Wonderful pictures and instructions. I wish I had had them before I built mine. It was an adventure. Thanks again; you will save many people some aggravation. Jim

Hi Dax,

Your photos are GREAT! Thanks for posting them. Did you find it as difficult as people said it was to put it together?

Dave
Milwaukee

Dave,

My Dad and I took our sweet, sweet time. We worked from 9:00 a.m. Thursday till 4:00 pm and had the entire structure built at this point except for the door. We of course had to take apart things and add T-bolts and on and on so by the time 4 o'clock came around my Dad who is in his mid-sixties was both frustrated and tired.

Yesterday was a breeze. The door became noticibaly clear to us that it had to be screwed together with the sheet metal screws which not a mention is published in the directions, and we had some difficulty figuring out how the track, Piece # 24 was to be attached. Fortunately by that time, there weren't too many pieces left so that eventually got sorted out somewhat quickly.

All I can say is a person has to be somewhat mechanically inept to put this thing together. Both my father and myself joking commented on occasion about how people who might not have put very many things together in their life might never of gotten this damn thing built. This little project could be understood by "anyone" as being of their worst of nightmares.

I am now however the proud owner of my own greenhouse and I couldn't have done it without your guysis help and suggestions! There's a lot of thought that goes into a project such as this prior to building and some of it I definitely overlooked. So thanks again.

Many thanks...

Sincerely,

Dax

Check out this good looking guy.
{{gwi:306952}}

I'll add one more comment to all of you. We decided that a piece of wood should be fastened underneath part #17 and to the wooden base.. (The bottom track for the door)..so that just in case anybody ever decided to step on that "overhanging" aluminum track, the lumber would act as a support for it.

As I mentioned before, this thing can be built a number of ways and should be modified at times to suit an individuals needs. As in my case where the track could very easily be bent, we just knew that adding "something" would "improve upon" an already well done job.

Thanks again Milwaukee Dave and all.

Best Regards,

Dax

Just a quick note on the door tracks....if your door is sticky use some silicone grease, not spray, on all the track surfaces. The door will slide much easier.

I see they changed the construction of part 27...mine has a black insert that attaches the door to the track of part 17....hmmmmm.

Dave
Milwaukee

Well that makes sense Dave.
I suppose that's why there are two holes per side on the bottom of that piece. My door does work well however. I'll take a look and fix it. Other than that I think I'm pretty well dialed.

Thanks,
Dax

Thanks for the tip Dave.

I was gone all day and my dad stopped over to take a look at that door and after he removed it from the track he decided the silicone beefened that thing up on its own. Furthermore, in order to get that little plastic part in there we would have had to remove the siliconed panel. It's good to go in other words.

Thanks again though.
Dax

I thought I'd show my conifer set-up. Also, I found a great heater that you can set the desired temp as low as 45 degrees F and it automatically has built in a "Frost Watch" that turns it on if the temps ever drop to 44 degrees F. Charley's greenhouse sells this 'Safe Heater' for 99 bucks but I was able to find the same exact heater for 59 bucks. (I'll provide a link).

For Conifer Grafts I have the enclosed poly structure and after they "pushed" and shown significant growth...I have the back benches for them to continue the cycle. I'm also using the back benches for deciduous grafts and for growing my seedling understock. The benches were purchased at my nearby Lowe's Home Improvment Center and stand 18" tall by 18" wide by 36 or 37.5" long. I also was able to purchase a crate of real nice sturdy nursery flats in a bundle of 25 for 39 bucks including shipping. The flats are 17" x 13" and fit perfectly on/in both my benches and my conifer grafting structure...and they fit snugly between the boards running along the top of my conifer structure should I ever choose to do other things besides grafted conifers underneath in the sandy area. All and all I couldn't be happier.

Here's the photos first and then the link to the heater.
Dax

{{gwi:306954}}

{{gwi:306955}}

{{gwi:305955}}

Lots of room to move around too!

Dax,

What a great job you have done. A big rasberry to those who think we can't have fun in our HFGH's. LOL

Thanks for the link to the Heater. I'll show it to DH tonight.

Cindy

Thanks Vamptoo!

"What do those chumps know anyways!!!"

Harbor Freight, Harbor Freight!!

Take care,

Dax

Dax
What a great set of photos and instructions. I put mine up last year, but for all those future HFGH owners I say Thank You.
elle

I'm not on this forum much so if it should happen that this thread vanishes into the archives...I've saved this step-by-step assembly as a Word Document and I can paste it again at anytime.
Maybe my gardenweb name "conifers" will be easy for some of you to remember.

Thanks guys and thanks for everybody elses help that also helped guide me along.

Dax

I need to follow up on this thread because I've learned again that I was terribly wrong about something. For those of you who might be using (2) heaters on a standard 120 Volt outlet you ***must be aware*** that the total "load" in terms of Amperage that a 20 Amp Circuit Breaker can handle is only 16 Amps. And really you need to be below the 16 Amps for the heater to run continuously. I learned a valuable lesson today.

In my climate (Zone 5) I'll need two seperate outlets at a rating of 120 Volts each respectively in order for me to run Two heaters that use 1500Watts each potentially.

So if you don't understand any of this, be sure that you get the needed information from somebody (there's a thread currently running) so that you can be ***darn sure*** that you're greenhouse can be heated properly.

Had I not learned what I did today...my world of conifer grafting would have gone kaput at some point.

Dax

Dax, we can't thank you enough for the photos. Oldest son started on the GH assembly this morning; at 1:50 the frame is complete and he's working on the door! No panels in yet, as we decided to complete the frame, place it on the 2x10 foundation, make any necessary adjustments, then put in the panels.

I helped a little, but he's really carried it and I think he's just about made record time, thanks to your photos and descriptions, and everyone else's experiences, too. Our only problem has been that my printer's not working ... so we had to keep running in from the yard to check the site ... lol ... dog must think we're nuts ... this is where wireless would come in handy!

I'm wondering how soon I can move a chair and table in there without looking like a complete fool :-)

Ken & Sue in Glassboro ... how are you doing with yours?

Thanks again, everyone.

Diane

couldn't have done it without you dax well may we could have but it would have taken a lot longer
thanks

Trying to get it ready for colder weather now, and searching for info on sealing any gaps and especially installing a solar pool cover. Specifically, how does one vent this with the cover on? If anyone can direct me to the right thread, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!

Our 15 year old started the frame and stopped, thinking I had to build the wood foundation first -- he is away at a friends for a few days -- we want to do the frame first to be sure the 2 x 12 foundation is a perfect fit and then we will attach it to the base, put in the panels, etc. Hoping to have it done within the next week.

Ken & Sue in Glassboro, NJ

Wonderful that your 15-year-old was willing to take that on! I wish my 16-year-old twins had more interest, though they're beginning to show a little more now that it's up. Surely some great science experiment possibilities there. (At least one of the gh distributor sites has a special section for schools, including project material for classroom use ... worth checking out if a science project is assigned.)

We ended up doing the same: completing the frame then setting it on the foundation. We found the 1/2 x 1 inch strips the directions called for were unnecessary. We did put a layer of foam insulation between the foundation and frame - both to help seal any gaps and prevent a chemical reaction between the aluminum and treated lumber. Those 2x12's are going to make a world of difference for you! It's amazing how much the panels do to firm up the frame.

I wish I could come up with some new hints or tips to share, but nothing yet.

I've got a few things moved in there, even though the shelves aren't finished yet, so hope I can get it tightened up before Thursday night's predicted 29 degrees.

Good luck on completing the gh - it's fun when it really begins to take shape!

Dax,

A million thank you's for posting this. We would not have made it through the day without it. It only took us from 9am to 3pm to get it up, it would have taken a whole weekend with out it.

THANK YOU SO MUCH!

Roxy and her Fiance

Now we just have to get the floor figured out and get the benches in. But I need a nap first, phew!

You're welcome guys!

Good stories here.

Best Regards,

Dax

I love the Benches/tables you picked up at lowes.. They would be perfect for my greenhouse. Are they actualy Benches, Tables or shelves? I was wondering where in Lowes I should look for them.

I keep seeing comments such as ..............

CAUTION - BONDING AND COMPATIBILITY (all laminates containing polycarbonate)

* Certain sealants and adhesives may not be compatible with the polycarbonate material. Crazing of polycarbonate may result when improper adhesive or sealant materials are in contact with, or close to the polycarbonate, edges and surfaces included. Edge sealants applied by Saint-Gobain Sully on glass edges are not a protection against non-compatible sealants and adhesives. As a consequence, avoid any direct contact between the gluing sealant and the polycarbonate.

Perhaps the 'correct' sealant needs to be used.

How do you post pictures in your message?

I'm gonna start putting my 6x8 HFGH up this weekend. I'll try to get lots of pics too. If anyone needs anything special, let me know...

Mike...

Got the HFGH up this weekend. Turned out nice. The 6x8 is the perfect size. The photo shoot started out good enough, but then the rains came... Yes, we continued in the rain... I'm so glad we did, cause the next two nights were really cold...

Here's how it fits into our yard...

{{gwi:306957}}

Now to dig out that Solar Greenhouse book and figure out how to store that thermal energy.

Mike...

i just ordered this greenhouse and can't thank you enough for step by step instructions. One question i have is do you need to caulk in the panels or was just a step you took to seal in the panels. where about in illinois do you live?

I don't know. I didn't read about it or ask before doing the caulking. I just assumed I wanted that thing airtight and rigid. Rigid being first.

I caulked it inside and out I believe.

I'm in Rock Island, IL.

Glad to be of help:):)

Dax

well my gh kit arrived but now having a icy weekend so will wait till the weather clears. i have the base built so just need assembly. I live in Belleville 20 miles east of st.louis mo

Oh My Gosh.... my daughter and I have been assembling our HF 10'X12' greenhouse and what a job...Have been working on it for a couple of weekends..have the frame up and now have to do the doors and windows... all of the pictures on here have been a help, plus I had to make a call to the 800 number and they emailed me more pics to help with assembly.I think they change up things from time to time because some of the directions didn't add up...in fact their directions are HORRIBLE. If anyone needs me to take a pic of any area email me and I will. Dottie

I Have 3 HFGH's 2--10X12, 1--6X8. Love them all and had no problem putting any of them together by myself. Husband thought that I was crazy for wanting greenhouses in FL but it gets cold here in the winter. I grow tomatoes, green peppers and egg plant all winter. I also start seed in Feb so I don't have to buy from garden supplies here. I spend to much money that way. I start abot 2000 plants every year. Give alot of them away to friends.
Love you greenhouses and don't know what I ever did without them. I'm now retired so I have all the time in the world to be out ther doing what I love.

new flyer from Harbor Freight list a 10X12 greenhouse on sale for 599.00 down from 719.00 thru 02/26/2007.

Is this the best price I am likely to find ?

Wayne,

They offer this price almost every month. In the past year I have yet to see anything else.

MollyD

Dax/Conifers...

I just wanted to say "You Rock!!!" for putting this post up on GW!

(Plus, I want to keep this thread "active" for any other GH Newbies tackling this project!)

We've *almost* completed construction of my 6x8 HFGH (it's only taken 2 months!!!). Prior to starting construction, I printed up HFGH's instructions *AND* your illustrated instructions. I went back-and-forth between the two print-outs throughout construction (Yours - without a doubt - were FAR better!!!).

Anyway... I just wanted to post a most sincere "THANK YOU" for posting this!!! I can't even begin to tell you how helpful it was!!!

-Nancy (aka imqtpi)

Yes Nancy, Dax's are the best.:)

Dave
Milwaukee

Dave, you're still the rage of freestyle HF greenhouse construction. I give you an 88.3 for uncorking the mystery of why constuction tools will be less associated with the art of the so-called woman and soon to be more associated with the woman's perception of taking over 'the man's world' wearing tool belts, spitting in puddles, and drinking beer from a bottle. I'm thinking man in bikini sporting gold necklace and grey hair. The good ole' boys...

Of course, my father has always taught me to be think before I rush into any project and I think that is relatively easy to see exactly that this step-by-step ordeal came out real good and that also this greenhouse came out beautifully.

Nancy, I'm proud to add to the "manual" to help these idiots re-invent the written language and to dot all the "i's" and cross all the "t's" for them! hahaha - hehehe - hohoho! Plus I'm glad there's a greenhouse that anyone can afford, poor or rich for that matter, and that we all get a glimpse of the good life.

Our health is # 1!

Dax

I am saving this link as I am about to order my first HFGH and want to thank Dax for the wonderful instructions! I know I will be referring to these quite often when I get started

Laurrie

Hi! I have a 6x8 that I am putting together right now, but first thing that I've had trouble with is the frame size that the greenhouse sits on. In the instructions the measurements are 75x971/2 but its actually somthing like 75x 99 or so.... did anyone have this sort of problem????? Or did I do something wrong? As many have already said the instructions that comes with the greenhouse are truly horrible!!!!

The size is off a few inches. We had to add a 2X4 at one end. The instructions are awful.

Hi Dax,

My husband and I built this greenhouse two weeks ago. Last night we had a storm and it blew out 8 panels, two are gone. Any suggestions and where to go to replace them and have you found a way to make a greenhouse wind proof?

Thanks,
Kelly

Hi all - just found this site and wanted it to stay up a while longer... If I would have had these instructions when I put up my 10 by 12 HFGH - it would have saved a lot of headaches for my husband. However, it has been up for over 2 years now (nasty winters included). I still love it!!! We have it heated with natural gas - a little pricy this past winter, but my plants don't like the cold! lol Anyway, during the winter we completely cover the GH with painter's clear drop cloth. It helps hold in the heat. Also, I didn't seal it with silicone, and not once did any panels blow away. I guess I'm lucky for that. Also, this winter I "insulated" it with bubble wrap. I also use old fish tanks and fill them with water to contain the heat from the sun during the day. Not too sure if that helps, but it doesn't get too cold in there, so I'm not going to get rid of them any time soon. As for getting replacement panels, can you try to contact the company (if you haven't already) to get new ones from them?

Happy planting all!!! Angie

It might be that I should start a new thread, but since I am asking about HF greenhouses, here goes:

I have a south-facing brick wall of a shed I would like to use as part of a greenhouse structure. It is 22 feet long but only 8 feet high, and the roof is a 2/10 pitch. In looking for materials to use, I found this and other threads that indicate the HF greenhouses are about the best buy going. I was wondering if I could split a 10x12 and make a 5x20 lean-to greenhouse. I figure I'd have to change the roof pitch and probably find some extra aluminum H channel, but even so the price for equivalent components might make this a viable option. Anyone done something similar?

Chuck

Hi Chuck,
I love my HFGH 10x12, but I think splitting it in two to make a 5x20 lean-to would require a huge amount of rethinking and re-engineering. The roof pitch in the kit is predetermined by angle brackets at the corners, and by a formed angle in the framing piece at the top of the side wall; I don't think you could use that major component if you changed the roof pitch. The framework really doesn't lend itself to cutting the structure in two as far as critical bracing. Not saying it couldn't be done (anything is possible for hard workers!) but personally my husband and I think you'd be better off to consider building your own structure (which would allow you to go wider than 5' if you wanted.) It's nice you will have a solid structure to anchor to.

I now know the twinwall polycarbonate panels that come with the HFGH kits will not last more than a few years in my own sunny climate, due to (in my opinion) a lack of UV protection, even though HF continues to advertise otherwise. The panels represent a huge part of the value of the kit, since true UV protected twinwall polycarbonate is expensive, so I now advise folks to take this into consideration, depending on climate, when they consider the kit.

Some of the close-up photos in my blog may help you see what I mean about the pre-formed angles in the aluminum framing at the GH corners: Mudhouse blog for 10x12 HFGH

Also, here's a link to a helpful site with many links to info about building your own greenhouse: Free plans for building greenhouses and solar spaces

I also agree, I'd encourage you to start a new thread to get more opinions from other folks...lots of folks here more knowledgeable than me, and some of these older threads with many slow-to-load pics get skipped by folks who might be very helpful to you.
Sheri

My question is I just put together a 10x12 HFGH. I need to install panels and some homemade supports but I must be blind. I have on the front doors rubbers pieces that are flapping around a foot long like extra rubber. I can't see where this is supposed to go?? They are attached to pieces number 33, They have a slot in them like they are to slide on something. Need a little help on this.
Also, where do you buy your Bayliss openers for the roof?
thanks, Ken

Hello Ken, I just sent you an email also, but will do a shorter reply here in case you see this first.

It's been over 8 years since we built our Harbor Freight 10x12, but your question made me remember that I had maybe 3-4" extra inches of black rubber door gasket, extending past the top edge of the door. The door gasket is only supposed to be the same length as the door. It forms one vertical strip, top to bottom, and when it's in place properly, it will match the door frame exactly. No excess at top or bottom.

This will sound odd, but I have a memory of simply wiggling and "walking back" the excess gasket into the groove, without have to trim off any excess. I just kept compressing and moving it back, until it all fit.

It's better to do this than to cut off much excess, because over time, the rubber gasket may shrink a bit. Mine have, after 8 years of exposure to our very hot summers. They now stop a bit shy of both the top and bottom of the doors, but they used to be exactly level with the top and bottom. So, see if you can "walk back" the extra gasket, before you trim off any extra. Hope this helps.

Do you know if there is anything that would prohibit me from moving the base frame back on the 4x4 base so the front plate does not hang out over the edge? In your picture i do not see anything on the bottom of the door on the 6x8 GH that hooks underneath. The pics on the 10x12 model show a little black hook (part #51). I do not see a similar piece for the 6x8 model.

HELP , My two pices 28,29 are to

Long ??