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| Hello everyone,
I was hoping someone here might be able to help me make a plan for the retaining-wall my husband and I are building. We've had drainage issues since we moved into this house. The back yard slopes down toward the house and our basement has flooded several times. We just had it waterproofed last year and now we're trying to divert water away from it so as not to challenge the new waterproofing system any more than we must. We're dealing with plenty of water. When they installed a new sump-pump they also had to put in a new outflow. It was making my back-yard and side yard a soggy mess so I dug a meandering stream bed for it to follow and installed a fountain. That helped, but the slope was still aimed right toward the house. So we started the process of excavating to create a slope away from the house last week. As you can see, everything now slopes toward the bottom right side of the picture above and we've trenched it all the way to a nice sized hole in the ground (as my darling assistants demonstrate) where we hope the water from the downspout above, as well as any water that drains away from the house will end up: You can see the slope of the yard that we're dealing with in this picture. We'll obviously have to back fill a lot so we don't end up just building a waterfall. I think the retaining wall will end up about 4 ft tall, maybe up to 5 at the deepest point. I was thinking of doing something like this (photo of a book page--I can't remember which one I found it in, though.): So, to get to my question. Obviously we'll be dealing with a bit more than the usual amount of water-pressure on this retaining wall. Even though it'll be dry-stacked I want to put a heavy-duty drainage pipe behind and slightly below it. I know there are perforated pvc pipes that can withstand 1000 lbs of pressure, but they're rigid and straight. I don't want to use the flexible stuff because I'm positive it would be crushed by the heavy stones. Is there a way to use the perforated PVC to make it follow a curve? Could I join pieces together with connectors that aren't perforated and have it all work okay? What would you recommend? Thanks for any help! Alina |
Follow-Up Postings:
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| I could be wrong, but can't you fill the flexible pipe with drainage rock to maintain its integrity? |
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- Posted by reads_n_writes 5 (My Page) on Tue, Apr 10, 12 at 17:18
| Thanks for the response, schabadoo! I picture that set up acting like scissors, cutting into the flexible pipe anywhere there was a pressure point. Has anyone ever tried it, though? We've used (non-perforated) flexible pipe for other applications and it doesn't seem all that tough. I'd hate to put so much effort and expense into something that won't hold up for at least my lifetime. But I guess it might be my only option? Although, I think a crushed/damaged drainage pipe would be worse than no pipe at all in this scenario. |
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| Since you have a pretty challenging wall to build, I suggest getting a geotechnical engineer in to look at it and give you suggestions. Depending on where you live, your code may require it. Retaining walls over a certain height usually require an engineer's plan. |
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| how about a row of cinder blocks on either side of the flexible perforated pipe? min |
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- Posted by reads_n_writes 5 (My Page) on Thu, Apr 12, 12 at 11:56
| Thanks for the suggestion tanowicki! It's not going to be a very tall wall, and I'm probably making it sound like a lot more water than we will really have to contend with. I'll look into getting a professional out here to get advice, but the budget is pretty slim for such things. Min3, that's not a bad idea. Thanks for the suggestion. I'm surprised more people haven't run into this issue. Maybe I'm over-thinking it? I guess if I'm careful, the flexible pipe is probably the best option, but I saw many warnings against it in my reading. What do the professionals who don't like flexible pipe using if they're building to a curve? Hmmm... |
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| Solid non-perf fittings to form the angles needed won't compromise the functioning of a drain line. Given your explanation of all the water/drainage issues you describe, it does sound like you would be well advised to have the appropriate professional review of your situation before you finish this project. |
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- Posted by oceandweller 8B (My Page) on Fri, Apr 13, 12 at 1:24
| Some things you could do, would be to get heavy plastic grate or even light metal thats coated and put on top of a french drain, then pebble, then rock. Thats the route I would go. Your dry creek bed seems like a good idea and should help a lot. Best of luck. |
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| Your drain pipe doesn't go below the wall, it goes behind it. This is why you're able to use flexible 4" ABS plastic. Think about the movement of the water - that pipe behind the wall exists as a pressure relief valve, so that if water builds up behind the wall it can be diverted out the face of the wall before the wall is forced over. If you put the pipe below the wall, where will that water go? If it's going in or around the footer, your wall will fail. Look up Anchor retaining walls online and look at their installation details. Even though theirs is a manmade product, the principles of the drainage areas are the same. An 18" garden wall is no big deal. You're talking about a four or even five foot wall? That's nothing to screw around with, especially since the goal is serious water diversion from a basement that's already had water intrusion issues. I can't recommend strongly enough the involvement of a professional. |
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- Posted by reads_n_writes 5 (My Page) on Fri, Apr 13, 12 at 11:08
| I'll look into having a professional come in. You've all convinced me. Just need to find one. I realized the drainage goes behind the wall, marcinde. Behind and slightly lower (so "below") is what I thought, am I right? I'll look up the anchor-retaining walls, thanks for the tip. I appreciate the time you each took to respond, thanks! |
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