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An electric chainsaw can be as aggressive.

Posted by loger (My Page) on
Wed, Jan 2, 13 at 21:17

I was surprised a 12" electric chainsaw could be as aggressive as a gas saw with the right chain. Basically no effort, as the chips were flying during very aggressive cutting w/o working the saw's position. I will say this was 10" dia green Fruitless Mulberry. I feel it will be aggressive enough on dry oak as my 10" Remington Pole Saw, that's just shorter. My experiment paid off from taking what appeared to be a heavier cutting chain from a 14-16" gas saw and fitting it to a 12 bar and sprocket on the electric saw that matched the sprockets?? It could be that the like new chain was sharper. I feel the like new chain had less drag form the chain's rivets with the longer teeth outside the rivets (that eliminated working the saw).

My trend has always been to cut, store and burn the bulk wood 16 - 18" long. Recently I decided to re-cut much of the wood in half when I am ready to burn it since the fire is un-attended more now. Since 1990 LOL! Cut short is not good for safe stacking/storing but short wood falls in the bed of coal vs away as it burns. The beds of coals are on a tubular grate that sends heat out when the doors are closed and the fire is un-attended. The electric aggressive chainsaw is handier for re-cutting, "Just In Time About every Two Weeks" than a gas saw. Not to mention the needed exercise on fair 35 - 40 degree days.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: An electric chainsaw can be as aggressive.

I was nearly laugh out of the neighborhood when I took my electric chain saw to deal with the 31 trees that were downed in my lot in Fran. It cut everything from the small pines to the 20 inch Long Leaf. (I hated to loose that tree.) My pile at the curb grew just as fast as the neighbors with the gas chain saws.

I now have a much larger lot, at times I think I would like to get a gas chain saw as the back of the lot is 200 feet from the house, but then remember that the saw may sit for a year and not be used. I know the electric will always start if the cord is long enough.


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RE: An electric chainsaw can be as aggressive.

I need that gas away and electricity or gas close at home. The less hassle with an aggressive cut is what I will welcome at home. My usual load is cut just to get home vs risking machine matters away. Depending on the dia of wood vs cutting to burning stick length (usually 16" - 6' depending on dia) is the goal. Two 20 mi loads each way was not unusual seasonal need (70s-80s). I can remember three loads once with two left to haul due to the traffic from the opposite side of town. Burning wood has been fun and exercise since the mid 70s but not a must but with central heat. I'll reduce my burning in the next few years.


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RE: An electric chainsaw can be as aggressive.

IMO small elect saws (120V plug in type) are more powerful and have more torque that small gas saws. It's just you got the cord to plug in. I usually us my gen. with 25 foot ext. cord to trim blackjack oaks. If you keep the chain tight and sharp the REM. limb saw works great for me. I never taking if off the pole and used it like regular chain saw due to I have several vintage saws that see little action.


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RE: An electric chainsaw can be as aggressive.

My habit is not to use light equipment (10" Remington Pole Saw and 12" McCullough Chainsaw) over 50-100' with a light extension cords. I have a 1hp Air Compressor and 1 hp Log Splitter that I will not use over 50' on 12-3 cords (99.9 % w/o a cord).

There has to be a Pole Saw longer lighter and naturally smaller (4"bar) than the Remington 8 - 10", What??. The saw is a killer at the 9' extension if you are not almost under the limbs. I have the 16' Sears Manual Pruner Saw that's a killer cutting over 1-2" limps. My Rope Saw is even a killer.

My Pruning Issue:
I have decided to contact the City and get a clarification on who is responsible for trimming limbs away from wires coming between houses from reader easement to front easement street lights. In 07 they came out with bucket trucks but no needed tools and told me they were not tree trimmers. I repeated my email and pics and a 2nd crew came with the same statement and attitude but had tools and got the job done. I promised to try and keep the small limbs away but that has gotten too high and hard. I sent my efforts this year that clears the wires 4' away to the front easement but I feel my efforts between the houses are theirs. With No Reply Yet! The winter weather and dead trees will take poles and wires down as one did 4-5 houses away in 07 that caused a fire and power outage about 12 hrs.


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RE: An electric chainsaw can be as aggressive.

I have a Sears electric, I inherited from my Dad. It is a lot easier to prune trees with than my Farmboss. I always considered it to be a toy, but it impressed me with its performance.


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RE: An electric chainsaw can be as aggressive.

If these links below other than the attachment will not open loud and clear, please tell me how to post more than one attachment to a post. My experience when opening the links, they were not large enough. Hopefully, when I send this will chance but I doubt it.

I'm trying to show I feel these two different chains will fit this cog (on my aggressive electric chainsaw project). Do you see a problem with them fitting? The main issue is both have the same number of links with the new one on the bar vs below and longer. The new need at least one link removed for future tensioning. I guess I am missing something about the different brand's designs.

Comparing chains url link = http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af312/JOW_06/bth_12inElectricMcCulloghChainsaw9_zps0dfd8d02.jpg?t=1357322448

Original chain on cog = http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af312/JOW_06/bth_12inElectricMcCulloghChainsaw10_zpsef22277b.jpg?t=1357321161

New chain on orig cog = http://i1019.photobucket.com/albums/af312/JOW_06/bth_12inElectricMcCulloghChainsaw-2_zps8befa0aa.jpg?t=1357321161


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RE: An electric chainsaw can be as aggressive.

Oops! If you preview w/o sending then it drops the attachment that you need to attach again before sending. The links are not showing large as an attachment on this end but not too bad. The bad is the new chain on the cog is not showing the full half cog fit, my attachment would.

That was as much as I was able to get done inside w/o the wife knowing. LOL! The cleaning and removing a link will be in the garage with warmer weather.


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RE: An electric chainsaw can be as aggressive.

Follow-up:

It came to me that I would have to shorten the chain by 2 links. With it broken and the tensioner bottomed, I saw the 44 links would work and braded the link.

Back flushing and using thin wire got the bar oiling draft flow "only" system working. It is not applying the amount of oil I like to see or slinging off. The drop of oil in the tank and signs on the bar's port "only" is saying it's working but light. The idea of boosting oil with a pump top on the tank d/n show good signs cold. When it worms and I use the saw, I'll adjust as needed if it's not better. Including slight porting above the approx 1/6" port if needed which could be some additional cleaning.

Any opinions from electric chainsaw users as to the oil should sling off as with a gas saw? I could be the RPM or design but I feel I see more signs of oiling with the Electric Remington Pole Saw.

PS. The 1st attachment shows the self sharpening stone and chain. Both were removed and the more aggressive conventional chain was added.


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RE: An electric chainsaw can be as aggressive.

The electric saw did an excellent job today. Basically cutting 4-6" dia but up to some 8-10" Live Oak and as a 2nd cut to shorten stored wood to approximately 12" (4 wheel Barrels during this wave of good weather). The adjusted chain minus 2 links did not stretch any noticeably as initially. There w/n noticeably bar oil on the bar but the half empty tank said oil was used. I'll try porting/cleaning the port more before I focus on a pump top. Meanwhile, I need to add extra oil from an oil pump can.

The saw is exciting. I can use a Jig 24" X 12" X 3/4" ply bottom with a 2 X 4 X 24" stop screwed 4" high to the base as a stop, cutting in the center of the 24" stop to allow using two hands on the saw. The wood is cut and pushed back in the wheel barrel.

I got a call that there is plenty pallet wood out separated as planks (cut 8-12" in barrels and 4X4s X4'long). That is hard to believe, "Except It's Work" and during this cold weather. I have all the wood I need and can Justify off the curb "For Now" vs wood going to waste. Wood has not held good over a years in this Tx Sun, Heat, Rain vs maybe in a shed or under a top etc..


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