You are using a file with a guide? Any way you can put up a pic or two? What guide are you using?

1. I have ask for Pics showing the issue. IâÂÂll include asking for a pic of the guide.

2. I have asked if the bar has been inspected good and turned over if possible.

3. I have use a 110v Sears Dermal looking sharpener since 1984 and getting off affected cutting vs color.

4. I doubt this is a first and what are the possible causes (related to guide or Etc vs cutting something?

Thanks!

Usually handfilers have different results from one side or the other, as it is hard to keep the motion the same on both sides. The one that is no longer touching anything is due to a few sharpenings with too much downward force, and it has dove down and made the gullet down into the tiestrap.

I feel you have a good point but IâÂÂve never seen that result vs poor of curved cutting. My poor sharpening is seldom but I have always corrected any problems my test cut reveals (then vs a file away from home. Most of all, I will not drive a distance w/o a spare saw and extra basic parts for the two saws. I like to bring wood home as quick as possible.

This leads to some re-sawing before burning but stacks safer.

Thanks! I will share your info..

The "C" in the model number indicates the saw has the "Quick Chain Adjuster" mechanism. Maybe something is misaligned or out of whack with that. It seems to me that black is a pretty normal color after use and clean would be abnormal. Just a guess - maybe something lodged inside sprocket cover is rubbing one side of chain.

Although I haven't had need for a chainsaw in several years (my son currently has mine), there are several things that come to mind here and I'll mention them just to stir the pot a bit.
1. Is the bar and/or front sprocket worn enough that the chain does not run straight and true?
2. Is the drive sprocket worn or does it wobble on the driving shaft?
3. As I recall, I never experienced "black" teeth on the chain cutters unless they were so dull as to generate heat buildup. Maybe slightly brown in a few cases where I was cutting heavy resinous wood and dirt/dust started to adhere to the cutters but even then, the cutters are essentially self cleaning just by their very form and if the bar is oiling correctly, the actual cutter material stays relatively shiny and clean.
4. You didn't by chance try to cut some old bois-d-arc wood (hard as rocks) or perhaps hit an old nail that was encased in the wood did you?
5. Could there be an obstruction of some type (possibly a piece of trash or chunk of wood) caught inside the drive housing that may be rubbing against the chain at high speed?
As noted above, just throwing out things I would check if the saw were mine.
Steve

Thanks! For all the input and IâÂÂll be surprised if there is a problem, that it has not been covered (when a follow-up comes).

I can not tell you how to sharpen a chain, I am not very good at it. I do a lot of handy man jobs and I always charge for new chains plus 50%. I only run new chains but I am not the one paying for it.

Well I have changed my ways, I bought a carbide tipped chain. I have cut 50 pine tress down and into logs and cut the branches off and about 10 ash and popular trees for firewood. cost of chain 109 dollars for 14 inch chain that includes shipping. joy of using chain saw priceless, the company is in Washington and they will sharpen for 15 dollars

rapco industries vancover washington

Carbide Tipped Bars are my choice vs sprockets (eliminating bearingâÂÂs wear and matching chain). Chain wise IâÂÂm sure it has extended life also. In clean wood (not dozed and dirty) I feel my chains last as long.

Can you sharpen the high dollar carbide blade? I feel it is compatible to what I saw would cut concrete or in dirt (as tree roots).