Thanks
Sam

IMHO, there is really no such thing as "greens" and "browns". Since everything is both C and N, in different rations, you might be better off to think in terms of the overall ratio of C/N rather than "greens-to-browns". I don't get really scientific about my composting, but thinking this way certainly helps me out. For example, some things (like paper) are VERY high in carbon, and very little of these things can go along way in adding carbon to the mix. I think the trick is simply keeping it well mixed and making the pieces small when you add it, and going for the overall ratio. JMO. ;>)

To further clarify my above post:

If you figure your average kitchen waste is 20:1 (C:N), the you’re going to add paper, just one 17th of the amount of kitchen waste in paper will bring your estimated C/N up to somewhere in the range of 30:1 (175/17 = 10.29 + 20), so if you’re adding paper, just remember -- don’t add very much at a time.

You mentioned evergreens in your area, which would be an excellent source of carbon. At 80:1, you would need 8 parts kitchen waste (assuming 20:1 for kitchen waste) to one part foliage (going by the chart for pine needles), or 1/8 the amount of evergreen to 1 part kitchen waste. I wouldn’t get any more scientific than that, but to each his/her own.

…Wow, I’ve been adding a LOT of carbon, LOL! :>0

I know it wasn't part of your question but be mindful when one gets a recomendation of "30 times as much Carbon as you would Nitrogen", is the person talking by weight, by dry weight, by volume or what. This can lead one astray pretty quickly if one isn't careful.

Lloyd

I can live with that description, given that it is an actual definition of what is a "green" and what is a "brown". I've never heard it explained in exact terms, so I just figured it was arbitrary.

> "...is the person talking by weight, by dry weight, by volume or what. This can lead one astray pretty quickly if one isn't careful."

Very good point. My math wasn't exactly correct in my two examples above (esp. the second one), regardless of whether I was using weight or volume, so I wanted to point that out, as well. Sorry :<(

Not knowing the answer to this, I would ASSUME...that the proper method would be by weight, with similar moisture content of the various parts, after further thought, but please, nobody quote me on that...

Prove it. Where is the documentation that composting paper will "counter the process"? I've yet to see ANYTHING to lead me down that road. I compost lots of glossy pages along with my cereal boxes and whatnot.

Of course I'm a renegade, I compost meat and dairy and bread too, the horror!

Be careful using some advice given on this forum, it may set a person up for a disappointment.

Lloyd

If you do a good internet search you can find goverment reports on paper composting with testing for heavy metals
you will also find a organic farmer composting and testing several tons of cardboard and paper sorry I saved the links on another computor but will find them if anybody is truly interested

The ratio of C:N in a compost mixture is figured on a dry weight basis -- I looked it up.

This means that, if all you're composting is grass and leaves, and grass has a C:N of 20:1, and leaves has a C:N of 60:1, and you're shooting for an overall C:N of 30:

You need two parts grass to one part leaves to get to 30. Very simple (20+20+60)/3=33.3.

Let's say the weight of the grass, dry, is 60 lbs., then you need 30 lbs. of leaves to get a C:N of 33.3 in your pile. This is a very simple example, but that's how it's done.

The ratio is figured based on the dry WEIGHT of the various parts. Look it up if you don't believe me.

As for volume, I'm sure there would be more leaves, because they would likely weigh less (not sure), but you don't go by volume (if you're trying to figure the ratio).