First I put gutters on both sides

I removed a pane of glass and replaced with Lexan. I ran the gutter downspouts through the Lexan and into the GH. (I wrapped around the corner so that I didn't have to look at the greenish Lexan from my back porch!)

I set up 3 44 gallon barrels inside. One is under the potting bench (foreground). One is where the old deep well tank sat (background). I plan on building a bench on top of the two in the background.

The downspouts convert from schedule 40 PVC to a flexible tubing. I didn't want cold water in winter displacing the warmer water in the barrels in the GH. This way, I can remove the downspout from the barrels in the winter and divert the rainwater onto the ground. Buried in the floor of my GH are a series of perforated PVC drains which drain the water out and down the hill.

I put sensors in one of the barrels. These control a solenoid valve which in turn controls the flow of water to the RO system. It also has the capacity to operate a pressure booster pump, but I haven't needed one so far. I put these sensors low on the barrel because I didn't want the system filling with RO water and then overflowing with rainwater. This way I always have the capacity to accept rainwater in the system...I do lose some "backup" water with this design. Here are the floats. The top one turns the valve off, the bottom one turns it on.

Here is the RO system with a second 90gpd membrane. You can see the solenoid valve.

All of the barrels are connected with tubing at the bottom. Each has its own shutoff valve, and there is a valve to shut off the entire water supply altogether. From there, I put on a filter and a check valve, shown in this picture.

From there the water goes to a demand-delivery pump with 60 psi cutoff...then on to a 20 gallon bladder tank precharged to 40 psi.

Now I have a much improved supply of good water. My misters deliver a much foggier mist with a pressure of 60 psi than they did at the weaker pressure in my old system, 35 psi. Plus my system holds much more water and the RO system won't be needed for much of the year.

I hope that this helps someone with their system and I welcome any comments.

SB

It looks like you are getting enough sunlight because of nothing is shading the GH.

But do you find the large structural frames and the gutter blocking too much light?

dcarch

I don't find that the frame and gutters block too much light. The largest of shadows (from the eave/gutter and the ridge) move evenly across the GH because they are oriented north-south.

Karl, this schematic might help.

I get tired of complaints about these things.
Two complementary words and the rest is just complaining.

I only got high-speed last January and up to that point the very fastest I've ever had, was 26.8K.
I spent years at around 14.4K to 24.6K
If I wanted to see something, it was worth the time to download it.
I didn't always complain and demand that you post according to my needs.
What about the close to(?) 50% that would actually like to see some details?

dcarch

"...many underdeveloped countries have higher speed connectivities than USA."

I think that many of those countries are benefiting from much newer technology or have a smaller and/or less complex population distribution.
Getting anything upgraded here is far more labor intensive, expensive and invasive.
We won't tolerate the roads being torn up for long periods or our views being blocked, etc.
We still have some semblence of safety precautions and can't work for $100 a month.
We also finance the R&D that built those systems and help to put them into place.

It's just easier to put in place all of the new stuff without the old stuff being in the way! ;~)
I've lived in mostly rual areas, even when close to urban regions.
The phone lines are old and even in winds, everything flashes or otherwise becomes unstable.
I can't tell you how many times I've become angry and just unplugged the whole freekin' thing and walked away!
A good cocktail kept me from finding the sledgehammer!;~)

Scott