Step 1
Parts #rd 34 (2) The longer pieces on Bottom of frame
Part # 16 Left (Back of Greenhouse) of Bottom Frame
Part # 17 Right (Front of Greenhouse) of Bottom Frame
Parts #1 (2) Standing Upright (Looking in from where your door will be) in Opposite Corners: Front Left and Back Right
Parts # 29 (2) (Looking in from where your door will be) Standing Upright in Opposite Corners: Front Right and Back Left

Note: All bolts were "hand tightened" in the beginning and will all be fully tightened later.

Step 2
Image shows how Romex wire was brought into the Greenhouse. A channel was hand chiseled and silicone caulked. Depending on how you decide to build your wooden base, etc. results will vary. This is how I chose to build mine.

Step 3
Upper side rail gutters have been installed (2) # 36’s. All bolts are still being hand tightened.

Step 4
Part # 21 attached to # 29 and # 1 on back wall of greenhouse. The flange is on the inside of the frame with the flanged "lip" being on the bottom.

Step 5
You’ll be installing (6) # 10’s. They will bolt to the bottom frame as shown in the first photo and they will be secured using the T-bolts on the top of your frame (part # 36) by sliding them into the channel located on each # 10. ***VERY IMPORTANT*** at this point you’re going to need to slide an extra T-Bolt into four of you # 10’s before tightening up the T-bolt on your # 36’s. This extra T-bolt will later be used to attach to your cross bracing supports #’s 22 (4). This is a step not mentioned in the directions. The next series of photos will show all of this.
img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v280/Cultivar/Harbor%20Freight%20Greenhouse%20Assembly/HarborFreightGreenhouseAssembly005.jpg">

Here’s showing one of the cross braces and why you slid the extra T-bolt in. The next Photo will show you which of the # 10 pieces to slide the extra T-bolt into.

(Showing which # 10’s the extra T-bolt was slid into for future task of assembling the braces (# 22’s))

Step 6
Photo of pieces # 8 and # 9 installed left to right repectively on back side of greenshouse. These are the two long pieces standing upright. We tied a temporary string to hold the front uprights together at this point.

Step 7
It was at this time we decided to secure the frame to the floor of greenhouse. You may want to use your own judgement as to when this step is necessary, however we realized at this time we needed to secure the Frame to the wooden base.

**Note** Had we secured the frame to the base in the very beginning as the instructions recommend, we would have to undone it and done it all over again. We used Pan Phillips Zince 10 x ½ with Zinc Flat Washers # 10 to secure it. The aluminum is pre-drilled but not the wooden base.

Now that the frame is secured to the wooden base it’s now time to "using a level" go back and make sure it is all square and then go back and tighten every bolt.

Step 8
Front diagonal braces (2) # 25’s are secured to front of greenhouse which at this point really stiffens up the entire thing.
**Note** After these braces are put on, the Front ALSO should be square. We had a temporary piece of string holding the front together. At this time our temporary rope was removed. The entire frame is extremely rigid at this point.

Step 9
There’s a lot going on here…
(2) # 23’s and # 6 and # 7 are going to be attached. BOTH # 23’s will be attached FLANGE UP AND FACING OUTSIDE. For #6 and #7 you’ll need to attach them by undoing the bottom bolts on the cross slants and by securing #6 and #7 respectively from RIGHT to LEFT. Photo shows this work as being finished.

Step 10
You’ll be installing (4) # 13 parts. (2) will be installed in the front and (2) will be installed in the back. The first photo shows how these parts are attached to the front and the second shows how they are attached on the back. They fit in conjunction to the pitch of the roof in each corner.

Step 11
(Preparing "Crown Beam" part # 35 with (6) # 11’s). ***NOTE*** At this time again, you’ll need to slide an extra T-bolt into two of your #11’s. The #11’s that needs the extra T-bolt are the ones being used for your pop up vent. See illustration Page 5 Figure B for exact placement.
These series of photos show a generic illustration of how the Crown Beam and it’s componets are attached.

Step 12
Photo of completed roof frame.

Step 13
This is a photo of the CROWN BEAM in the FRONT of the GREENHOUSE. This Photo shows the channel in which part # 33 slides in. Part # 33 is the louvering mechanism for your pop up vent. See illustration Page 5 Figure B for further visual understanding.

Step 14
(Not a good photo). This shows how the pop up vent is put together using parts #30 (2) which are held together by part # 32 (bottom of vent).

Here’s another photo showing the same thing I just took.

Step 15
The next two photos show the installation of part # 15 and the very small part # 18 which will screw into part # 15. These photos will also show part # 51 and how it is installed.
#15 will attach between your (2) # 11’s that you EARLIER (damn these instructions!) slid the extra T-bolts into. Then of course you’ll attach part # 18 as shown. Part #18 is what holds the louver arm.

And another view

Step 16
Part # 12 will be attached first to the holes between the top of the door frame in order to mount the door track, piece # 14. Part # 14 mounts to piece # 12 with slide in T-bolts. Part # 12 was attached first.
Photo taken from above after both parts were installed.

Step 17
Installing part # 14 (Long Bar that connects to part # 19) Part # 19 was installed first. Two photos illustrate how this installation looks.

And a close up of Part # 19 as to how it is secured (Photo detail of # 19).

DOOR ASSEMBLY
Using Sheet Metal Screws (packet #44) screw directly into the allotted channel for each frame piece. Going from top of door to bottom.
Photos going from top to bottom
#24 which is underneath # 31 (I missed a photo but you’ll just have to figure out what I mean by saying #24 is UNDERNEATH # 31)
#26
#26
#27
#20 on LEFT SIDE
#28 on RIGHT SIDE

Photos:
This photo shows Top of Door. Part #31 on top of #24 (#24 is put on first)

This photo shows left side of door (#20) 2 sheet metal screws holding #31 to #20.

This photo shows both parts #26

These next two photos shows part #27 from the front and from the side. NOTE: This is the only part of all of the door parts that only is held in place with one sheet metal screw per side (see photo).

Photo of Completed Frame With Door

PANELS
We taped them (temporarily) on the inside to various parts of the frame and panel as needed to draw the frame and panel together then every panel was silicone caulked (clear silicone) from the outside. Just as a note, I used 9 tubes in total. You can use whatever kind of silicone you like but I went for the 50-year stuff. I’ll remove the tape tomorrow. Here’s my finished product.

I hope this makes life easier for many of you.
Dax

Your photos are GREAT! Thanks for posting them. Did you find it as difficult as people said it was to put it together?

Dave
Milwaukee

My Dad and I took our sweet, sweet time. We worked from 9:00 a.m. Thursday till 4:00 pm and had the entire structure built at this point except for the door. We of course had to take apart things and add T-bolts and on and on so by the time 4 o'clock came around my Dad who is in his mid-sixties was both frustrated and tired.

Yesterday was a breeze. The door became noticibaly clear to us that it had to be screwed together with the sheet metal screws which not a mention is published in the directions, and we had some difficulty figuring out how the track, Piece # 24 was to be attached. Fortunately by that time, there weren't too many pieces left so that eventually got sorted out somewhat quickly.

All I can say is a person has to be somewhat mechanically inept to put this thing together. Both my father and myself joking commented on occasion about how people who might not have put very many things together in their life might never of gotten this damn thing built. This little project could be understood by "anyone" as being of their worst of nightmares.

I am now however the proud owner of my own greenhouse and I couldn't have done it without your guysis help and suggestions! There's a lot of thought that goes into a project such as this prior to building and some of it I definitely overlooked. So thanks again.

Many thanks...

Sincerely,

Dax

Check out this good looking guy.

As I mentioned before, this thing can be built a number of ways and should be modified at times to suit an individuals needs. As in my case where the track could very easily be bent, we just knew that adding "something" would "improve upon" an already well done job.

Thanks again Milwaukee Dave and all.

Best Regards,

Dax

I see they changed the construction of part 27...mine has a black insert that attaches the door to the track of part 17....hmmmmm.

Dave
Milwaukee

Thanks,
Dax

I was gone all day and my dad stopped over to take a look at that door and after he removed it from the track he decided the silicone beefened that thing up on its own. Furthermore, in order to get that little plastic part in there we would have had to remove the siliconed panel. It's good to go in other words.

Thanks again though.
Dax

For Conifer Grafts I have the enclosed poly structure and after they "pushed" and shown significant growth...I have the back benches for them to continue the cycle. I'm also using the back benches for deciduous grafts and for growing my seedling understock. The benches were purchased at my nearby Lowe's Home Improvment Center and stand 18" tall by 18" wide by 36 or 37.5" long. I also was able to purchase a crate of real nice sturdy nursery flats in a bundle of 25 for 39 bucks including shipping. The flats are 17" x 13" and fit perfectly on/in both my benches and my conifer grafting structure...and they fit snugly between the boards running along the top of my conifer structure should I ever choose to do other things besides grafted conifers underneath in the sandy area. All and all I couldn't be happier.

Here's the photos first and then the link to the heater.
Dax

Lots of room to move around too!

What a great job you have done. A big rasberry to those who think we can't have fun in our HFGH's. LOL

Thanks for the link to the Heater. I'll show it to DH tonight.

Cindy

"What do those chumps know anyways!!!"

Harbor Freight, Harbor Freight!!

Take care,

Dax

Thanks guys and thanks for everybody elses help that also helped guide me along.

Dax

In my climate (Zone 5) I'll need two seperate outlets at a rating of 120 Volts each respectively in order for me to run Two heaters that use 1500Watts each potentially.

So if you don't understand any of this, be sure that you get the needed information from somebody (there's a thread currently running) so that you can be ***darn sure*** that you're greenhouse can be heated properly.

Had I not learned what I did today...my world of conifer grafting would have gone kaput at some point.

Dax

I helped a little, but he's really carried it and I think he's just about made record time, thanks to your photos and descriptions, and everyone else's experiences, too. Our only problem has been that my printer's not working ... so we had to keep running in from the yard to check the site ... lol ... dog must think we're nuts ... this is where wireless would come in handy!

I'm wondering how soon I can move a chair and table in there without looking like a complete fool :-)

Ken & Sue in Glassboro ... how are you doing with yours?

Thanks again, everyone.

Diane

Ken & Sue in Glassboro, NJ

We ended up doing the same: completing the frame then setting it on the foundation. We found the 1/2 x 1 inch strips the directions called for were unnecessary. We did put a layer of foam insulation between the foundation and frame - both to help seal any gaps and prevent a chemical reaction between the aluminum and treated lumber. Those 2x12's are going to make a world of difference for you! It's amazing how much the panels do to firm up the frame.

I wish I could come up with some new hints or tips to share, but nothing yet.

I've got a few things moved in there, even though the shelves aren't finished yet, so hope I can get it tightened up before Thursday night's predicted 29 degrees.

Good luck on completing the gh - it's fun when it really begins to take shape!

A million thank you's for posting this. We would not have made it through the day without it. It only took us from 9am to 3pm to get it up, it would have taken a whole weekend with out it.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!

Roxy and her Fiance

Now we just have to get the floor figured out and get the benches in. But I need a nap first, phew!

Good stories here.

Best Regards,

Dax

CAUTION - BONDING AND COMPATIBILITY (all laminates containing polycarbonate)

* Certain sealants and adhesives may not be compatible with the polycarbonate material. Crazing of polycarbonate may result when improper adhesive or sealant materials are in contact with, or close to the polycarbonate, edges and surfaces included. Edge sealants applied by Saint-Gobain Sully on glass edges are not a protection against non-compatible sealants and adhesives. As a consequence, avoid any direct contact between the gluing sealant and the polycarbonate.

Perhaps the 'correct' sealant needs to be used.

Mike...

Here's how it fits into our yard...

Now to dig out that Solar Greenhouse book and figure out how to store that thermal energy.

Mike...

I caulked it inside and out I believe.

I'm in Rock Island, IL.

Glad to be of help:):)

Dax

Is this the best price I am likely to find ?

They offer this price almost every month. In the past year I have yet to see anything else.

MollyD

I just wanted to say "You Rock!!!" for putting this post up on GW!

(Plus, I want to keep this thread "active" for any other GH Newbies tackling this project!)

We've *almost* completed construction of my 6x8 HFGH (it's only taken 2 months!!!). Prior to starting construction, I printed up HFGH's instructions *AND* your illustrated instructions. I went back-and-forth between the two print-outs throughout construction (Yours - without a doubt - were FAR better!!!).

Anyway... I just wanted to post a most sincere "THANK YOU" for posting this!!! I can't even begin to tell you how helpful it was!!!

-Nancy (aka imqtpi)

Dave
Milwaukee

Of course, my father has always taught me to be think before I rush into any project and I think that is relatively easy to see exactly that this step-by-step ordeal came out real good and that also this greenhouse came out beautifully.

Nancy, I'm proud to add to the "manual" to help these idiots re-invent the written language and to dot all the "i's" and cross all the "t's" for them! hahaha - hehehe - hohoho! Plus I'm glad there's a greenhouse that anyone can afford, poor or rich for that matter, and that we all get a glimpse of the good life.

Our health is # 1!

Dax

Laurrie

My husband and I built this greenhouse two weeks ago. Last night we had a storm and it blew out 8 panels, two are gone. Any suggestions and where to go to replace them and have you found a way to make a greenhouse wind proof?

Thanks,
Kelly

Happy planting all!!! Angie

I have a south-facing brick wall of a shed I would like to use as part of a greenhouse structure. It is 22 feet long but only 8 feet high, and the roof is a 2/10 pitch. In looking for materials to use, I found this and other threads that indicate the HF greenhouses are about the best buy going. I was wondering if I could split a 10x12 and make a 5x20 lean-to greenhouse. I figure I'd have to change the roof pitch and probably find some extra aluminum H channel, but even so the price for equivalent components might make this a viable option. Anyone done something similar?

Chuck

I now know the twinwall polycarbonate panels that come with the HFGH kits will not last more than a few years in my own sunny climate, due to (in my opinion) a lack of UV protection, even though HF continues to advertise otherwise. The panels represent a huge part of the value of the kit, since true UV protected twinwall polycarbonate is expensive, so I now advise folks to take this into consideration, depending on climate, when they consider the kit.

Some of the close-up photos in my blog may help you see what I mean about the pre-formed angles in the aluminum framing at the GH corners: Mudhouse blog for 10x12 HFGH

Also, here's a link to a helpful site with many links to info about building your own greenhouse: Free plans for building greenhouses and solar spaces

I also agree, I'd encourage you to start a new thread to get more opinions from other folks...lots of folks here more knowledgeable than me, and some of these older threads with many slow-to-load pics get skipped by folks who might be very helpful to you.
Sheri