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| Hello. I mean to send a soil sample to "Stratford Agri Analysis" soon. They have a number of test packages available. Which of these packages do you recommend? They have seven different tests available plus a bunch of extra options. Which soil testing package should I purchase?
http://www.stratfordagri.com/soil.htm |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| If this is for general grass/ornamental/garden use, I'd be happy with #3. Unless you live in an area with KNOWN deficiencies of certain minor elements or unless you are growing a crop with specific micro requirements, then I'd not worry about those options. For example, if you are testing for your Pecan orchard, you should know the levels of zinc. If you are testing in a location that has long been used for a garden or harvested crop, and might have been a bit abused, you could opt for #5.
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| I would also make sure to get the correct phosphorous test. If you tend to have acid soils in your area, you'll want to switch out the bicarbonate phosphorous and have them use the Bray P1 method instead. If the soil in your area tends to be alkaline, the bicarbonate method will be best. Use the wrong method and your phosphorous value will be utterly useless. If it were me, I would also pop for the $5.00 total soluble salts value. It's pretty cheap insurance since it can help you spot a potential (and relatively common) issue and address it before it becomes a problem. |
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- Posted by toronto_girl_zone_6 (My Page) on Thu, Jun 9, 11 at 16:36
| Actually, I'm looking at a newly sodded lot from a builder. Nothing has ever been planted in it. The soil content is completely unknown. I intend to plant a couple of roses with companions and spring flowering bulbs. Nothing to be harvested... purely ornamental garden. With that in mind, should I still go with SAA3 + Total soluble salt + Bray P1? I apologize, I should have mentioned what I intended to grow in the area. |
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| I still think salt content would be a good idea. Roses tend to be more salt sensitive than a lot of other stuff, like vegetables. Some turf species are also pretty salt sensitive. (while others have pretty high tolerance). As far as the method for phosphorous determination, maybe check in with your local retail nursery to see if the soil in your area is typically acidic or alkaline. |
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| SAA 1 is more than adequate for us gardeners. Most of the others are for commercial operations with more specific requirements. You can add to that soil test these simple soil tests to learn more about your soil. 1) Soil test for organic matter. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains� too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. |
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| Roses are pretty expensive, but bulbs, and native plant seedlings are not so pricey. You could plant some of each, in your unknown soil, amended with either compost or peat moss, and wait for results. I suspect that there is some significant clay content in your soil, and the compost will help to raise that level of organic matter. Just be sure to mix it in thoroughly. What is the condition of the recently sodded lawn? |
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