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oraylawson

10x 12 HFGH

oraylawson
18 years ago

Hello! My name is Ray and I am a new member here. I recently purchased the HFGH after learning about it here in the forums.

I have just completed the frame assembly and am beginning to install the panels. Assembly has been interesting to say the least. The assembly instructions are poorly written and lack any real detail drawings, however it did go together without modification to any of the parts. The included hardware was of the correct quantity and length. The frame, once assembled and braced, is quite sturdy. I did add one additional brace which was needed to prevent the side walls from bowing out at the center. This will be a very nice greenhouse when it is completed and I am very pleased with my purchase.

I just wanted to let others who may be interested in this greenhouse know that they will be pleasantly surprised by the solid construction and space provided for such a small cost.

I have added a link to construction photos which may be helpfull in construction.

Here is a link that might be useful: HFGH 10x12

Comments (44)

  • javan
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Nice job of construction and good pics. Thanks! Jim

  • shastadaisy
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi, thanks for posting those photos, Ray. My husband and I are having a helluva time getting our HFGH together and your photos will be a great help to us. We were not as lucky with our HFGH. We are waiting for HF to ship us new #7 cornerposts as ours are cut and drilled incorrectly.

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    shastadaisy you are welcome! I struggled with the poorly detailed assembly instructions and just wanted to pass along a little help to those who may be turned off by the lack of detail that a few key photos or even good drawings could have provided.
    By the way all four corner posts in my kit were identical and only had two sets of holes in the center. This is the way they should be. The drawing in the instructions is NOT correct.
    I have completed the assembly and will add additional photos later this week. If I can provide a photo of any specific detail just let me know.
    Good luck with your construction.

  • don_wilson
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Ray. I'm also a new member here and just about to assemble my 10x12 . Like your base design!! What are the treated wood compartments around the perimeter for? Any there any modifications you would make at this point?
    Thnaks

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Don thanks for the compliment. The wood compartments that you see at the back and right side are planting beds to allow in ground planting within the greenhouse. Since part of my foundation is above ground and I plan to fill the inside to the top of the metal base frame, after insulating and protecting the metal frame, I installed the short blocking to tie the inner and outer treated frames together to prevent the sides from bowing out.
    I have made two other modifications. Both the front wall above the doors and the back wall have been reinforced with extra bracing to make them stiffer. This is a simple inexpensive fix and I will be adding photos later this week to show the details. There are no other changes that I am planning.
    Good luck with your's

  • gato_gordo
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ray,

    Great pictures.

    Are you saying that there are no parts #7A and #7B and that all four corners are the same #7? We purchased ours a couple weeks ago and I plan to put it together this weekend. I already noticed that we have four #7 and they are all the same.

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    gato_gordo

    Yes all four corners, part #7, should be the same. Only two sets of holes in the center "not three" and all holes in the same location. You will see when you add the horizontal bracing that everything will line up as it should.
    By the way when you install the horizontal braces the arrow should point to the corner.

    Good Luck with the assembly.

  • don_wilson
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks Ray, looking foward to the upcomming pictures.

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have completed the assembly. Three braces were added. One to join the side walls together at the top of the walls and 1/8' 1-1/2' x 1-1/2' aluminum angle added at the front and rear walls to add needed stiffness.
    I have updated the photos showing the changes.
    I also used additional panel clips purchased from (Charley's Greenhouse). All panels have been taped at both ends with aluminum tape, purchased locally.
    The gravel floor and planting beds still need to be completed as well as installation of benches, fans, motorized shutters, lights, misting system, etc. etc.
    Photo below showing completed greenhouse.

    {{gwi:295069}}



    Minor modifications and the result is a very nice greenhouse. In my humble opinion a very good deal for only $599.00 plus $50.00 shipping.

    Here is a link that might be useful: HFGH 10x12

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    In the post above that should be 1/8" x 1-1/2"x 1-1/2" aluminum angle.

  • greginshasta
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ray, I have a question about the #7 corner posts. Below is a photo of the top of that part.

    Since the instructions are so well done, I can only guess that the 2 flanges at the top of the image are supposed to go toward the inside of the greenhouse. It appears that the slots are where the poly panels are inserted. As such, those 2 flanges will be pointing down the respective sides of the GH framework.

    Then, there are the 2 holes drilled into the flange at the lower-right. That's where the #49 corner brackets mount.

    But the corner brackets need to point in toward each other, and that's why it makes sense that there would be 7A and 7B because the holes would need to be opposite each other. And because the upper flanges (with the notches for the poly panels) will point along the GH walls, the flanges with the 2 holes will point away from the GH instead of toward the adjacent corner.

    As you say, and this is certainly my case, all four #7 parts are identical. Which according to the above, doesn't work out vevy well.

    So how did you make this work?

    Thanks,
    Greg

    {{gwi:295070}}

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Greg

    The corner posts #7 should have 4 holes at one end and two holes at the other end with two sets of two offset holes in the center. All holes should be in the flat sides. (The sides without the flange) The sides without the flange are the inside of the corner and the end with four holes will be the top.

    When installed the top two holes at the sides will be used to attach parts #12 & #13 and the remaining two holes will be used to attach the corner brackets Part #49.

    The two holes at the bottom will be used with part #47 to attach the corner to the base frame.

    In your photo there is one hole in the outside of the corner (the flanged side) this will not be used. If there are two holes in the flat sides (the inside of the corner) at the other end. You will need to drill a fourth hole in the end showing. This hole will need to be opposite and in line with the bottom hole showing at the right. You can use the corner bracket, part #49 as a template for drilling if needed.

    All four corner posts will be the same.

    Hope this helps! Ray

  • oranjelo
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi HFGH Owners,
    Has anyone ever thought of copying all threads of owners having problems with the 10x12 HFGH and then faxing all threads to the home office.It might put a fire under the right person.

  • tools_r_us
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    A big thanks to this forum's members for the pix, they were very helpful in the assembly of my 10x12 this weekend. My corner posts (#7) are all the same and didn't cause any issues.

    On my kit the corner braces are rectangular (#79 & #80), the pictures I have seen they are angle, this caused some interference tightening some of the nuts. My corner brackets also look thicker and there is a bag of longer bolts #78, looks like they have made some updates to the kit already?

    http://copperstatecruisers.org/Images/forum/gh/hfgh_f_corner.jpg

    I built it pretty much stock to the instructions and am impressed with the results, looks like it's going to be a nice unit! We glued the floor plates (#1-6) to the foundation with 35yr outdoor calking, not the strongest glue, but with that much surface area it may add some strength. Where I veered from the instructions was in the sequence of assembly, on the corner posts we installed the braces (#79 & 80) to hold them solid, then bolted on the side ceiling plates (#12 & 13) etc.

    The "instructions" said to assemble the roof on the ground and lift it onto the walls, not going to happen with just the wife and I. We completed the lower assembly then installed the crown beams (#8 & 9) bolted the crown assembly (#10 & 11) to them and assembled the rest on ladders. Worked great this is how I would recommend putting them together.

    The T slot setup on most of the beams is pretty trick allowing accessories to be mounted along their length. We thought about how to maximize this and settled on adding nuts in the slots for future use as we assembled it. The nuts we found that fit are 1/4" x 20 jam nuts, they are thinner than other types and fit perfect.

    http://copperstatecruisers.org/Images/forum/gh/hfgh_nuts.jpg

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    tools_r_us

    Great tip on caulking the floor plates!
    Wish I had done the same.

    Good advice on the assembly. I assembled the corners and roof just as you described and was able to assemble the entire greenhouse with little assistance. I agree with you, assembling the entire roof on the ground didn't make much sense.

    From your photo it does appear that they have made some changes.

    The only drawback to installing nuts in the track will be that you will need to make sure that any bolts used for fastening are exactly the correct length although the length could be adjusted using washers. Tee-bolts available at (Charley's Greenhouse) also work very well and can be installed easily after assembly.

    Post a photo of the completed greenhouse when you finish!!

    Ray

  • greginshasta
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ok, I am making progress, but I'm still furious at all the silly stuff one has to overcome during this assembly. Whoever wrote the instructions simply did not follow those instructions themselves and think about what they were proposing.

    As a note to those who have not yet assembled this kit, I recommend that you read the entire instructions before starting just so you can try to overcome some of the unnecessary extra steps designed into the assembly. There are a number of instances where you can short-cut the instruction and make life a lot easier for yourself. There are also instructions that are simply not present, and should be.

    Examples:

    - When erecting the #7 corner posts, I think the instructions should have first called for installation of the #49 corner brackets on each. The instructions also do not point out the direction that corner posts must be oriented. If you look at my photo in the above post, note that 2 edges are smooth, and 2 have slots in them.

    The holes for the #49 brackets are drilled on the wrong side (my photo shows the extra holes that I have drilled.) The stock holes on mine were drilled on the smooth fins, when in fact those smooth fins need to point away from the GH. The slot in the other fins provide a gap into which the wall panels will be inserted. Accordingly, the #49 brackets will be installed into the fins with the slots. Further, only one hole was drilled into that fin, so I had to drill a second hole in order to attach the #49 bracket.

    - When assembling parts #48 to #31 on the rear wall, you will in a later step attach posts #14 to #48. Yet later, parts #18 & #19 will be added to the top of the #14 posts, by attaching them to the #48 brackets. I personally believe it would have been just as easy to assemble all 6 parts together as a single unit and erect the whole thing at once because it would be easier to do this with everything laying on the work surface than trying to add parts #18/19 up in the air.

    - When assembling the #14 posts (those in the above item as well as ALL of the others,) you have to plan for installing the #31 braces around the sides and rear. The instructions show that the #14 posts that are adjacent to each corner require 3 bolts: 2 long ones and short one. This is misleading and incorrect. Nor does it tell you in what order to install those bolts.

    Reviewing the instructions, note that those #14 posts will have the #80 diagonal braces attached to them. You need the short bolt to float in the middle so you can secure the #80 to the #14.

    Further, you need 2 long bolts floating in ALL of the #14 posts so that when you get to the point of installing the #30 & 31 horizontal braces you have bolts installed and ready to accept those braces. Otherwise you end up having to disassemble stuff to get the silly bolts in there.

    - Another mis-step is that the #79 and #80 horizontal braces require removal of the nuts where they attach, when they could probably just as easily be attached when you are assembling things earlier. Hang the #79 and #80 braces from the top when you are attaching #49 so they are available for attachment to #14 when you are building the wall.

    - Again, and at a very late stage of assembly the nuts are removed from the bolts holding the #14 posts down to the #1/2, #3/4 and #5/6 bottom plates so that you can attach the #47 hold-down brackets. Its not like those #47 hold-down brackets couldnÂt be installed at the same time you are installing the #14 wall posts!

    Based on experience, I predict discovering additional such examples, but this is what I have to the point that 3 walls are largely complete.

    And I hope the above is useful to others GrrrrÂ

  • greginshasta
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    After posting the above, and continuing the assembly (thank goodness for some spring weather!), I've made further discoveries. Also a clarification of the above.

    On page 8 of the instructions appears Figure D. They actually try to communicate the need to place EXTRA bolts in the slot, but their choice of language is poor and the number of bolts is incorrect. What they should be saying is that you need EXTRA bolts in the slots, in addition to those used to secure the #14 posts to the top and bottom, and it would help if they mentioned that those are for the purpose of securing the braces that are added later. But the number of bolts that they specify is an issue as well:

    If you look at page 10, you will see that two SETS of #30 braces will be installed on each side wall. Ditto the two SETS of #31 braces on the rear wall. For each such brace you need a long bolt to secure it to the adjacent post. The instructions don't tell you to put enough bolts into the posts.

    That means that for the #14 posts marked with an asterisk (the four which are closest to the corners), you need 2 long bolts floating on the post which will be used to secure the #30 braces. You also need a single short bolt floating (in the middle, between the long ones) on the post which will be used for the #80 diagonal braces.

    And on the tall #16/17 posts, you need a pair of long bolts also because you will be securing two #31 braces.

    But then on all of the other #14 posts you actually need FOUR long bolts. The reason for this is because the #30 and #31 braces overlap in the middle and you need all those bolts to secure everything.

    Back to work...

  • greginshasta
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I installed a couple of panels today, just to see how they fit.

    The panel in the corner slips into the slot formed in the #7 corner post, and then you use the panel clips on the adjacent #14 post.

    It's my observation that the panel could be just a bit wider (or the gap a bit narrower), as the clip fails to hold it securely. The next panel fit flush between the #14 posts, but that corner piece misses by about 1/4 inch.

    I have seen a few posts concerning the clips folks have purchased from Charley's. Are these significantly different? I'm getting ready to order some, but am wondering if I should simply buy enough to replace all of the clips provided by HF.

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    greginshasta

    Glad to see you are getting things sorted out.

    If I understand your description correctly you have the corners installed backwards. The two bottom edges showing in your photo are to be installed facing the inside of the greenhouse. Clips will be used to secure the panels to the corners in the same way they are used in the wall studs. The panels are not designed to fit into a slot in the corner posts. This would explain why the panels seem to be to narrow.

    The clips ftom Charley's are a tighter fit than those provided with the kit, however the clips provided seem to hold very well.

    Ray

  • milwdave
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Having built the 6x8 model I can say that the clips provided are fine. I just bought extras from Charlie's for the peace of mind. I also used self threading screws, ONE in both the top and bottom of each panel. My greenhouse has survived quite high windstorms here in Milwaukee.

    Dave
    Milwaukee

  • greginshasta
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Ray,

    Following are images of the corner posts, as I have installed them.

    {{gwi:295071}}


    {{gwi:295072}}

    In the image below, the side of the coner post is installed to the inside of the GH. That allows the poly panel to fit into the slot provided:
    {{gwi:295073}}

    With the panel inserted into the slot, that effectively binds that side of the panel. However, I find that this panel fails to reach all the way to the adjacent #14. There remains approximately a 1/4" gap. With the panel clip installed, a slight gust of wind was sufficient to blow the panel out.

    If the above indicates the correct alignment of the posts, then that also demonstrates that the holes into which nearly everything else that connects to the corners are drilled incorrectly on these parts.

    The holes to which the #30/31 braces will be connected are on the wrong fins. In order to complete the assembly of these wall braces I had to use the brace as a drilling guide adjacent to where the holes appear in the outer fin. Earlier, I had to do the same with the #49 brackets and (if I recall correctly) either the 12/13 or the 24/25 top plates (maybe both - that was a few days ago.)

  • greginshasta
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    My sentence should have read:

    In the image below, the lower side of the coner post is installed toward the inside of the GH. That allows the poly panel to fit into the slot provided:

  • bevs_garden
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi, I'm trying to assemble our 10x12 HFGH right now. I see by all the previous messages that some of you have been successful and some not so.... I got on the web to try to find clearer instructions... stumbled onto this forums and now consider myself lucky to have found sooo many that have tried sooooo hard before me. I've got the base together and have figured out the #7 corner studs. I've got the Side Ceiling plates (12, 13) up. I'm stuck on the Front Ceiling Plate (24, 25) How does #24 join to #25?? Would appreciate all the knowledge and skills of all of you who have gone before.....

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hope this helps.

    {{gwi:295074}}

    Ray

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    bevs_garden

    Front ceiling plates #24 & #25 are joined together using parts #26 & #27, left and right door rails. The right door rail becomes a splice plate for joining #24 & #25.

    Good luck with construction.

    The following photos may prove helpful.

  • bevs_garden
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks so much oraylawson! Another question - What is aluminum tape? I'm reading EVERYONE'S comments throughly now! Thanks so much to all - I think I'll take the notes into our local Harbor Freight store and give them to the manager. He's a really nice fellow and I bought the one and only 10 x 12 he has ever carried. I will probably have a ton more questions before I finish this project. My husband (who is blind)(really) and I are doing this our selves. So far, pretty good progress......

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    bevs_garden

    It is simply an aluminum foil with an adheasive back.

    Below you will find a link to the tape.

    It can be purchased in 2" wide rolls at any home improvement store for about $7.00 per roll.

    One roll will be more than enough.

    Ray

  • greginshasta
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ray, your illustration is exactly how I have mine installed.

    So I guess this confirms my statement that HF drilled the #7 posts incorrectly.

    Thanks,
    Greg

  • greginshasta
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    bevs_garden,
    Slip the head of the short bolts into the slot on the back of #27. Align those bolts with the holes in #24 & 25, and then secure them with nuts from the inside of the GH.

    When you go to HF to visit with the manager, I would suggest the purchase of a pair of 10mm socket wrenches - one regular, and one deep. I'm finding those most useful, and it beats the heck out of the silly little wrenches provided with the kit.

    Also, when installing the #14 wall posts it will be necessary, as I mentioned above, to slip additional bolts into the slots. I am finding it convenient to have a roll of electric tape in hand when I do that. This allows me to slip the bolts up out of the way, then place a piece of tape below them. That keeps them out of the way when you are attaching the bolts at the bottom which secure the posts to the frame.

    Good luck,
    Greg

  • gato_gordo
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ray,

    I wanted to thank you again for the pictures. There were a few times I stopped contruction and went back into the house to study your pictures before continuing. As you stated above, everything went together without any modifications.

    Gato Gordo

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    gato_gordo

    You are very welcome. I'm glad that they were helpfull.

    Ray

  • greginshasta
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ray,
    At the point that I looked at your illustration I inidicated that your example was a reflection of how I had installed the corners. Wrong...

    Indeed, I had them in the other way, and didn't think it through carefully when I initially replied.

    Frustrated by the less-than-clear instruction from HF, and taking the lead from earlier posts, I had become convinced that the slot formed by the 1/4" tabs on the fins was intended to receive the edge of the poly panels - and that it this proved the need to re-drill holes on the #7 corners.

    It took until I was erecting the roof and the "slots" in parts #8/9 appeared to be wrong, (assuming the #7 corners were positioned correctly) that I began to reflect on those corners and your photo again.

    I'm now in the process or refersing the direction of the corners, even as the roof is largely installed.

    I no longer know what was right or wrong about my #7 posts. I've drilled enough new holes in the #7s that I no longer know which were original, and which were added by myself.

    HF really should consider taking one of their silly kits and trying to assemble it. But I'll tell ya, the photos and descriptions you provided should really make things better for others in the future.

    Cheers,
    Greg

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Greg,

    Glad to hear that you have everything sorted out. Im sure it has been very frustrating for you, but I think you will like the finished product. Im happy to have helped.

    I to was frustrated by the lack of detail drawings in the instructions. It took me over an hour of head scratching and searching the forum only to find out that the corners may not be correct and need re-drilling to match the drawing. Another hour of head scratching to figure out that the corners should work as they were. Then I just jumped in and started assembly and discovered that they indeed were all supposed to be the same. When it took me another hour to figure out how to assemble the front ceiling plates I decided to start photographing the details so that others could avoid the same aggravation.

    I must say that I have always found most foreign manufactured items to have poor instructions, but I have never seen so many mistakes and so few details in any assembly instructions. Hopefully that explains why no instructions have yet been posted on their site. Maybe just maybe they are debugging them before posting.

    Once assembled however the greenhouse really is quite nice and worth the effort. At least it was for me.

    Ray

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    18 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    For those who may be concerned about flexing of the steel base. Consider this cheap fix.

    {{gwi:295075}}



    Cost, under $10.00, installed over every hold down clip.

    Or try this for extra security.
    {{gwi:295076}}

    Cost, under $20.00, installed over every hold down clip.

    No fancy fabrication needed. Just cut to length, flatten with a hammer, drill holes, and install.

    Of course you could use flat bar, angle, channel, etc.

    Ray

  • gardenerwantabe
    17 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Yes that would make a big difference. Depends on the wall thickness of the tubing but I think the angle would be much stronger.

  • greginshasta
    17 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Have you done this on your unit Ray? How did it turn out?

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    17 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Greg

    No

    I insulated the frame and installed composite lumber against the inside to protect the insulation.
    {{gwi:295077}}

    Ray

  • Miss_Mudcat
    17 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Ray,

    Your pictures are great! My DH and I saw the 10 x 12 GH for sale in the HF magazine for the first time today, so I've been reading this thread and others with much enthusiasm. How do you feel about your HFGH now? I was feeling discouraged after reading other posts, but after seeing your detailed pictures and instructions feel that we can tackle this and be quite satisfied.

    Lisa

  • oraylawson
    Original Author
    17 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Lisa,

    I am very satisfied with the greenhouse. Click on the link below to read my follow up post. Take your time, read everthing that has been posted here, and you should have no trouble with assembly. Enjoy!

    Ray

  • annazone5
    17 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I am finding all the posts to be most helpful! Has anyone put two of these together end-to-end? I am also planning to build a potting shed attached to the north end of them. We will be starting next weekend and I'll keep a journal. It kinda sounds like we will just be "wingin' it" but I thought I'd ask anyway! THANK-YOU!!!

  • dbw7
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Just opened my new 10 x 12 greenhouse kit from HF and they have made some modification. The Roof panels and door panels have a shading element manufactured in to them. Called their 1-800 number and got sent to their tech department for the answer. Has anyone had experience with this modifcation.

    Thanks, dbw7

  • ChoctawWoman
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Thanks so much to Ray for all the pics and extra info for this HFGH, I copied all the photos at Photobucket to keep for future ref., am planning on a GH this year or next Spring.

    Dolores

  • funnylady
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Annazone5 Yes someone has put 2 of these together. They are posted some where on here.
    I now have 3 HFGH together, so now it id a 10X36 GH. Love it.
    The last addition is not posted on here. I can never get photos to show up.

    At one time someone post instructions on how to post photoes. If anyone has them can you post them again and I will give it another try.

  • tmc2009
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi, I bought mine last spring and its still in the box. I would like to have a nice insulated foundation to keep the frost out. At least thats the excuse I have given myself to building it already. I found this blog about doing all the mods for strengthening. I don't know if everyone already knows about it but I'll show the link anyway.

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