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| Here's my background:
Summer 2010 was my first season gardening in the ground. It's been a very exciting experiment and a lot of hard work! We put in a 15x20 foot plot and divided it with walking paths into 6 smaller plots. Because we had just moved into the new house, our garden went in quite a bit later than I would have liked... Not until mid-June or so. Because of this, we also didn't really have the opportunity to work with the soil much before planting. We used a sod cutter to remove the grass from the lawn, and revealed very compacted and pretty polluted (children's toys, candy wrappers, metal bars, various plastic items... you name it) soil, complete with gross looking grubs galore. After the sod was removed, we poured on some compost and tilled it in with a roto-tiller. After this, it was onto planting. I purchased tomato, broccoli and pepper plants from the farmer's market and transplanted them, and grew (or attempted to grow) collard greens, romaine, white onion, squash, zucchini, cucumber, mesclun, melon, soybeans, and snow peas. (I know it was a big undertaking for my first attempt... I'm all or nothing!) The squash, zucchini, melon, and cucumber were attacked by an evil bout of powdery mildew. Peas and soybeans didn't stand a chance against the rabbits! Collards did pretty well, romaine seemed stunted and then toward the end of the summer grew tall, long and lanky... Not really appetizing. Broccoli grew long and lanky too, no florets, just long stems. Orange bell pepper only produced 3 peppers all season. Cayenne, banana pepper, and jalapeno did well, save for some yellowing leaves. Since we've had some unseasonably warm weather, we've been out working in the garden periodically over the past couple of weeks. I decided to try adding some organic matter to the soil this fall, and see what effect this has come spring. We loosened up all the soil (we have a high clay content so it compacts quickly) and added compost and leaf mold. Before I mixed it in, I noticed I still had a bag of an iron supplement I'd purchased over the summer (for the yellowing leaves)... I decided to add it to the soil, too. I sprinkled it all over and used a pitchfork to turn the compost, leaf mold, and iron into the loosened dirt. In retrospect, I'm not sure this iron was such a great idea! I guess I was caught up in the moment with my garden adrenaline pumping, and I didn't really think before I added it. Does anyone know if excess iron in the soil can be a problem for veggie gardening??? If so, anything I can do to negate the fact that I've added it? Removing it is obviously not an option =/ A couple of specific questions: We have a lot of spotty sunlight throughout the day in our back yard, which we can't do anything about because it is caused by our neighbors' gigantic trees. Any advice on vegetable gardening in these light conditions? Would it be beneficial to add earthworms to our garden soil? We have some, but not as many as some forums/advice articles are saying indicates "healthy" soil. I know we have a lot of clay in our soil... Would adding worms help loosen this up? Any other ideas on how to amend clay soil that doesn't drain well? I thought about adding sand, but then I read it would make cement!! Thanks for reading... If you have any advice or tips after learning about my experience so far, please feel free to share!! I'm really looking forward to getting our garden in the ground earlier next year and taking advantage of all the work we've done to the soil. :) Namaste! |
Follow-Up Postings:
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- Posted by borderbarb San Diego county (My Page) on Tue, Nov 23, 10 at 0:25
| The only thing I can advise would be to please keep a journal to document the things you WILL learn with every season. Re: the filtered shade ... that's what I live with, also. Which means you will learn to push the envelope of accepted practices for any given plant, as you learn about the part of nature you have been blessed to work in, and learn from. Hope your neighbor's trees don't send roots to 'dine' in your garden soil. That's a bummer! BTW .. you gave a good back ground of conditions, but might help to give your state/region, for that makes a difference. I think that as you continue to add organic matter to your soil, the population of worms will increase. But it is fun to do a bit of vermicomposting to hurry things along. The link below is to my favorite site for learning and fun. Really chirked me up to read through the lines how enthusiastic you are ... in no time you will be a composting whacko .... happy gardening! |
Here is a link that might be useful: Red Work Composting
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- Posted by dottyinduncan z8b coastal BC (My Page) on Tue, Nov 23, 10 at 2:33
| Now you give a lot of information about what didn't grow well, but what did? I love your enthusism and you have to enjoy your successes as well as learn from failures. But really, when you are a gardener, there are no failures, just "experiments" and you began this year with a big one! Well done for your first year. The winter time is a great time to learn and plan. You now have some insight into the problems in your site and can plan accordingly. Have fun! |
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| As the humus (residual level of organic matter) in your soil increase so will the number of earthworms as well as the resat of the Soil Food Web. Contact your local office of your state universities Cooperative Extension Service about having a good, reliable soil test done for nutrients and soil pH and then dig in with these simple soil tests, 1) Structure. From that soil sample put enough of the rest to make a 4 inch level in a clear 1 quart jar, with a tight fitting lid. Fill that jar with water and replace the lid, tightly. Shake the jar vigorously and then let it stand for 24 hours. Your soil will settle out according to soil particle size and weight. For example, a good loam will have about 1-3/4 inch (about 45%) of sand on the bottom. about 1 inch (about 25%) of silt next, about 1 inch (25%) of clay above that, and about 1/4 inch (about 5%) of organic matter on the top. 2) Drainage. Dig a hole 1 foot square and 1 foot deep and fill that with water. After that water drains away refill the hole with more water and time how long it takes that to drain away. Anything less than 2 hours and your soil drains’ too quickly and needs more organic matter to slow that drainage down. Anything over 6 hours and the soil drains too slowly and needs lots of organic matter to speed it up. 3) Tilth. Take a handful of your slightly damp soil and squeeze it tightly. When the pressure is released the soil should hold together in that clump, but when poked with a finger that clump should fall apart. 4) Smell. What does your soil smell like? A pleasant, rich earthy odor? Putrid, offensive, repugnant odor? The more organic matter in your soil the more active the soil bacteria will be and the nicer your soil will smell. 5) Life. How many earthworms per shovel full were there? 5 or more indicates a pretty healthy soil. Fewer than 5, according to the Natural Resources Conservation Service, indicates a soil that is not healthy. |
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| The vast majority of my 1.25 acre lot is partial sun, because of numerous large trees which create a sort of open woodland (savannah). I have already had large trees removed twice - mostly Norway maples - awful invasive trees that are near impossible to garden around. Tree work is very expensive and messy, but this has enabled me to garden in the back yard. While many perennials and some annuals grow well under partial sun conditions, not many vegetables do. So I would recommend watching your lot closely for at least a year and using the sunniest location possible for a veggie garden. I am resigned to carving out sunny spots (6 hours sun or so) and growing a few tomatoes and cucumbers, some herbs and occasional other veggies, as well as the sun-loving annuals that the butterflies and hummingbirds adore. These do pretty well with a minimum of 5-6 hours of sun. But I would love to grow much more and have a terrible case of gardening envy of people with lots of full sun. :) |
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- Posted by nutsaboutflowers 2b/3a (My Page) on Tue, Nov 23, 10 at 11:24
| Please, someone correct me if I'm wrong. Your list sounds like a lot of plants for the size of your plot. Your powdery mildew may have been partly caused by your plants being too crowded and some may not have grown as well as they could have because of being shaded by other plants. (BTW Powdery mildew can be helped by spraying your plants with milk and water.) I agree that you could watch where your sunlight is during the season, and adjust your plantings accordingly. Trial and error, but fun nonetheless. When you're planning, keep in mind, for instance, if you plant carrots and peas side by side, peas grow up and carrots grow down, so by the time your peas are finished and removed, there's more room for your carrots =:) Start a compost pile now if you don't have one. You don't need to add earthworms. Build a proper garden and they will come =:) During the winter you could read on these forums to learn almost anything you need to know. Your enthusiasm is half the battle. Just remember gardening is all about learning what works and what doesn't in your own individual situation. |
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