Return to the Tips & Techniques Forum
| Post a Follow-Up
stump removal
| | |
Posted by Mark Johnson (nos4john@hotmail.com) on Sun, Apr 15, 01 at 12:44
| I have two large trees that have blown over last yeat and i want to remove the ugly root ball and stump that is sticking out of the ground.. I have allready gone through two chains on my saw and have sore back from all the digging and axe work.. the area is near a creek and hard to get to for use of any machines to grind them away..any sugestions on burning or your tricks..... |
Follow-Up Postings:
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I have read on here there is something called Stump Remover. Look at the farm supply store. I am half fire bug so I would try burning it down.Pile charcoals on it and kerosene and start burning. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Last year my husband & I had to cut down some lombardy popular trees that were pretty tall. ( don't ever plant these, they were starting to grow under our neighbors driveway) And I found some stuff at Wal-mart that said it would kill brush & trees. I think it was Brush-b-gon?! Just brush on stump with paintbrush about 2 or 3 times, done a great job! Hope this helps! |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I'm intrigued by this, as I'd like to save the cost of having someone come out and drill out the stump of my dead maple tree. I'm sure something will kill the growth of trees, the question is how do you get the stump out so you can sod on top of it? |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I have had removed several HUGE tree stumps that would cost a fortune to have hauled away to the dump. We want to burn them but are afraid that we will have a huge conflagration on ouor hands that will last many days and nights (no sleep keeping vigilance). How does one safely burn these monsters? |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I read somewhere a few years ago, that you can drill large holes in tree stumps, fill them with high nitrogen fertilizer, moisten it, and they would basically rot at an accelerated speed. Maybe the high nitrogen starts breaking down the organic matter in the stump and reduces it like comosting??? Have never tried it, but it might be worth trying. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| What you do is drill holes in the stump, fill it with water, cover it with plastic, mulch over it and give nature a couple of years. turns into a fantastic bed for anything. The only quick way is a professional stump grinder. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
Availability of nitrogen is the rate-limiting factor in the breakdown of all woody materials, such as stumps, hardwood mulch, etc. Drilling holes & filling with a high nitrogen fertilizer, such as ammonium nitrate will accelerate decomposition of the stump. In the Amish dairy country, they back their manure wagons up to stumps in newly-cleared pastures, bury the stump underneath a pile of fresh cow/horse manure, and within a year or two, it will have rotted sufficiently that they can hitch to it with a team of horses, and out it comes. Guess if you wanted it to rot away completely, it'd take a bit longer, and maybe another application of manure. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| My father owns some property with a lot of trees with one or two always dying. Once he cuts a tree down he places a 55 gallon drum with its bottom cut off over the stump. He then fills it with firewood and lights it. The hot embers from the firewood slowly work their way through the stump and follow the roots a foot or two into the ground. It takes a full day and he's also out in the middle of nowhere with no municiple restrictions. If you can do this it's definitely fast and effective. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| When I remove a stump I burn it. I go to a local company that gets rid of scrap pallet wood. I start a fire on top and after a few hours I pull away the coals and scrape off the top. I am able to get about two to three inches off. I then start the fire again and repeat the process. I don't leave the coals burning at night and I don't drill holes. I don't use charcoal because that turns to dust and prevents the hot coals from the wood to burn the stump. It took me two days to get my stumps six inches underground. I didn't have to put much effort in except for the occasional scrape. Make sure you have a decent fire on top and plenty of hot coals smoldering on top. Mike Straub |
RE: stump removal
| | |
I have had the suggestion offerred to me to drill holes, fill with molasses and let the ants do the work. May take some time though. Also, drill, fill and soak with diesel and burn. Mike |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Ammonia apparently turns to nitrogen in soil....could you drill holes and pour in ammonia?? Probably wouldn't hurt, and is pretty cheap. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I haven't tried this but have heard that it works. Like Mike suggested...drill holes in the stumps. Pour diesel fuel in them...cover with plastic to keep out the moisture...refill with diesel fuel...cover, refill with diesel fuel. The fuel is absorbed down into the root system. Then when you burn it, the roots are also burned. Supposedly, only the top part really burns, the roots just smolter (?). Please let me know your results if you use this method. Thanks |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I have heard to drill holes and fill with buttermilk...couldn't hurt. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I've heard drill the holes, fill with stump remover (which is potassium nitrate- you can buy a 1 lb pkg "stump remover" for $5 or a 50 lb bag potassium nitrate fertilizer for $20) then soak with diesel or kerosene and burn. Heard it from my wife's grandma a 30 yr+ California nurserywoman. Of course nowadays the label on the stump remover leaves out the soaking with fuel and burning part, with just the nitrate you do accelerate the rotting process. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| DO NOT use diesel fuel and fertilizer. I repeat DO NOT. That is the same combo used by McVeigh in the Colorado bombing. Please research something before you do it. Don't go by hear say. Talk to someone that has first hand experience in doing something. Not that I heard thru so and so that someone else heard that someone did it. Use the barrel method with wood or charcoal and over a period of a few weeks you can have it burnt out. Just remove the ashes before you start another fire. And dispose of the ashes properly and safely. Kevin |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Kevin, you are right that people should research something first but stump remover and diesel is not dangerous in the way you describe. Gasoline is dangerous and explosive if handled improperly. It is not explosive under normal circumstances. What you describe needs a blasting cap to set it off. If you light it all that happens is it burns. Same as gasoline. Stump remover does work but it is not a miracle worker. It doesn't work well on wet freshly cut stumps. If you have a stump that has been sitting for a while and is dry you can drill the holes and soak it with stump remover (potassium nitrate) and then after it rots some in a couple of weeks soak it with kerosene or diesel. It will burn and get most of the roots. I can see cases where this might be needed but I advise much more strongly to do as TDale suggests and just cover it and let it rot for a couple of years. Nothing is going to explode but do you really want to pour a bunch of diesel in your field? Jim |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| My stump that needs removing is close to a propane tank. Lighting it on fire won't work for me. I'll try drilling holes and putting the water in. Safer and better for the environment........... |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Just drilling the stump so water soaks in easier and further will help a lot, especially if you keep it wet. I'll also take chunks of various fungi growing on downed trees out in the woods and put it on stumps I'm wanting to rot away faster. The stump remover stuff really speeds up the process, if it is just repackaged fertilizer (going to read a jar when I get home) I'm going to feel like a fool for spending so much for it over the past 2 years and having to limit which stumps I use it on. Stumps that have been chosen as the dumping target for the loads of mushroom dirt I've hauled in or a compost pile have all very rapidly been reduced to a very sad state, even if it started as a "fresh" stump. When ready to go (Crumbly inside) I will sometimes soak with some deisel a day or two before splashing a little more deisel and burning it out. Be sure to scrape off the ash occasionally, and when its finally done smouldering I use a pick to make sure there are not "hidden" holes than need to be exposed before backfilling and leveling with the surrounding soil. Sometimes I've had a "crust" form hiding holes following root channels that drop away a foot or more, dangerous if stepped on later expecting solid ground. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| This is not a method of removal, but my neighbor planted stuff on top of the stump and it looks great. If the roots are up ended I would think you might be able to plant morning glories on it. It would be less of an eye sore but still there obviously. Is it really a good idea to put deisel fuel on the stumps? Wouldn't that soak into the soil too and possibly contaminate water? |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I guess contamination with diesel is going to concern people differently depending on how much space they have and how much diesel they are using. I only use it on stumps that are rotten to the point of being a lot like sponges, and pour it in such a way that its all contained by the stump cavity, and keep it to a reasonable amount. Since I burn it off within 24 hours (sometimes within 20 minutes if I'm sure the stump just needs a jump-start to get burning good without much soak time), it does not have time to wander far from the stump, and burning a stump heats the surrounding soil enough to cause any diesel that does soak out to break down, especially since the remnant vessels in the stump and the outer barkt layer are going to keep the diesel more or less contained. However, I don't use this method in or near sensitive areas - say within 100' of my wellhead or 50' of places I'm going to be planting edibles, but I'm on 11 acres so I have that sort of room. I would not use gasoline, that stuff is a lot more toxic than diesel, and fumes more so it would drift further into the soil. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| We had some stumps to remove last year. Our neighbor has a tractor and we tried without luck to dig/pull them up. My neightbor suggested we douse them with diesel and burn them, which we did. About 12 hours later the fire was out, the tree was still standing and we went inside. 4-5 hours after that we heard this loud thud and ran to the window, only to find the tree had finally fallen - right on top of the neighbors tractor (he assured us it would fall in the opposite direction and left his trackor parked there)!!! LOL Fortunatly the tractor was OK and since it was the nighbor's idea he couldn't blame us for the whole thing! I guess you can say it worked well. Just make sure the ground is very wet around the tree and there is nothing close to it! We were left with a nice hole in which to plant a new tree. Good luck! |
Plan 'B'
| | |
| My Dad just cuts them off at 'chair' level, sands them down to level or slightly curved and uses them for seating in the yard! It works pretty well! |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I have an "old timer" friend who is very wise with many things. He once told me to drill holes in a stump and fill them with, MILK! NO JOKE! He said the bacteria that forms from the milk will aid in the decay of the stump. I have never tried it, but it sounds more environmently friendly than pouring diesel into the ground, especially if you have well water. Regards! Marty |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Why remove them at all? Sounds like an awful lot of work to me. Let nature take its course. Stumps provide habitats for all sorts of critters and insects. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| A back hoe of some strength will get those suckers up. we just did nine this weekend to our delight, knowing how much a stump grinder person would cost and how long the chemicals would take. cheers, clearsky |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Best watch your burning with this drought. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Also, remember the diesel fuel & gasoline are contaminating the soil for many years. If you plan on planting anything there or nearby, I'd think twice. That milk & buttermilk idea sounds interesting. :-) |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| From what I understand, diesel fuel does work. But, when I was in the home buiding business, the landscapers would only refuel their machines where the driveway was going because grass would not grow where diesel was spilled. I did notice that what they said was true. Can anyone else help confirm this? |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Diesel poured on a plant kills it dead and prevents growth there until its concentration is reduced. However, burning a stump will sterilize the soil for a while anyway, and I use teh possibly contaminated surface soil from right around the stump to fill the bottom of the hole and cover the greater portion of the ash, then scrape dirt around to fill the rest of the hole. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I'm glad I found this thread. I had a couple stumps in the front yard from fallen slash pines. Was beginning to think I'd have to leave them there forever.. because I'm not currently willing to pay someone just to grind up two smaller stumps. (I have way too many things to spend money on this summer as it is.. *grin* painting the house, re-grading and covering the driveway, recovering a lawn that's suffered almost 20 years of basic care at best, etc.) Grabbed ye olde corded Black n Decker, and went to work on the stumps. By the second stump, it yanked the bit right out of the drill.. but I got enough holes in both of them that I was able to dump some milk into them. We'll see how it works. By the same reasoning as using milk/buttermilk, wouldn't yogurt also work? (not gonna dump diesel into the ground when I have a well nearby) |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Any nitrogen source combined with moisture will help. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| My stump is right next to my wife's vegetable garden. I am leaning towards killing the stump with saltpeter, and then burning the stump with a fire in a cut up 55 gallon drum. Any thoughts? Will the saltpeter contaminate the soil? Thanks, Bob |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Just the fire will kill the stump as well as the saltpeter. Plus its harder to buy saltpeter in bulk now becasue of its uses in creating explosives. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I have an huge old stump in my side yard. It looks like its been there for a while. There's now a honey covered fungus growing all over it. Ants have attacked it too. I want to do something about it. Does anyone know what the honey or yellow growths are? and should I try to kill it? If so what method? I can't really burn as I am in the city limits. What would be the cost of stump removal for a fairly large stump like that? thanks, Erica |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| The growths (either a fungus or a slime mold) are eating the stump, leave them if your eventual goal is to get rid of the stump. For me, professional stump removal is too expensive to pursue, but I'm broke and have a fairly high tolerance for letting old stumps sit around. If its to the point the fungi are growing well, its only a few years from breaking down to a point that a sledgehammer could break it up, try knocking holes in the outer hhell and see how much is still solid. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Well...based on everything I've read here and heard over the years...I'm going to do an experiment. I'm cutting down 3 large poplars, and will drill holes in the stumps. I'll try the salt-peter in one, buttermilk in another, and milk in the last one just for fun...and see what happens. I won't use the diesel/burn method....for various reasons. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| How can anyone seriously consider pouring a toxic substance like diesel fuel into the ground. Ok, ok, I'll know you say it's the stump, but let's be real...anything poured into anything in the ground, gets in the ground. How much more do we need to unnecessarily pollute our environment before we realize that all of our small actions were responsible for a much less hospitable planet. I came onto this thread because we just lost one of the last surviving elm trees in this country, and I wanted to learn how we might remove the stump. As far as I can tell, nature (with some help from a NATURALLY occurring element like nitrogen) can do a safe job of it in a couple of years, or, we can accelerate the process with diesel. I can't believe that virtually everyone couldn't live with the stump for a couple of years. I'm not concerned about permanent contamination in my lifetime, but in the lifetime of my 18 nieces and nephews. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I've removed several stumps, both in the ground and pulled, Some were 2-3' trees. There is a nifty trick here. It takes some light work with a chain saw, and maybe an shovel or pick if its in the ground. The trick to burning a stump without using a cord of wood or a barrel is to get the fire burning down the middle of the stump. So, you have to get a chimney effect going, with a source of air at the bottom. If the stump is still in the ground, or has a rootball attached, dig out between the roots as far down as you can, and preferably in a 2-3 different places depending on the size. Make sure you clear any stones out, and follow the bark all the way down. Then cut the stump from edge to center with your chain saw, and connect all the cuts in the center. Now your fire will burn inside the tree and have more exposed surfaces to drive out any moisture. If you're good, you can use your saw to cut out a hole in the center, but its really not necessary. Just watch for (sparks) cutting into stones that might be imbedded in the base of the stump. Its best if you can see where you are cutting, or at least have a good guess. You can use kerosene or diesel if you wish, or just wood or charcoal. If you need to, use a large coffee can on top to get it started, and let the hot coals drop down into the cuts. Clear out ash as needed, perhaps using a length of thin pipe to blow out the dust. A key factor here is the moisture content of the wood and the amout of rot. Rotted wood will not support a fire like solid wood. However, if you get the dirt off of a rootball, and let it sit for a few weeks, it will be much dryer. I've heard that green wood is 90% water by weight, dry wood is 10% moisture. So any moisture you can get rid of before you get started, the better it will go. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| No help in removal,but this is what I do to keep stump from sucking out,works great on Poplar stumps.Cut a bowl into stump with a chainsaw,fell with rocksalt and water.Keep it full of both.Will need to water more than add salt.Draws the salt water into the roots and kills the stump.I've done this many,many times.I'm doing it to an oak stump now.Just cut some poplar trees.They are next. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I'm so glad someone revived this thread. I've had a good laugh at some of the ideas and reactions! |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| We really must amuse the aliens, they're watching you know. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Hi! What people will do to remove a stump! Found these all quite interesting and amusing... Are people that grind stumps in your area that expensive, or do you not have any in your areas? A blow over stump is quite a problem, I wonder if Mark has had any luck getting his stump out safely yet? |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I see its been a while since some of you tried these tips. Have any of them worked? I have 5 Hybrid Popular stumps to get rid of. Thanks! |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I discovered that "Stump Remover" really was just high nitrogen fertilizer designed to speed up composting. So, I bouthg a bag of ammonium nitrate and poured some on all teh stumps I had and watered it in enough to dissolve it a bit and wash it into existing cracks and holes I tried pouring the granules into. It caused a notable acceleration in decomposition on any stump I tried it on, especially in the areas where there was a higher concentration of fertilizerI've got serveral stumps that were quite solid a year ago now about ready to have a sledge taken to the heartwood to break off the last bit of it that's reasonbly solid. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I use the saltpeter too, but it takes a winter to really soak in and rot the stump and I'm not that patient. I have been using the small stack of wet firewood on top the stump system, it burns off an inch or two each time. Then, two weeks ago, I tried using cottonwood logs to build the fire on top the stumps, just split about a 15 inch dia chunk in half, put some kindling in, and let it go. These burn pretty hot, enough difference that instead of 2 " it burned off 6". So a couple more times I now have big holes in the ground instead of stumps. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I cut down a dying weeping cherry Feb. 1, and then read this thread. Based on what I read, on Feb. 12 I put a 1" spade bit on my drill and drilled about three dozen holes as deep into it as the bit would go... on the holes closest to the outside, I also drilled a slanted side hole for air/water circulation. Then I poured about an ounce of ammonium nitrate (34-0-0) into each hole and followed with enough hot water to fill each hole (or flush out the side of some of the outside holes). I've been looking at the stump and into the holes periodically since then (part of the stump was already rotting, as the tree was dying of old age), and I can't really tell if there's rot there or not yet. But one day this week, I plan to get after it with a big, long 15/16th auger bit I copped for $2 at a flea market and/or level, or smooth, or cup it out with the chain saw... At this point, my goal isn't to totally remove it, but to get it closer to the ground (highest point is currently about 10" off the ground), and cup it out a bit in the middle. Then I'll add some potting soil and put some of the myriad flowers I started from seed this year in there and use it as an in-ground flower pot. I'll try to remember to let y'all know how it works. Happy Gardening! Jeff |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I would do the stump remover with the hole first, to be sure it is dead, then I would water it and also use coffee grounds free from starbucks, on it, and mulch all around, just keep up this treatment, but it will still take years to break down, if time is important, there is a tree service that will remove it, but it will cost a fortune. I don't think the buttermilk will work. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
I've looked through all the posts and was amused and intrigued. To add to the general amusement, but not too firmly tongue in cheek, I offer the following: Why not pop over to one of the on-line web pages and get some wooden dowels impregnated with mushroom spore? One place is: http://www.fungi.com/ I am not an employee and have no connection with the place but it seems like an idea that might work. If not, hey, there's always buttermilk! |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| So glad that I found you all. I lost a huge bradford pear in a ice storm. Going to cover it up and let nature do her thing. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Does anyone know if a stump left in the ground tends to attract termites? |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Hey Amy50 - Where do you think the diesel fuel came from? (hint - it wasn't from the moon) |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Just to let you all know, digging for three days, loosing Missouri clay with water and trying to pull a Maple stump (green) with a Honda Accord is not the solution. I hope you enjoy this, as I have bleeding hands, angry tires and a stump that will not go away. FYI: extremely small women should not have to swing a pick axe. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| The only old time stump removal trick not mentioned here is to drill several holes around the base and insert Dynomite and blow it out. Iv'e really enjoyed reading the post and have learned some new ones. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I've got a 30" diam/8" tall stump I want rid of. I just tried drilling 20 holes, 1 foot deep, 3/8" diam and filling with 30-4-4 fertilizer, then soaking good with water. Time will tell if it works. What struck me as funny...at ACE hardware, they had a 1 pound can of "Stump decomposer" or some such name for $6. I could not find ANY data on the can as to the chemicals inside...no active, inert, poison control info, etc. Seems funny in this day and age. Doug |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| We have had a stump beside our house since we moved in. I got tired of DH using it for a catch-all for his "junk" so I planted it! This pic was taken just after planting, the flowers have gone crazy since then, the impatiens are HUGE! |
Here is a link that might be useful: stump
RE: stump removal
| | |
i have a slightly more delicate situation. i have a nice plum tree, but it's shooting volunteers everywhere. i just removed two sizable shrubs/trees, 10 feet from the main tree, one of which was choking a struggling pomegranite. the stumps are out, but what can i apply to the source root to keep it from sprouting again? i don't want to poison it lest that damage the main tree. i just want to stunt it and stop it where it lies. i will try anything from buttermilk to paint to bearing grease.... thanks |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I drilled holes in two stumps about three years ago, and filled the holes with muriatic acid several times. Now the stumps are almost totally decayed. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
If we ever do manage to land on Mars, we can plant some Chinese Elms there to start reconditioning the planet. They seem to be resistant to any hardship and spread like crazy and keep coming back. We have been trying to get rid of Chinese Elm roots from a large tree we took out 3 years ago. The stump is gone but several roots grew far enough away (15 feet and more) to grow under the cement. No matter what we do, those roots are growing under there in the dark and grow out into the sun. Fire and diesel are out of the picture. Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks, if you do have an idea or two. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| hi folk, did you ever consider renting a stump remover...I rented one, for 24 hours, cost around $150...and in that time I took out over 50 stumps...True some were like 3-4" across, but overhalf of the were like 15-20" across...and had just been cut this year...it was simple, I just ran 3 little levers and I'm a ole lady, if I can do it, anybody can... But even the 3-4" stumps...once you get down below the ground a little they turn into like 7-10" across...A stump remover will take them down to 6" below ground.. I dout it would work on root balls etc, and you want your stump to only be 2-3" high but it works super slick.... One lady I know had a huge stump must be 2-3 feet across...she planted day lilies around it, and so you never see it in the summer, and in the winter, she uses it for a bird feeder... |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| We had a tree stump that we needed removed also ,,but instead we put a small pond around it we had the stairs which was a plastic mold lay on top of the stump and had the water run down into the pond we added moss on the stump base and rocks to hold the plastic in place turned out beautiful. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
Around here any stumps have to be dug up or ground out. TERMITES are a problem. Have a nice strong daughter who loves to dig out my smaller stumps using her shovel, hand saw, pruning shears and black and decker saw for the tougher roots. She will use every ounce of power and feels good when shes done. Now that shes in college and is not home 10 months out of the year I make sure I have it ready for her when she moves home for the summer. I tell her it's part of her room and board payment. HAHA! She has dug out stumps as big as 15-18 inches across. Saves me the cost of having to rent a stump grinder or tree service. We cut them down ourselves(Have a nice chain saw and strong son to help if the going get rough but, otherwise I LOVE to do myself) GOOD LUCK! MG |
RE: stump removal
| | |
How about this start by cutting the stump off as close to the ground as possable I can usually get it to two inches tall then take and dig around the stump as much as you can. take a circular saw and make cuts in about 1 inch apart turn 90 degrees and make more cuts about 1 inch apart now your stump is 1 inch squares about 3inches long take a hammer and break off these little squares if need be repeat the cutting and breaking again and the stump is now four inches below ground level. it take a little time but is safe for the enviroment or can be used where you can't burn. I think it is easier to saw than to drill. good luck Steve |
RE: stump removal with a saw
| | |
How about this start by cutting the stump off as close to the ground as possable I can usually get it to two inches tall then take and dig around the stump as much as you can. take a circular saw and make cuts in about 1 inch apart turn 90 degrees and make more cuts about 1 inch apart now your stump is 1 inch squares about 3inches long take a hammer and break off these little squares if need be repeat the cutting and breaking again and the stump is now four inches below ground level. it take a little time but is safe for the enviroment or can be used where you can't burn. I think it is easier to saw than to drill. good luck Steve |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| one way that will take out a stump is to use dynamite. You can get dynamite form a liscense dealer but you have to have a permit. These are pretty easy to get. Just go to www.atf.gov and click on explosives and arson. then go to forms. click on linited-use permit. download this .pdf and fill it out. send it in and u will be able to buy dynamite and remove all the stumps you want! Good Luck! |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Wow this is amusing reading. Several of these will work, but I'd suggest(if time is a factor) using an oxidizer(an aid to burning)like potassium nitrate(saltpeter)soaked into the wood via holes and water(saltpeter is HIGHLY water soluble)over several applications and several weeks. When a reasonable amount of SP has been soaked into the wood, and it's had some time to dry, place a 55 gal. drum over the stump with the top and bottom removed. Build a med. size fire in the barrel on the open top of the stump. The stump once ignited, becomes the fuel and the potassium nitrate the oxidizer--speeding up the rate of burn by an order of magnitude. The barrel serves to concentrate the heat and to contain the fire for safety. It's worked for me over several acres and many trees in the N.M. mountains. Good Luck!! |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Mark's original post indicated ball of roots sticking out of the ground. I don't know how far he is from a faucet, but in my own experience this gadget does marvels! see link below. We had a maple (20"+ at the base) blow over, raising half it's roots twelve feet into the air; the roots were literally entwined with rocks, stones, gravel and plain ol' clay. We went through what most others do when faced with this sort of mess - dulling axes & hatchets & mattocks, straining & spraining truck bumpers and human backs, and inventing new cuss words. Then it rained one day, and I passed a pleasant hour looking over catalogs. Saw this gadget and a light bulb went off - long story short: ordered it, used it to power-spray (a section at a time) the roots which were then clean enough to be safely sawed, and (working a couple hours a day) in about 2 weeks *by myself* was able to remove enough root to totally separate the stump from the ground. |
Here is a link that might be useful: water power
RE: stump removal
| | |
| In 1985, Hurricane Gloria came and knocked over and snapped my favorite tree, a large weeping willow. I really liked that tree, wanted to put a bench beneath it for a sitting area. After the broken part was cut up and carted away, I insisted in leaving the stump, hoping it would grow shoots from the roots. Well, slowly over the years, the stump just disappeared. Instead of fooling around with gasoline or dynamite. YIKES!!!lLeave it alone, let nature take its course. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| The cost of a stump to be ground down with a stump grinder is very little...on average $100-250. Then you don't have the sunken hole in the lawn after the stump rots. you have some mulch left after the grinding and you only need to fill the hole with some loam or compost. A Little seed and your done! You don't have to wait for three or four years for it to biograte. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| For those who have sprouts coming up from old stumps- repeated & very regular pruning will win the day. But I've also heard round-up will work, as it is systemic. For removing old stumps without blowing up anyone, poisoning everything, cut stump as close to ground as possible, drill the holes, put some compost or manure, then a layer of mulch. Put a large container over it and plant some flowers. The moisture from covering the stump with mulch speeds decomposition, as well as the nitrogen. (The stuff at the bottom of my compost pile decomposes first.) Manure or compost add the microbes that do the job. The flower container on top just provides something nice to look at, so the stump isn't bugging you every time you see it. If the stump can't be cut off close to the ground and buried under mulch, it can take many years. But keeping the stump moist will hasten the process, so setting a flower container on top will help with keeping it moist. My stumps disappeared entirely in four years. One took five years, as we tried burning it first. The burning seemed to sterilize it, and it took awhile for the fungus to take hold. The milk or buttermilk sounds promising too. I don't think diesel, gasoline or other ignitables will support much gardening in those spots in the future, whearas the decomposed stump will provide lots of wonderful soil building. And, since the roots eventually decompose way deep in the ground, it's a great opportunity to get organic matter deep in the ground. (Cover cropping the Paul Bunyan way.) Just another thought- if this might be a good spot for a compost heap, that would take care of the stump. You might not even have to cut it as close to the ground. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I just had a big old oak tree cut down this year and am left with a stump. I was wondering if it will grow any sprouts next spring and if so would they be viable to grow into a strong new tree or if it did sprout would they never amount to much? Just was fascinated by the idea so I thought I"d see what happened. |
large stump removal
| | |
| We need several large oak tree stumps removed to have a foundation dug. My husband wants to remove the stumps himself with a back hoe. I think hes craaaazy. Is it possible he can do this job? I really need some guidance. Does anyone know what a fair price is to remove approx. 15 stumps in various sizes. The larges stumps are from 100 ft oaks. Thanks |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I read on a birder site a guy hollowed out the top of his stump like a shallow bowl. Filled it with water. He said it was the most popular bird bath he ever had |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I just had a 50 year-old Maple tree taken out, since it was too close to my house and much too large for my small city garden. Now I have a stump, about three foot in diameter. I like the stump, but I want to make sure that the roots cease growing as soon as possible. How do I do this? It is still much too green to imagine drilling into it, and herbicides are probably out of the question, since I have plants next to the stump. A stump driller cannot get near to it, and in any case, I want to keep the stump, if possible |
RE: stump removal
| | |
o.k., the milk thing might work but lets take it one better. My stump plan, drive to your local supermarket, buy 10 or more gallons of whole milk, on your way home stop by the animal shelter and adopt every cat in the place. When you get home dig a moat around the stump and whittle out a bowl as large as possible in the center of the stump. Repeatedly fill the moat and bowl with milk and let nature take its course. With a keg of beer and several lawnchairs/tailgates, this can be days of entertainment for you and your inbred redneck friends. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I have found a fool proof way to remove even the largest sump, and it only requires drilling one hole: Take a 2 inch ship auger, 18 inches in length. You will need a heavy duty drill, like a Milwaukee Hole Shooter. Drill the hole vertically in the exact center on the stump. Don't worry if you happen to go through the stump and hit dirt: all the better. Now place a stick of dynamite down the hole with a long fuse. Light that baby and run like hell! Works for me every time. -BZ |
RE: stump removal
| | |
Yep, works every time! Except for the other day when Clarence came by for a chat. Took a seat right there on the sane stump I just stuffed full. Blew his bung hole clear to Kentucky. Guess Clarence won't be coming by too much now. At least his bung hole won't! |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| The milk idea might work, but it would have to be milk straight from the cow. Any milk you buy in retail or wholesale wouldn't work. Once upon a time, milk would only last on the shelf for a day. The bacteria in the milk would break down the organic substances. This is the bacteria you need to break down the stump. These days the processing of milk kills most, if not all, of this bacteria. Whole milk won't do (it's not about the cream), and organic milk won't work either (that's just free of growth hormones). You would have to buy it straight from a dairy farm, and only buy as much as you plan to use that day. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
Hi, I am thinking of treating a stump with nitrogen. Will the nitrogen ruin nearby flower / shrub plantings? THanks B |
RE: stump removal
| | |
Let's see if I can top the previous posts :) I am fortunate to live on 15 acres in a remote area (Island in the ocean off the Maine coast.) I have MAJOR stump problems. Mature forest with regular blowdowns and many dead trees that must be cut down. First, that mystery bottle of stump remover mentioned in another post is VERY likely saltpeter (potassium nitrate). I got my first bottle at Wal Mart and am still wondering how they get away with charging THAT MUCH for a little bottle! I consider myself an EXPERT at stump removal. I've tried ALL the methods mentioned above except the dynamite. (I tried pipe bombs with black powder instead. Not particularly effective.) With all due respect to the granolas who are all a-titter about the deisel oil, it is my favorite. It works just fine, and, if used judiciously will ALL burn up and leave no 'pollutants' in the ground. My problem was the excessive cost of the saltpeter to disolve in water and pour into the holes I drill into the stumps. The deisel is cheap. I use regular home heating oil from my tank. For saltpeter? Well, let's just say that I use 'recycled' material that I apply to the stump I'm attacking every morning after I get up. You see, I remembered reading that during the civil war, gunpowder was scarce because there was a shortage of saltpeter that was used by the army to make the compound. (Gunpowder is simply made from Saltpeter, sulphur and charcoal.) The solution was to collect the soldier's urine and evaporate it to obtain the needed material! That's right folks ... every morning I pee on the offending stump! After a couple of weeks, in goes the fuel oil and a week later I touch off the stump. As many have noted above, it will burn VERY slowly and thoroughly over several days. The saltpeter doesn't decompose the wood so much as acting as a very effective oxidizer to keep the slow burn going. It almost always gets the ENTIRE stump and ALL the roots.And, BTW guys, this provides you with an excellent excuse to tell your wife why you need to bring home a few extra six packs of Bud next week. Admittedly, this might not be a preferred method if you live in an upscale suburban neighborhood :) But, believe me, IT WORKS !!!! |
RE: stump removal
| | |
After reading nearly all the postings since 2001...I think stump removal should get olympic competition status...summer or winter is the question... reciprocating saw with the "ugly" blade has been my solution... dig down, around lateral roots, maybe flush as in with water and saw lateral roots then use a pry bar bigger than I am. Takes a few days using the high pressure nozzle water method... so the muck can dry in between sawing. (hacking with ax, drilling and sawing..... all used.) Living in a domesticated area. Have also hired the job out if there are multiple stumps ... if in the city be sure to call the underground utility finder free service in your area so you don't cut into a gas line etc... can get expensive! I am curious to hear about Buckminister's 3 poplar stump tests. Also, can relate to the honda accord story.... we burnt the transmission up in nissan pu pulling out a lowly lying juniper! Stump grinder would have cost much less! |
RE: stump removal
| | |
My problem isn't so much the stump - I was happy to have it as part of my garden...my problem is it is sprouting all over the place and I cut the sprouts back every 10 days when they are 18" high! very tired of trimming off sprouts and there seem to be more each time I do this. Suggestions? |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| I have quite a bit of experience with stumps and recommend having a professional stump grinding service performed. We specialize in it. Check out the web-site at http://www.removemystump.com. |
Here is a link that might be useful: Stump Grinding Services by Uncle Stumpy
RE: stump removal
| | |
Americans seem to like making an easy task complicated! I have been cutting down trees for over forty years and still use the method I was taught by an old Scottish gentleman, Mr. Watt, who with his typical Scottish frugality, always found the cheapest way to do something - even though it may involve a bit of extra effort. (Think of the exercise as a bonus!!) First of all, do not leave yourself a stump! Why do you always want to separate the tree from its roots? That is where your problem starts! The biggest asset that you have is that a tree trunk is a very useful lever. Beginning to get a clue? Going back to Scotland and Mr. Watt's estate, we never "cut" a tree down, rather, we always pulled it over - sometimes very precisely between two very close buildings. But I digress, if you do "cut" a tree down, leave about 10 foot of trunk remaining. Then, about two feet from the base start to dig down, and every time you encounter a large root, cut through it. (This is where you get the bonus exercise!) A good sharp axe works well, but if you are careful, you can also use the tip of a chainsaw (not normally the part you use, so be VERY careful) to cut through most of it. By the time you have gone all the way round, your chain saw will be dull, but $25 for a new chain is only a fraction of the cost of renting a stump grinder. Don't worry about the fabled "tap-route" - they do not exist! (Ever seen one in a tree that has been blown over?) Once you have cut all the big roots you can see, attach a very strong rope as high as you can to the trunk (I use a one inch nylon rope doubled - the little bit of stretch is useful.) and pull the sucker over with one of those giant SUVs all you Yanks seem to have. Personally, I use either my Landcruiser or my 90 HP (only) Pinzgauer. The 10 or 12 foot of leverage multiplies your pulling power many times over. (Do not "snatch" with a chain - you may break it off low and then you are back to a stump!!) Sometimes, after you take up the strain, a couple of extra roots are revealed to cut through, but with each one, the tree leans more and it gets easier. The ONLY time this method has not worked was when I tried to help a neighbour pull over a monster Live Oak. I swear that brute had layers of massive roots four feet down. However, with that single exception, Mr Watt's method has worked for me every time, certainly well over fifty trees. Naturally, once you have pulled the tree over, including the now unearthed root, you buy a new chain for your saw, and cut it up. Job done. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Step one, buy a REALLY old barn. Make sure it hasn't been inspected and is preferably far from civilization. You may need to go to Montana for this. Second, acquire some radioactive materials. I can't exactly write how to do this (damn CIA are all over my sh@t) but I think you can figure out how. Step three, put the radioactive materials in the barn for 5-10 years. If all goes well, you should have some GIANT termites at this point. Make sure you leave a letter in the barn that tells the termites where the stump is...I've done this many times, and the only time it didn't work was when the damn termites spoke spanish and not english. |
RE: Giant Mega Termites
| | |
| -- This sounds like a lot of work. I just drill holes in it and put some KABOOM! in there. It never works, but I just keep hoping. |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Original poster wants removal, not decorating or stupid stuff like dyno or diesel Get real ppl |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| Would urine work or just make a smelly tree stump? |
RE: stump removal
| | |
| diesel is not a stupid solution IF you are in an area that allows open burning. you drill a bunch of 1/2" or larger holes in it, fill them with diesel, let the stump soak for a few days refilling the holes as it soaks up. then light it up. you can also pile an entire bag or two of cheap charcoal on it and light it. but again, this is only if you are allowed to open burn and conditions are favorable for it. |
Post a Follow-Up
Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum. If you are a member, please log in. If you aren't yet a member, join now!
Return to the Tips & Techniques Forum
|
|
|