Hopefully the fuel is fresh- less than a month old. One screw is the power screw (front I think) and the other relates more to the idle circuit. You could try turning the adjusters out an 1/8th of a turn to see if you have an improvement. A quick and dirty trick we used to do on these were to remove both screws, keeping the screws in order as they are different. (Count how many turns they were out by turning them in gently). Keep the spring, screws, washer, and oring together. Next spray some spray carb cleaner - with a straw in each passage. Some will spray out- watch your eyes! Momentarily cover the other passage as you do this. Put fresh fuel in the unit, reinstall the adjusting screws as they came out and let warm before fine tuning under load.

Yes, the fuel is fresh. I already new about the "dirty trick". That is how I ended up needing to know which screw was which. We are suppose to get another snow on Sunday so I will try adjusting the front screw.

Thanks
Randy

Sorry friend, the rear screw is the main. Thought I'd best look! Go ahead and adjust it now. To simulate a load, tip the paddles down on the blacktop. Do you have any hot restart issues along with the poor power?

Thanks for the additional info. I ended up not getting any snow yesterday so I sat in front of the stove all day and watched football which means I didn't mess with it yet.

Here are some additional things I observed (should have mentioned in the first post).

1. Once it dies I have to press the primer bulb a couple of times. Then it will restart easily. If I don't press the primer bulb it doesn't want to restart.

2. When I noticed it starting to bog down and I am quick enough I can pull it back from the snow and press the primer bulb which prevents it from stalling out.

Again thanks for the help.

Randy

Randy : As Tom has suggested the Fuel Starvation is what is most likely causing your stalling issues . If you have any concentrated (bottle) carb cleaner additive add an ounce or two to fresh fuel and allow to sit for approx 20 -30 minutes . then attempt to restart and leave blower idle until cleaner has time to remove gum or varnish from fuel circuits. Slowly increase throttle and reduce choke position until fuel throttle operation is capable. If this does not work as previously mentioned remove the jets and or float bowl and thoughly clean the inlet and hi / lw speed jets with spray carb cleaner . Ensure also to check for a fuel strainer and or filter and ensure that it is clean , this latter suggestion may done 1st if your blower has an inline filter feature .

Looking at the Toro site, you have a Tec carb.

You need to take it apart and clean it out, and maybe replace the parts.

If it ends up not adjusting out of it, then yes- plan a new kit.Ideally get one with the diapragm / needle and seat. It isn't necessary to remove the carb, just all the red plastic. Also the older S series and Snowmasters had reed valves that would break on the block side. Theycan create general power concerns or more likely hot restart issues. It is located just where you can't get at it near the top right- just under the shroud. Two slotted screws. The thing with using jet spray to clean the passages is that though each passage must be cleaned, seperately- one shot has to go through with both screws removed.

I turned the back screw out 1/2 a turn and now it isn't bogging down at all and it was blowing 6" of snow which is about the maximum this thing can do.

So thanks for the help.

Randy

Hi all. Old thread, but I'm hopeful I can get some advice here. My S-200 was stored improperly by a friend, so of course the carb got gunked up. I have it back now, am in the process of rescuing it. First, I emptied the tank and gas line, filled the gas line with carb cleaner and let it sit. Then I put some fresh gas in the tank, and got it running with the help of a couple shots of go-or-blow. At first, it would conk out after a few seconds. I found I was able to keep it running by pushing the primer. Now I have it to the point where it will keep running if I leave the choke closed. I'm sure the carb could use a new diaphragm and a good cleaning. I'm not afraid to redo the carb, but I can't get the lower housing off to get to the carb without damaging the choke linkage. Advice? Thanks!!

It has been a hundred years since I've done anything with these. The choke unhooks as you twist the lower cover off if my memory is correct. Your S200 has the pull out choke or the rotary one? The pull out ones I think had a clamp that fastened into the lower cover. 3? lower screws and then the uppers on each side of the handle. You should get the full kit with today's wonderful fuel. Remember the order that the diaphragm and gasket are are in. There used to be instructions on the back of the kit though...

I have an S200 snowblower and I can't do anything with it. It's not getting any gas and the primer doesn't bring any in. I've cleaned everything, but it still doesn't get any gas. Everything seems clear so I'm wondering about the diaphragm in the carb. I can't see how it works, the primer opens a valve, but nothing comes through. The little needle valve for the primer is an odd size of nut so I can't remove it to clean a little deeper. Any advice would be appreciated.

You should replace both the diaphragm and the inlet valve kit if you can't get flow through the valve. Fuel line and possibly primer line as well. I forget the size of the body- 11/32?

It's 8mm, thanks, trying to buy the kit, $10 in the States, $30 here in Canadia.

Just bought a S-200 and was wondering what year it was made. Model #38120 serial 9042876. Anybody know?

1979