enough everyone! Let's be nice to one another, agree to disagree, play nice..whatever. Just please stop the negativity. Let's move on already.

Anyway...I called the lawn guy. He is coming over to look at it and discuss it with me tomorrow. I took some soil samples to a couple local nursuries today to get their opinion on how the "soil" looks. They all agreed it is just chipped up wood....and it's mucky because it is not draining well. Well, we will see what he has to say for himself and what he can do to fix it. If I don't like his answers or plans I will do it myself. I I wish I had just made a raised bed! uggghhh!!
THANK YOU everyone for all of your help. I'll keep ya posted.

LOVE & LIGHT to you all!!!!!!!!!!!

I forgot to mention I already called and found 3 places that will deliver to my house -organic compost at reasonable prices (for adding to the crappy wood chip muck... so I have a back up plan! yay!

Lovinglight:

The picture of the soil after you raked it up and on th close up looke like nice and rich soil.. He is just a lawn guy right? He just comes there to cut your grass real quick, make quick money, and get out of there.. He was probably just getting the cheapest stuff he could find.. He doesn't care it's not his garden.. He's just a lawn guy after all.. He did get you decent conpost or whatever, be grateful he didn't pile gravel up on your garden! I wouldn't blame the yard guy.. He really didn't do nothing wrong, did he? I don't want to say it your fault, but if you want it done right have you and your husband do it.. The yard guy could care less about your garden.. He's not eating off it, he's just wants to throw some dirt and get money.. I think what he did bring is half decent.. I would just more less fire the lawn guy kindly, on a good note.. Then have your husband do everything.. All you really need is another yard or two of compost... I wouldnt be too concerned.. Youre doing great! No worries!

Joe

I apologise for being part of derailing this thread, it was rude!
I must explain my outburst though: I get pretty frustrated when people make sweeping statements that to me are too generalised, and could be harmful.
For example, "a little" wood ash is a pretty non-specific amount, and while I can only judge from my experience with ph 6.8-9 soil, I just think that kind of advice should include caveats about raising ph, potash etc.

I'm sorry I don't measure out tablespoons of woodash.. I apply a very light dusting occasionally.. I apply such a minute amount there is no way it could be harmful.. Speaking from experience my pH stays a consistent 6.5... Woodash does gave a liming effect, but it takes more woodash than it does lime to drastically change pH.. Besides you have to use woodash like lime if you want a liming affect.. I am merely putting down such a trivial amount it only add trace elements without drastically affecting pH.. Feihious even if i has soil like you, i would still apply woodash as info now.. You have to balence risk with reward.. Risk-elevating pH messing up soil, but that is not a risk if you apply very small amounts! Reward - healthier soil, plants and you.. Loaded with trace minerals,etc.. Azomite is more than a buck a pound.. Woodash has lots of trace elements for free!

Joe

"I apply such a minute amount there is no way it could be harmful.."

Probably then not mineralizing much either. Foaija's point is correct, the alkalinizing effect of woodash (which is quite strong but short-lived) is undesirable in high-ph soil. However, in most of eastern north america soils are acidic enough to take some woodash on a regular basis. The point is that one needs to have some sense of the ph to start with, rather than use so little that it won't effect ph (or give any stimulus to plant growth).

Right, know your pH or have a rough idea.. I think even just a little bit of woodash is better than none.. Some minerals are better than none.. Plus you don't want to cause any inbalences in the soil.. I would use azomite or kelp if I have the money to blow, but it's not cheap.. PnBrown - what do you use to remineralize your soil?

Joe

I am using azomite now, Joe, because I bought a bulk quantity. I have numerous gardens to be mineralized, plus I plan to run some side-by-side tests in the fields of a friend who operates a CSA.

In the past I have used seaweed intermittently, and I have used some more local rock dusts. Unfortunately the most local rock sources seem to be of little value, which is not too surprising since the geology of the area lends itself to soils of poor quality for horticulture. This is an island, and the nearest valuable mineral sources are off the island, so as you can imagine the normally high cost of moving them is even higher here. Seaweed is not as easy to get as one might suppose, because the beachfronts where it accumulates are not easily accessible for vehicles, plus it piles up in storms and then is covered again by sand pretty quickly so the window of opportunity is short.

Just wondering if Loving Light removed the weed barrier ?
I still think that is the most important thing she could do for her garden.

pnbrown, the reason I suggest UMass is because afaik they have the best prices in the country for soil tests. Extension services funding has been drastically cut all throughout the country, and it is my understanding that the ten dollar soil test is a rarity in most parts.

Raw Nature, you sure love your wood ash even on that other thread where the soil test indicated that adding wood ash was not only completely unnecessary but a bad idea due to excessive calcium levels. Let's remember that wood ash IS dumping chemicals on the soil. It doesn't have to be "synthetic" to cause harm. You could only apply compost, boost your OM content to 30%, and pollute the watershed with the leaching from all that organic matter.

HendersonsPF, yes, people grew crops before soil tests, they also polluted the land and water with over application of fertilizers both organic and synthetic. Most of us know better now and hopefully make decisions to lessen our impact on the land. A soil test provides us with valuable information towards thst end.

also, those ferry morse test kits are junk.

Yeah, I found that out yesterday when I tried to test the mucky wood chunks (not calling it soil anymore). I think I'll try to return the test kit. What a joke that was!
I found a place 10 miles from here that will delivery organic planting soil (and they have the soil tests online which look great). I'll probably add 4 yards, till it in and be done with it all. There's no way I can remove the weed barrier/lining. There is 6 yards of mucky wood chunks on there and I cannot physically do it myself - removing it all, taking up the weed barrier and then putting the 6 yards back in. We have georga clay in our yard and it does not do well with water, it sucks it all up, turning to clay like you would use to make pottery and it runs off, down our driveway. Unless someone wants to come volunteer time or suggest someone who wants to make a couple bucks to come with shovels and a tiller, then I'd be happy to remove the liner. Unfortunately I don't think it can happen right now. uggghhhh I really realllllly wish I had just done raised beds. :(
Live and learn I guess...

Love and Light to you all.
And thank you all so much for your help and comments. I do, truly, appreciate you taking the time.
Best,
LL

i may have misinterpreted your post hendersonspf to be that a soil test was unnecessary. on a second reading it seems like you are advocating a test so nevermind.

I just looked at the bill he gave us. It said OPS (organic potting soil) that he put in the garden. It must have been cheap stuff because it's mostly bark or wood that's in it. Hardly any soil/dirt.

Potting soil in a garden? Potting soil is normally more expensive than garden soil.. If I may ask how much was the bill? Don't worry to much Lovinglight, your going to have a bountiful garden no matter what... You mentioned that younfound a local place to deliver soil.. How much a yard you paying for that soil? Don't want you getting ripped off..

Your doing great, no worries,
Joe

He charged $50 a yard!!!! For crappy mucky junk. grrrrr
(He probably included labor in that because he didnt charge labor separate)
I found http://www.georgialandscapesupply.com/products/SoilReport.pdf
they have organic planting soil for $30 a yard. Really nice looking stuff! If I get some of that and hand till it in a bit it should be fine then and then I can just transplant my babies in the soil and away we go!
I may post an ad in craigslist to get some guys (there is a college near us and I'm sure some students would like a few bucks in their pocket) to move the dirt into the garden for me. There. Solved. :)
What do you think of the soil reports? Look good?

He charged 50 bucks a yard for that! It should have been virgin glacier soil for that much! $30 for that organic soil seems pretty reasonable.. If I was you, I wouldn't till it in your clay.. Well you can't till it in your soil with the weed fabric down can you? So what do you plan on tilling, Just the lawn guys junk with the stuff your getting delivered? You could.. But with a bad back I wouldn't worry about it.. I would have your husband rake that wood mulch off and then just dump that compost you're getting delivered.. If I was you I would really have our husband pull up that weed fabric, everyyear your going top put inputs in the soil and is only going to get heavier.. Without the weed fabric the soil you getting delivered in will work in the native clay soil overtime and you would have very fertile topsoil.. Without tilling! I never till my soil I always just add compost,etc to the top of the beds! Instead of hiring people to shovelcompost to your garden, since they are delivering it, can you just have them dump it in the garden, so you don't have to deal with moving it.. I have a lot more tips for you for your garden, just don't want you to get overwhelmed.. We got to keep in touch.. I'll help you out when your garden progresses..

Joe

" Lovinglight, your going to have a bountiful garden no matter what..."

Well, that must be a relief to know! Makes one wonder why she needed to come here and ask questions though.

I'm trying to start my first raised beds as well...
I'm a little confused about what seems to be the interchangeable
use of the words organic mulch, organic soil and organic compost.

You said the gardener told you it was organic compost~
Billed you for organic soil ??

I had told him I wanted Organic Soil for the garden bed with hard wood chips as a mulch on top.
He ended up installing (and charging me for) "Organic Potting Soil" which has way too much wood in it and no soil (you know, the nice soft fluffy stuff you plant things in)and Shredded hardwood "mulch" that was pretty much large chunks of partially chewed up wood.

Mulch =anything you use as a top layer covering over your soil
soil= dirt
compost= decomposed things like manure, worm poo, grass clippings, leaves and even kitchen scraps.

Hope that helps you. Just a verrrry basic description so please, noone rip me apart for it. Feel free to correct me as I am no expert and freely admit it.

I wish you the best with your raised beds, forboystoo!! I wish I had done raised beds!

Love and light to you!

Forbiystoo: organic just means not synthetic.. It is as close to nature "natural" as possible.. It does not have synthetic chemicals.. 10-10-10 synthetic fertilizer is not organic, it's man made in a factory using chemicals.. 3-2-2 organic fertilizer is made with manure, compost and other things in nature, not man made.. In general, organic fertilizer,etc works more synergistically with the soil, feeding the life in the soil, in turn feeding the plants,and improving soil structure.. Chemical fertilizer does not work with the soil so much, it is solely made for the plant, it is normally made to give the plant a boost, without much benefit to the soil.. In fact a lot of chemical fertilizers even damage the soil.. They are high in salts,and harsh Chemicals, and it damages soil microorganisms, and even disrupts the delicate balence in the soil... In my opinion, organics are more sustanable and highly superior to chemical fertilizers..

compost - Is decomposed plant/animal matter..

Soil - the earth, top soil.. When you walk in the forest and dig, you are digging soil, top soil(soil that is on top (4" or so)..

Mulch - anything that lays on top the soil.. Mulch is used to retain moisture, smother weeds, and other benefits for plants.. When you walk in the forest and see leaves on the ground, that is mulch... Common mulches are: leaves,straw,grass clippings. Anything that sits on top of the soil...

Manure - is well animal litter... Gardeners normally compost that with leaves and other plant matter until it is decomposed then we call it (compost, or composted manure).. Fresh manure in general is not good to put in the soil without composting.. It is to high in nitrogen and could burn plant and it also risks contaminated the garden soil with pathogens,etc..

Now compost or manure, if applied on the topmof the soil, can be called mulch as well.. Because it is on top the soil..

Lovinglight: no worries, you could still do raised beds no problem! Most people use structures to contain the soil like a big container, but you don't have to.. You could just mound up the compost and it serves the same as a raised bed.. You could always get wood and make raised beds and fill them with the soil you get delivered.. It's not to late!

Joe

"When you walk in the forest and dig, you are digging soil"

Joe, I'm curious, why is it ok to do that in the 'forest', but not ok to turn over sod in one's backyard?

So true pnbrown! I still like Raw_Nature's positive tips!

Pnbrown:

I was using the digging forest soil merely as an example.. Turning soil/ sod,whatever is not a sin.. I mean your not going to go to fire for it.. There's no police thats going to arrest you for digging.. The majority of agriculture digs.. If you want to dig, dig on.. Do I advocate digging, no.. Do I dig my garden no.. Does digging have benefits and risks, yes.. Do I believe that no till is more sustainable and better for your soil in the long run, absolutely.. Do other gardeners disagree, absolutely.. Every grower has their own method and opinions.. From mine as well as many others experience no till is the way to go.. For acres of genetically modified monocrop corn,soybean,conula,etc tilling might just be the way to go.. Do whatever floats your boat.. I am advises people to do what I believe is best for their soil as well their plants in the long run...

Joe

Still no answer to the direct question: why is it fine to disturb soil in a forest, but somehow it's a bad idea to turn over sod in an existing lawn so as to create a garden?

A garden is a much better use for yard than a lawn. For those of us who have been raising food on a multi-family scale for years, it is obvious that turning sod is a realistic way to make it happen. Covering large areas with imported materials is not realistic. Covering sod heavily and rotting it out is a good strategy for small areas when one has thought sufficiently far ahead. People trying to start gardens in April do not have the time.

Pnbrown:

Who says it's ok digging Forrest soil? In the other thread I mentioned that I do take topsoil out if the woods for my garden, but my garden I never till.. I am taking small amount of topsoil maybe a few buckets full.. I am not digging up the whole forest for my garden... Maybe large farms it is unrealistic... But for us small gardeners i believe it is superior! If the large farms had the money I'm sure they would do it as well! Most farmers do till in manure and other amendments.. So they already are importing large quantities of amendments.. The only difference to my method is you aren't tilling it in, you are leaving it on top of the soil and planing in that..

Now you mentioned covering sod with soil is a gold idea is you planned ahead, but it is unrealistic for someone wanted a garden in April/may..

I cannot disagree with you more.. Tilling is much more labor intensive and inconvienent than merely piing up soilnandbcompost in a raised be and planting? Why couldnt you use my method and and plant in April/may? In fact i think my method is alot easier, quicker, convenient, better for the environment and better for the soil..

Joe

Ever since I have added leaves into soil and planted some Cannas on the spot the Cannas grow only have the size. Last year I discovered a white fungus growing in that spot and it is spreading through the whole flowerbed with different flowers stopping them from growing to the full size. The Georgia Univers. did not respond to my problem after I sent a soil sample. Someone gave me the advice to spread some lime. I do not know what to do. Anybody have an idea??

Ever since I have added leaves into soil and planted some Cannas on the spot the Cannas grow only have the size. Last year I discovered a white fungus growing in that spot and it is spreading through the whole flowerbed with different flowers stopping them from growing to the full size. The Georgia Univers. did not respond to my problem after I sent a soil sample. Someone gave me the advice to spread some lime. I do not know what to do. Anybody have an idea??

Wisteria: the white fungus is probably mycellium...you can think of Mycelium as roots, and it produces mushrooms, the fruit.. Although mycelium would not harm your plants.. My thought is that when you add something high in carbon, or brown material(leaves,straw,etc) into the soil nitrogen in the soil will actually be used to decompose the high carbon material, in your case leaves.. This will temperarily tie up nitrogen until the leaves are decomposed.. That is why your canna was only half the size, it only had half the nitrogen it would normally have without the leaves using all the nitrogen up.. It's best to get high carbon matter(leaves,straw,wood chips,etc) on top of the soil as a mulch.. Google pictures- mycelium and let me know if looks similar.

Hope this helps,
Joe

PS: you'll get better answers making your own thread

Learning lots from this site. Looks like I unwhittingly screwed up my garden last year by tilling in my oak leaves before I planted. I thought I knew everything about gardening. It was so easy with the black rich mid-western MN soil I grew up with. Then I moved to WI and nothing I ever learned before applies to this sand/clay stuff they grow plants in here. My tomatoes were half the normal size, my carrots were stubby, beets and radishes had no bulbs. I had almost no rasperries, strawberries were tiny and malformed and the growing season for melons was about a month too short and the only thing I had plenty of was acorn squash. I have to start all over trying to get stuff to grow here. I can't seem to get enough home produced organic material to get this soil properly prepped. Looking for a truckload of composted manure I guess. Any suggestions on something simpler?

Fairy:

You did not mess up that bad... You could easily correct your problem.. Just don't go adding anything without knowing what your doing.. I would make a raised beds an keep building up the soil with compost and rich topsoil.. Also a nice thick layer(few inches) of mulch(leaves,etc) would do wonders.. Look for free compost, the city often gives out to residents.. It sounds like you just need nutrition, minerals and good old organic matter... I would stop tilling your soil and start building your soil.. Research: cover crops, no till raised beds, remineralizing soil,etc.. Your problems easy to fix, if you jump on it now, don't let it go out of control..don't hesitate toast questions.. Ill be more than happy to help you.

Best of luck,
Joe

Fairy:

I highly advise you to watch this video link below. I feel it will help you out tons...

Joe

Here is a link that might be useful: Gardening

" Just don't go adding anything without knowing what your doing."

That is pretty ironic coming from someone who has recently advised making raised beds from highly acidic native soil dug out of a MA woodland, without any time or amendments to remediate, or any knowledge as to whether that soil is sand or clay or what.

Just go for it, blind, or directed by some guy a thousand miles away!

On the topic of "organic":

Raw_Nature wrote:

"Forbiystoo: organic just means not synthetic.. It is as close to nature "natural" as possible.. It does not have synthetic chemicals."

There are two kinds of organic when discussing soil and gardening. This is one. I prefer to call it Organic to distinguish it from the other one.

The other definition has to do with soil organic matter (OM). With a small "o". When a gardener (like the OP in this thread) asks for "Organic Soil" it is usually referring to - and virtually always sold as - soil with plenty of organic matter (compost) added, intended for gardens. You will not find Organic (as in no chemicals) soil for sale at the average nursery, I don't think. Most people operating Organic farms, for example, would be opposed to selling off their certified Organic soil.

Just so we keep our terms straight.