Assuming that you want the doors to act as permanent, nonmovable walls to the greenhouse you only need to frame up wall(s) with the spacing for those doors. I did this for endwalls in an arch type greenhouse incorporating parts of slifding glass patio doors.

Usually you use treated 2x4" lumber to frame the walls, and I prefer a 4x4" pillar on either side of an opening door and as a base. You can slide the doors into the frame and then screw in treated 2x2"strips around the perimeter of both inside and outside to secure the door and prevent air leaks. You might even want to caulk any gaps. I mention screwing the strips into place because you may want to move one or more at a future time for a fan, intake louver or some other addition.

Here's what we did with the patio doors we collected when building a greenhouse 7 years ago. We got 9...saved a couple in case of any calamities! We used the doors for the south roof and other windows we collected for the walls.

{{gwi:290093}}

Here's what it looked like while we were framing it in...

{{gwi:288502}}

Wow - that's a nice GH wyndyacre. Did you frame the patio doors so they still operate (venting in summer)?

bmoser wrote: You can slide the doors into the frame and then screw in treated 2x2"strips around the perimeter of both inside and outside to secure the door and prevent air leaks. You might even want to caulk any gaps.

There is also a foam product that expands into cracks. I recommend using this before you screw in the finish carpentry. It'll pay for itself very soon.

Dan

The patio doors on the roof are stationary but the horizontal windows in the back wall are hinged on top and can be propped open. The doors have screen doors and there is an automatic roof vent in the back roof section. There is also a thermostatically controlled exhaust fan in one gable end of the GH.

I'm having a greenhouse built by a company that has a lot of experience. When I wanted to incorporate windows like the ones on my house, he said he couldn't. He said they aren't made for greenhouse conditions. I've seen several examples of this sort of thing on line. I wonder if it's true.

I guess it will work for several years, but at that price, (salvaged) I guess it's worth it.

Freedee, it will depend on the type of door. An aluminum door would be ok. A wooden door probably would not stand up to greenhouse conditions.

Dan, I used an expanding foam product called "Great StufF" but if you have a fancy structure it may not be that great for you. It tends to dry cure to a pumpkin orange color and is visible from a distance as it protrudes from cracks.

Over the years I've found that things warp and twist as they age. I was just examining one of many aluminum doors that I installed in my GHs and it has twisted to expose an air gap that wasn't there last fall. I'll probably put a second latch at the top of the door to secure it for cooler weather. Much of the construction material not made for greenhouses may not give you the desired long term effect but in my case I got it cheap so I improvise.

Awesome looking GH. How's it working for you. I have constructed one much the same and I'm hoping to work it this summer.

I have taken noticed that people always have a zone in which they live, could you tell me what zone Newfoundland is in.