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| I was planning on doing some Beets, carrots, etc that like a soil without rocks so I actually went to the trouble of buiding a sifter box and removed all the rocks bigger than 1/4 inch.
The soil is high in clay I'm afraid and now I'm worried that it will settle down into something harder than even before over time. Should I be adding in additional sand possibly, or also some organic matter like hummus, compost, moss, etc ?/ thanks for your help, Scott |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| Have you done a jar test? How much is the clay compared to the other components? You should also do a soil drainage test if you haven't already. Just google 'soil drainage test' to find instructions. If it really is very heavy with clay, you can build raised beds for drainage and in the beds, incorporate plenty of peat moss to improve tilth. Once you've done that you can just keep it well mulched. You could also build raised beds and fill them with a sandy soil mix for your crops that need very light and fast draining soil. Removing the rocks didn't hurt it but excessive working of the soil can damage the soil structure. Don't work it when wet, only when it is sort of moist but not sticking to your garden tools. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Jar Test for Soil Type
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| If you use sand, you will need at least 50%-75%. You can add compost humus or a combination of the two. |
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| No sand. Add organic matter like compost. |
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| I cannot be sure where you are, in the United States in zone 4 says nothing because that covers a wide range of soils and growing conditions. However, if your soil is clay, clay soils do not have a high clay content they are clay, then what it needs is lots of organic matter. Sand will do nothing for you and as previously noted you need to add 45 to 75 percent sand to clay to make enough difference to matter, and that sand will not help with soil nutrients like organic matter will. These simple soil tests may help, 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. |
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