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| Okay - so I have decided to change the location for my greenhouse, and no longer do a lean-to. This will be my first greenhouse, and I feel like there is so much to learn before purchasing/building one! I am now leaning toward a Rion Green Giant 8x16. The posts I have found on here are from several years ago, and I wonder if Rion has made any improvements? It seems "leaking" is the biggest complaint. Which, in summer, is a bonus for me. In the winter, not-so-much. Our temperatures range anywhere from 10 degrees F mid-winter, (nighttime) to 115 F mid-summer (daytime.) We have had winters below zero, but those are rare, and daytime in the winter is USUALLY above freezing. Summer is just hot. There is no getting around that.
So, with this information, what would YOU do? I wonder if just one oil-filler radiant heater would be enough in the winter to keep the greenhouse warm enough? I plan on digging down about 3 feet, for the bottom of the green house (below frost level - to provide more heat), and building the greenhouse above. I have not decided how I would insulate the area where greenhouse meets ground. Possibly straw. Would I need added ventilation, with the auto vents? As far as summer goes, I am thinking of having misters, to maintain humidity (NO humidity where I live) and keeping all doors and windows/vents open constantly. Plants, such as tomatoes, peppers, squash, etc... would all be moved to my outdoor garden. What am I missing here?? |
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| I don't know much about Rion so I can't comment on that. But I can say that it sounds like you are doing a good job in thinking through all the important elements of a good setup. Will you be getting a water line installed? And electricity? (I assume yes if you are considering a radiant heater.) For winter, what will you be growing and what minimum temperature will you be aiming for? If you dig your foundation deep into the ground and insulate the perimeter (underground), then you can skip insulating the floor. This method is warmer than insulating the floor because you are making use of the fact that the ground is warmer than the air in winter. You can learn more about this by searching here or in Shane Smith's greenhouse book. |
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- Posted by tarabelle24 none (My Page) on Wed, Oct 24, 12 at 18:07
| Thanks for the tip!! I will look up that book. Yes, I will have electricity ran to the greenhouse, and as far at is not water, I am calling a plumber to get that worked out. Currently, I do not have a frost-free spigot/line in the yard, and there is not a real direct shot to the greenhouse. I do have water at the greenhouse location currently, but it is not frost free. I can use that source of water March-November, so I am thinking worse-case-scenario, I hand water through the winter months. As far as what I am growing... good question! I figure this year I am just going to give everything a try and see what happens! I keep getting conflicting information from people on what will, or will not grow, so I want to learn for myself. BUT, I am certainly open for suggestions! As far as plants like squash, watermelon, pumpkins, etc... I will just start seeds, and plant those outdoors next spring. Thoughts?? My thinking is, try to keep the greenhouse above 50 F. I do not think that will be THAT hard to achieve, and I think the majority of the time it will easily stay around 70 inside (during the winter) because of the location. It is also very protected from the wind (not that we get that much wind anyway) so I do not have to worry about that. Am I way off?? |
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| I do the same thing with water. I drain out the water line in December and hand water until late Feb. There is so little growth during that time that it hardly matters. One year I turned the water back on during a midwinter cold spell and I forgot to drain it out again when cold weather resumed. So I had a broken pipe but it was not hard to fix. As for the heat and the winter growing - before you commit to heating your greenhouse all winter, and paying the money that goes along with that, I would give some serious thought to why you want to do that and what will be possible. I agree, experimenting is a great way to proceed. But I'd caution you to not get yourself locked into something that ends up being a lot of energy use for a small gain. Sounds like you are in a warm spot anyway, which is great. Another book for you is Elliot Coleman's 'Four Season Harvest.' He discusses various methods to keep your winter greenhouse productive without adding heat. My approach to getting the most out of the greenhouse is to be as clever and efficient as possible, and to use added electricity only as a last resort - that way I am not dependent on having added heat to make it all work. Everyone's approach is different - that is just my viewpoint! Enjoy the planning - certainly it is all very exciting. |
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- Posted by tarabelle24 5 (My Page) on Wed, Nov 7, 12 at 12:53
| Thank you! I will look into that book. The temperatures here are still 70's during the day, and 40-50 at night. Easily could have a greenhouse producing. Too bad I do not have it yet! I am just nervous to commit to anything yet without researching EVERYTHING. I should just go for it, and learn and adapt as I go, I guess. Now my thoughts are - double doors...necessary? I am assuming to get proper ventilation in the summer, that is a must-have. |
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- Posted by green_grandma 5A (My Page) on Sat, Nov 10, 12 at 21:08
| I have a Rion Prestige 8 x 16, which is now on its fifth year. The only major difference between the Prestige and the Green Giant are is the use of transparent single thickness side panels versus double thickness panels throughout. Providing that the Rion greenhouse structural members are assembled with a lot of care and attention to detail, the end result is an unbelievably strong structure. But another 'secret' to this strength is attaching the base members of the Rion greenhouse to an 'immovable' surface. If the base isn't absolutely rigid and allows the sidewalls to 'bow out', the roof can 'sag' slightly which can allow roof panels to shift and roof 'caps' to pop. This is the primary cause of the roof leaks. In my own case, I used a 4 x 4 base frame with cross braces supporting a cedar deck 'floor'. If you plan on excavating down a couple of feet, something like poured concrete 'side walls' which cannot / will not 'bow out' is highly recommended. I run an overhead mist system that works beautifully ... providing that you have plenty of water pressure available to allow the mister nozzles to spray properly. I also run a 16" ventilator fan on a thermostat behind a side wall vent panel installed next to the double door ... because the 16 ft length makes for too many 'dead air' zones if you're depending on just the roof vents and side wall vents during the peak heat of summer. I actually keep the double doors closed when the temperature starts pushing 90 degrees in order to allow the ventilator fan to create an end-to-end cross-draft ( drawing outside air from sidewall vent panels at the opposite end of the greenhouse.
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- Posted by jsanders420 7 (My Page) on Thu, Dec 13, 12 at 10:29
| I ordered my 8 x 16 green giant yesterday. I'm excited! Do you think the rion base will be sturdy enough? There really IS too much to learn! |
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| I ordered a Rion 6' x 8' Lean-to greenhouse a few weeks back, and have already completed the foundation and have the greenhouse completely assembled, but am finding that the temperature spikes up above a hundred even when the outside temperature is in the 70's. If I open the door and the roof vent, then it usually stays in the high 80's to low 90's, but it makes me wonder what it will be when the outside temp is in the 90's. I have been looking at ventilation, shade cloth (inside or outside), and am just not sure the best way to proceed. I'm not really sure that I will actually grow anything in the hottest part of summer in the greenhouse, but I also don't want it to get so hot it damages the greenhouse. My primary use will be seed starting in the spring (although I still have all that indoors right now, even though the greenhouse is complete), and then would like to attempt to grow greens year round, so start some in the greenhouse each fall (I left a 42" x 96" section of the floor soil so I could just grow in the floor, the rest of the floor is pavers). |
Here is a link that might be useful: My Rion Greenhouse
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| Cooling is a bigger challenge for me than heating. I keep plants in my 10x12 greenhouse year round, but to do so I have to use shadecloth (roof and west end), an exhaust fan, and I replace some panels on the south side with screens in the summer. I also keep two inexpensive rotating fans running inside, 24-7, for air circulation. I grow plants (cacti and succulents) that tolerate a lot of heat. If we have a 100F day, the temp inside my greenhouse can get to 110-115 even with all of the above, for brief periods. I use Aluminet shadecloth, but there's a lot of good info in this forum on other types of shadecloth as well. I started with enough to cover the roof, then added as I learned what my plants needed, and as I learned how the sun intensity changes throughout the year. If you don't get enough response to this post, you might consider starting a new thread about cooling, since your questions are good ones that affect any type of greenhouse (not just Rion.) Pretty greenhouse! |
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- Posted by organic_kitten 7 (My Page) on Sat, Mar 30, 13 at 10:43
| DH bought a 24" fan and a stand for it from megagreenhouse. It has really handled the cooling problem well in my Rion. Living in Alabama, cooling is more of a problem for me than heating. I do use a small electric heater when necessary in my greenhouse. Five years later, I still really like mine. kay |
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