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clarysage1717

making a compost tumbler from a water heater...maybe

clarysage1717
18 years ago

Please excuse me if this isn't the right forum - it's the closest one, I think, to what I need.

I've just replaced a hot water heater. It's 14 years old and does not have a glass liner, according to the guy who installed the new one. It's about two feet across (not diameter) and about five feet tall.

I think I can turn this into a compost tumbler - heaven knows I can't afford to buy one. I have the necessary tools, and the most basic skills, to open it up. From checking out commercial ones, I know I need a hinged access door large enough to get material in and out, drainage holes, an axis on which to rotate it - will EMT pipe work? - and a handle to turn it. I need a frame to support what could be a good amount of weight. Am I missing anything? (The plumber thinks I'm missing a few loose screws in my head, but he's a city guy.)

Any advice, suggestions, or warnings will be graciously accepted.

thanks, katie

Comments (13)

  • hboyd_com
    18 years ago

    It's bound to be heavy already let alone whenever it is full.... you should plan on having bearing to support the pipe.... and, I would not use EMT but that is my own, unprofessional opinion.

  • baymee
    18 years ago

    A good solid "bearing" can be made this way. Get two 1/2" and two 3/4" closet hangers. Screw short nipples into both. Mount the 1/2" assy. onto the end of the drum at the centerpoint and the 3/4" onto the upright posts with 4 screws/bolts. A 1/2" nipple will fit inside a 3/4" nipple. Used all galvanized plumbing fittings and pipe.

    Rather than use an old hot water heater, I would search for a plastic 55 gal drum for about $10, or even free. A bus or truck outlet might use one for bulk winshield washer fluid and give it to you when empty.

  • cadmanjwm
    18 years ago

    The barrel is the easiest way to go. However it is not a simple task to mount a satisfactory rotation axle. It has to be sturdy and durable and while some pipe stubs may seem adequate, your opinion of that will change when the barrel has been filled. I built a few many years ago for my in-laws using barrels. Some had doors sabre sawed and hinged in the middle of the barrel between the ribs and I even did one with the door on the end. The barrel with the end door was one that had the removable lid which was great at cleanout time. Regardless of how or where you put a door, here is the easiest mount system that you could ask for. Find an old junked lawn mower that has the discharge on the side between the wheels. Remove the engine and handle, and set the wheels to the highest adjustment. Set it on the ground with deck down and the wheels up. Lay the barrel onto the wheels. You now have a four point roller support to hold the barrel. If the barrel wants to make contact with the deck between the wheels cut away the interference or move a set of wheels closer to the other pair. If it's set level the barrel won't want to walk on you. It did seem easy enough just to grab the barrel and spin it. The barrel with the removable end was the easiest to clean out. Stand it up, remove the lid clamp and lid, and turn it over and dump it. Good luck with whatever you try to do.

  • john_c
    18 years ago

    I made one using a 55 gal drum, had better luck with steel, plastic was first choice, mainly because I already had one laying around, but lost it's shape and rigidity after I cut the door in it. Steel takes paint better than plastic anyway. I made the bearings using 1.25'' nipples, 3/4'' GRC axle slips right through. Crank handle is made with 2 90's an 18''nipple and a 6'' nipple, frame is just a stand made from 2x4's tall enough to get a wheelbarrow under it. Used thumb bolt latches to hold the door shut, they sometimes work lose while turning so I also have a old nylon tie down around it. Not as fast at making good dirt as I thought it would be, but waaaaaaaaay faster than just leaving it in a pile on the ground

  • newjerseybt
    18 years ago

    I see you also live in PA like I do. There are many places that sell "burn barrels" for about $15. I would try to find one that contained a safe liquid (such as soap) that has both end caps still attached. Folks that deal in burn barrels may have knowledge or access to such a barrel.

  • giventake
    18 years ago

    Johnc Whats a 3/4" GRC axle ? I would opt out for a burn barrel.

  • baymee
    18 years ago

    Cadman's suggestion really sounds great. How did the wheel axles and bearings hold up to the weight?

  • hboyd_com
    18 years ago

    Cadman - that is an excellant suggestion. Not only does it allow for a 4 point support it elimates the need to get the pivot point EXACTLY in the center.

    Thanks....!!!

  • earthworm
    18 years ago

    I like the idea of placing the barrel just high enough for a wheelbarrow; loading manure, compost, garbage thru a one foot or so oval door should be easy enough, I think.

    I have a 55 gallon heavy blue plastic barrow - these are so handy to have..

    John, how big was the door opening to cause loss of rigidity ??

  • john_c
    18 years ago

    The door was about 24-30'' long by about 15-18'' high, looking at it with the barrel on its side. To center mount one axle I took 2x4 cut to fit on the outside ends of the barrel, drilled a hole that the 3/4'' pipe would slip through in the center of the 2x4 and the barrel, then bolted the 2x4 (on flat) to the barrel end with two 3/8 ( I think) bolts on each side of the center hole. Then slide the axle in, get it where you want it, then drill and bolt the axle and 2x4 together. So when the axle spins its fastened to the 2x4 which is fastened to the barrel and the barrel spins, simple enough. The frame is just crude 2x4 frame wide enough for the barrel to fit between the upright legs, and high enough for my wheelbarrow to fit under. My axle bearings, if you can call 'um that are a 1.25'' x 3'' pipe nipple setting on top each side of the frame legs, held in place with two hole conduit straps, the 3/4'' pipe slides right through with room to spare, which is a good thing as this where the friction comes from, I cut holes in the ends top and bottom so the brew can breath, I covered them with some hardware cloth. The only thing I should have done differantly was either have the door size closer to the size of the wheelbarrow or built the frame so the wheelbarrow would have gone in fron one of the ends, so as to prevent spillage when emptying it into a wheelbarrow. Because of this I found the besy way for me is to just let it dump on the ground then use a small shovel or trowel and scoop it into a bucket then take it to where ever I want, and leave whatever is left on the ground under the tumbler for later. The barrel was free I guess I've got about $50 in the pipe, fittings, hinges, 2x4s etc.

  • wfike
    18 years ago

    yall got to much time and energy for me! I just got a 55 gal drum with a top that comes off by releaseing the clamp and drilled some holes in it for air and as for rotating it, I just roll it a few feet along the ground. It is round ya know!

  • Pooh Bear
    18 years ago

    I would think two clothes dryer drums would work best.
    They are full of holes to allow air circulation.
    Weld (or bolt) them together facing each other.
    Cut a door in the side and add hinges to it to load/unload it.

    Build a stand for it. Make the top of it V shaped.
    Get some dolley wheels and mount in the V.
    Set the drum on the wheels where it can rotate.
    Put something on each end to keep the drum centered on the stand.
    Seems easy enough to me.

    Pooh Bear

    Example of a compost bin and stand.
    Use any type of drum you would like.

    {{gwi:294448}}

    Closeup view of the wheels that support the drum.
    The drum can be easily turned on the these wheels.

    {{gwi:294449}}