If it has one of those polymer primer buttons, I bet it will start right up for you.

I'm working on it it in the house. on an old rug. Not only did I get the pulley off the Tec, but it fits the P's shaft. There looks to be a difference between the heights of the shafts of the deck, Nothing shims or washers can't handle. I've got ~15" of powder snow on the drive way ,so I've got a good test for it when I get it going.

I am going to need a shorter belt. I also need to rig a chute control, The engine is plenty strong ,and starts easily. I had to drill out the welded in studs and replace them with Tec head bolts, cut to fit.. I got it together enough to know that it is a worth while project.

The Chonda started on a closed throttle, no primer., but it does have a fuel shutoff. It also has what looks to be a low oil cut-off. There is a wire going to a a sensor screwed into the block. It came with a manual, so maybe that will tell me

Give us a full report. I had a friend ask me about his blown engine on his old beast. I told him that the HF engine may be the way to go too. Would it be easy to do an air box if it iced up or just remove part of the air filter?

It does have low oil shutdown. I put one of those on a Merry Tiller, and it has proven to be a great engine....always starts easily, and GOBS of power....

They do have low oil sensor. My first returned engine was cutting out, but my replacement has been fine so far.

I have yet to rig up a throttle cable but the hand throttle is easy to use. I can probably use the belt, but a it needs a better spring on the tensioner . The worst job is going to be rigging a chute control.I am going to try a ptting a U- joiny in the shaft where it has to go around the engine

It started just as easily after a night out side as it did the first time with with a room temperature engine and oil. I was just bringing the piston up and it popped.. An easy pull started it This is what I was hoping for..
The engine runs smoothly and is very quiet compared to the Tec.

I haven't rigged an airbox yet, I will if it ices up ,But so far so good.
.

Thanks for the info. Going to order that same engine for an old tiller in a month or so.

Ev

I had to rig a tensioner for the take up pulley.. With that working , I blew enough snow to warm things so I could drain the augur drive. I got a few tablespoons of emulsified goop out of it. It has a brass worm gear, so I have to be careful. I am gonna try to find a tube of the grease, ( marine?) This afternoon. Also a cheap 3/8 drive u-joint for the chute drive.

A pic of the end result would be great!

Sorry . I don't do pictures. I have rigged a chute crank. There is still tweaking to be done. However, I cleared 6 inches of wet snow from my driveway with it. It throws snow better than ever.

Just a follow up. I added another foot to the chute crank. This necessitated another bracket . I used a little scrap pine. It is ugly but it is smooth and just as easy to use as the original. The engine is quiet, smooth and about 20 pounds lighter. The engine doesnt seem to mind being covered in snow and slush. It throws snow great. I'm glad I did it.

If have problem with low oil cut off just add 2 ounces more to oil level, may take another 2 ounces for total of 4 ounces this keep engine with lubrication.
When disconnect low oil shut off you want know when destroying engine.
If fill engine to full mark crank run when oil cold are still thick it stay up in engine and oil run down be slower and if engine cuts off it take 5 minutes that cool oil to go back into small hole in switch and make connection so fire back up, you can't be fast enough to level engine as dies and keep running the switch is that slow to reset.
Just tilling people have the above problem, because engine tilt back so for when tines go into ground.

Thanks for the input gator; many people have talked about the cutoff switch, especially on the go-cart racing sites. Those sites are a good place to hear more about these engines and where to get parts etc. They are basicly a Honda clone, but I've forgotten which one.

I don't recall anyone explaining the reason for the slow recovery before. Thank you.

It sounds like you should be checking the oil level in this engine every time you use it. I check the level in our small engines, lawnmower and snowblower, once a month, but I am considering going to a "check every time" policy, just to help me remember.

This is my first brand new engine in quite a while. I have been checking the oil level. So the low oil switch acts as a tilt. That explains the slight hassle I had after tilting the machine to replace a shear pin. I gave the engine a slight over fill , maybe 2 ounces, I checked it after a hard run to see if the oil was foamy.. Some ran out, it was amber with no shiny bits. I'm fine with that, I didn't observe any sort of break in. I smell the paint burning on the exhaust. The manual said to change the oil every 20 hrs. I'll change the oil after the next 2 storms or when I put it away.. On newly acquired OPE, I check oil until I figure out its habits.

This is my first brand new engine in quite a while. I have been checking the oil level. So the low oil switch acts as a tilt. That explains the slight hassle I had after tilting the machine to replace a shear pin. I gave the engine a slight over fill , maybe 2 ounces, I checked it after a hard run to see if the oil was foamy.. Some ran out, it was amber with no shiny bits. I'm fine with that, I didn't observe any sort of break in. I smell the paint burning on the exhaust. The manual said to change the oil every 20 hrs. I'll change the oil after the next 2 storms or when I put it away.. On newly acquired OPE, I check oil until I figure out its habits.

Hey there...I know this thread is ancient but figured it was worth a shot. I'm wondering how you reconfigured your chute crank? I just repowered my Ariens 524 with a Predator. The chute support used to bolt into the top of the engine on the original Tecemseh., That isn't possible on the new Predator engine. Thanks Wayne

You can have a support bracket fabricated to an existing bolting point by any backyard welding enthusiast . Otherwise go to a metal supply shop and have them make you a bracket or if you have a drill and grinder make one your self .