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' CALLING All Engineers .'

Posted by nitrojc (jcnorris3@hotmail.com) on
Mon, Feb 22, 10 at 10:00

HELLO PEOPLE, I have this Ward's 1980 2-Stage Auger 5hp. Briggs Snow Blower. I been having carb problems for several years now. Yes, I have soaked it, and rebuilt, and everything else.
I am wanting to replace the Briggs with a "Greyhound 6.5hp engine." Here's where the problem comes in ... this Pesky Briggs has an Aux. shaft that drives the wheels, leaving the crank to drive the auger. Does anyone make a replacement kit to accommodate the drive wheels from the crankshaft itself? I know this is a Longshot ........
Again, Does Anybody make a Modification Kit of some sort, to make this work off the crankshaft itself?
THANKS-TO-ALL, Who will help me get thru this Nightmare!
Sincerely, Jim.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

I don't think you are going to find what you seek! I have worked on a bunch of small engines, and haven't seen anything like that, especially some foreign engine, with a transmission inside the engine, or being geared inside the engine crank-case. (Have never seen that, only the auxiliary shaft on the engine, driven by a gear on the crankshaft, inside!) And, if you think you have a nightmare now, just wait until you get into trying to do what you seek to do!
What is the Greyhound engine? I've never heard of it.
And, as for your carburetor, what have you done with it? Have you cleaned out all of the passages in it, soaked it in carb cleaner overnight? Used compressed air to blow out the holes and passages? Used a stiff, fine wire, to poke in the little holes and passageways?
And, when all else fails--seek local professional help! Don't waste time trying to cobble up some nightmare propulsion system. It'd be much cheaper in the long run, to buy a new machine! 30 years is enough for that ancient machine! I have junked newer ones than that one!
by: Rusty Jones, the Mower Man!


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

RUSTY, I am going to take you up on the idea to seek Professional Help. When can you send out my new carb, or at least a newly re-built carb ? I'll be awaiting it, just send it the cheapest way, Oh and THANKS, Nitrojc.
Here are the engine #'s 130292 .. 1061 02 .. 80090806.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Mon, Feb 22, 10 at 16:04

Make sure all these small holes are open. And remove the round plug above the air screw and see if those 3 holes are open.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

To: Nitrojc: I thought you wanted advice on the engine shafts, and how to cobble up a different way of making a single shaft engine do the job of self-propelling the snow blower/ thrower! Especially since the original engineers couldn't figger out how to make a single shaft engine do the work of a double shaft engine! Sheesh!
Any way, i sent my message in good faith, but evidently you want to make a mockery of my well intended try to help you. Also, i do have a rebuilt carburetor here, which would work well on your machine! If you want it, please send $250, cash, and i'll ship it to you for free!
Yours: Rustyj ;<)


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

not mockery anybody hear and not knowing what he's actually got, go my guess is probably not worth much! to the orginal poster--What problems leads you think its carb. problems?

If that's and older flat head design I wouldn't be too quick to blame in on the carb.? First I would do a compression check (it may be worn out and no carb. will fix that), then I would check spark, and proceed to check the points and coil for corrosion and the spark plug wire for weather/dry rot cracks if compression is good.

I would also do a system clean up. I would remove the head and decarbonize the combustion chamber and inspect the cylinder walls and valves. remove the gas tank, clean it, replace the fuel lines make sure the inlet tube screen is clean if it's they type that mounts on top of the gas tank? Now with good compression, good blue spark, and a clean fuel system you can now blame the carb.

those jets pics looks like newer carb. designs on OHV engines where the carb not on top of the tank to me, I don't remember the old flat head design carb. having that style of jetting??? Especially if it's the type that mounts on top of the gas tank?????????? But, I been wrong before!


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

baymee, Thanks for the tip, and the trouble you went to with the pics, this is more helpful than Rusty could ever imagine. Thanks Nitrojc.

Rusty, The name says it all. No I didn't just get off the boat. I always thought you were a Jerk, now you have proven it to me. The carb for $250 cash what a bargain, but I think I'd rather get the total package .... A new engine for the same. Good Riddens !


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Mon, Feb 22, 10 at 22:16

The middle picture is a typical adjustable jet on a flat head. I believe all three are for flat heads.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Hey nitro- was this the carb that you machined the nozzle surface on /repaired the threads on- or am I thinking of another poster? Was it up and running for while anyways? Is this thrower one with a regular transmission in it or still a disc drive? So on the old engine, the camshaft runs the traction belt- hmmm.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

YES, TOMPLUM, I AM HE, ONE OF THE SAME. However, the carb I modified was for an 8hp Briggs Generator. The mod. worked fine.
This 5 hp carb is a flow-jet, it looks like a cigar. About 42 years ago, I put one of these engines on my motor bike, and rode it to drivers training. This was the 4hp version, but Identical in every way, except No Aux. shaft. I still have a black and white picture of the bike. If I knew how to post it I would. The bike did 45mph according to the speedometer, for a 24" bike frame that's Fast. I still had the pedals for the coster brake. A twist grip throttle, and rear view mirror. The engine was mounted over the rear wheel, and drove a pulley attached to the wheel rim. The Briggs had a centrifical belt clutch, that drove the rear wheel assembly. I had a lot of fun putting over 3,200 miles on it, before I retired it.
So, The moral of the story is ..... Back in the day this was the best engine around; At least the carbs were dependable. Also, had one of these engines on a Mini-bike that ran, and ran ..... I REALLY ENJOYED MYSELF IN THOSE DAYS ! Thanks-for-asking, Jim.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Baymee, I removed the needle, and brass insert. On this insert there are absolutely No holes to Clean out. It looks similiar to the pics, but shorter. It appears the main jet is behind, and threaded into the carb body casting. It requires a flat blade screwdriver which I have, but angles outward from the tip. I would have to gind off the widest part on both sides in order for it to fit. I went through this drill Last year, using a wire to clear the holes. As I remember, this seemed to work for awhile, and then I had to choke the engine half-way for it to stay running. I know its plugged, because there is little to no adjustment. The engine will still run with the needle screwed in, and doesn't change much from being screwed out to 1 1/2 to 2 1/2 turns.
Just the other day, I did replace the fuel pump diaphram with a new one, and blew out all orifices with compressed air. I did find 2 of 3 hand-loose machine screws that bolt the carb to the tank, Tightened. With a half tank of gas, the engine choked, it started after many pulls. However, (as it should) when warm it would only run with the choke fully open. I figured that was it, then Yesterday I went out to finish the remaining snow to be removed, and "WHALLAAA .. THE SAME SH.T.. All over again." The engine was lacking in power, and the choke had to be Almost Closed in order for the engine to stay running.
NONE OF THIS NIGHTMARE MAKES ANY SENSE. Forty years ago, when I knew little about these same engines, "I NEVER RAN INTO ANYTHING LIKE THIS." I know the simple solution is to buy another carb, but I should be able to Fix this one. THANKS-TO-ALL, Jim.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Wed, Feb 24, 10 at 20:36

I was thinking Tecumseh engine and it's a Briggs. And the carb mounts on the tank.

I've never had a problem with these carbs after changing the diaphragm. Some have a preload. The fuel pipe screens could be blocked.

NAPA makes a great soaking carb cleaner in a gallon can, but don't leave it dipped for more than 15 minutes. Cost me $20 and lasts for years.

I don't know what to tell you. These carbs are pretty simple. A good soaking, water wash-off, and compressed air have always worked.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

The fuel pick-up tubes are clear, and the long one is new from last year. I indicated the brass insert has no holes, well its aluminum. Tomorrow, I'm going to grind down the sides of a flat blade screwdriver, and remove the brass jet as I did last yr. It has 2 holes for sure to clean-up. Possibly, I will open the holes a "few thousandths," and see if that doesn't work better. At this point I have Nothing to Lose by doing this. At worst, I may have to replace the main jet with new. Later, Jim.


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RE: ' CALLING any shadetree mechanic'

Did you check compression? did you remove the head and even look into the combustion chamber and view the valves and cylinder walls and how much carbon buildup you have or is that over you head?. Or did you even check the ignition for a weak spark when it looses power? loosing power and pulling the choke out usually means a vacuum leak, bad points, weak coil, low compression, gummed up combustion chamber, leaking head gasket, leaking around the spark plug, bad spark plug, or even the carb cracked sucking air? Drilling hole in the carb. jet will not fix the problem especially if it's already spitting black smoke when it looses power, if it does help it will only be temp. fix IMO. How about answering some basic questions before you want to "engineer" it. I guess I'll join the "jerk" list (in your mind) also.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

HEY FELLA, There's no reason to be Hasty.
The compression before oiling the rings is 58 PSI, and after is 80 PSI. I believe it's All-of-the Above that may be wrong.
Before answering this Question, Please note the engine #s ... This 1980 5hp briggs carb is the Pulsa-jet style.
Last yr. I cleaned out the main brass jet with fine wires, and the engine ran fine for awhile. Shortly afterwards, back to the same old crap ... Running rich to lean; Its very Sporatic. I think the problem lies behind the jet were there may be a restriction of some sort. Yes, I did blow out the area with carb spray, and compressed air. Like I said, It worked OK for awhile. Internally can these passageways become so plugged that even solvent, and compressed air can't clear them ? Vaguely, I remember someone said to drill out the small steel balls inside, and clean throughly, then seal off holes with small machine screws. HAVE YOU HEARD OF THIS ?
To me this is Bizarre, and don't know if there is any Truth to it. Well, Please give me your take on this.
Thank-You, Nitrojc.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by mla2ofus z7b Tom Green Co.,Tx (My Page) on
    Fri, Feb 26, 10 at 14:38

I'm not sure but your compression sounds like it's right down to the minimum. Could be the problem.
Mike


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

WELL, The Briggs Tech. Dept said between 70psi, and 90psi should be good. Jim.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Did you check that the fuel pickup tube isnt split? (The piece mounted on the bottom of the carb that goes into the tank.) Depending where the leak is, the unit will pickup fuel normally until the fuel level drops below point of the split. The tank may have plenty of fuel in it, but if the level is below a break, it wont draw fuel.

"WELL, The Briggs Tech. Dept said between 70psi, and 90psi should be good. Jim."
So Briggs Tech support is now giving out unpublished compression specs to the general public?
I guess that explains why I have too wait 20 minutes too get warranty authorizations.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Yes, In fact, I put on a new tube w/screen last yr.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

I suspose it could happen, but IMO rare unless you let it set for years? tiller and snowblowers are used on occasions and set alot, I would imagine snowblowers would be worse cause some years it may not snow and then you got the moisture problem. Other than cleaning I had never had any problems out of them old style carb.

IMO I also agree the compression very weak. I would check it after it warms up see what you got. Didn't want to get grumpy, but needed some questions answered.

Which I still don't know if you removed the head or not and check the head gasket and carbon build up especially around the valves which may not let them seal all the way which could be the low compression problem IMO of course. Really don't take that long to decarbonize it and reseal the head, course you want the piston up when wiring brushing it by hand or with wheel brush. I used those old thick crush head gaskets over and over never had any leaks.

You really need to know what the cylinder wall looks like and how bad the carbon build up is???, especially it it has ridge wear and the piston slaps back and forth in the hole. If so your wasting you money and time IMO. I've got a 73 Briggs 3 1/2 hp on a tiller, mine has points, only thing I ever replaced is the spark plug twice and the points once. Sure I cleaned out the gas tank/carb/inlet screen 15 or so times and removed the head and decarbonized the combustion chamber probably 7 or 8 times. Mine has 105 pounds of compression


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Remember, Both Compression numbers were done with a Cold engine. One without oil, and one with a few shots of oil. Of course, the one with oil did seal the rings, and resulted in a highier reading. On a hot engine the oil will be thinner, and probally will result in a lower than 80 psi reading. Meaning the best may be the 80 cold, with oil.
About 3 yrs. ago, I did have the head off to free up a stuck intake valve, and at that time there was NO Carbon build-up at all. YES, It was Clean ... and the Cylinder walls were Good with NO Ridges. What-Say-You ?
Thank-You, Nitrojc.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

look around at the flea markets for another carb......good luck.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

" WAIT A MINUTE, " You went from a possibly blown engine (low compression) to a carb replacement in 1 posting. Would you Please explain your Reasoning ?
Also, because Briggs has no compression specs. available, maybe this tech I spoke to really doesn't know, and gave me "His best Guess!" What-Say-You ? Nitrojc.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Fri, Feb 26, 10 at 20:41

I agree that you're below spec on the compression. Normally, I see them at 90#

But low compression doesn't mean a blown engine. It could be something simple, like a valve with too little or no gap at the stem. Or worn rings, but still usable.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Baymee, Have you ever done any "Valve lapping," and if so, could or would this solve the valve problems ? This engine has no valve lash adj. Thanks, Jim.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

I have never had to lap valves in a B+S flat head. But I read that if the valves were lapped, then the stems have to be ground down to account for the seat recession.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

"Blown engine" not a good term. I did not use that term. "BLown" to me means hole in piston, broken connecting rod or something protuded through the block. A worn out engine is not blown it is worn beyond limits that makes it unusable till restoration of clearances brings back it's preformance to a level of useablility.

Your the one that basically illimated everything except the carb. I only tried to steer you to other possibilities. Do a leak down test if you think you have a valve leakage problem. Lapping IMO is the cleaning up of the seat and valve, machining is the removing of metal and therefore shorting the length making it out of spec's. I guess you could lap it beyond spec's. There may not be no valve lash but there is clearance between the valve stem and the cam lob when the valve is closed otherwise it would leak.


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RE: ' CALLING shadetree mechanic.'

One thing doing a leak down test. If may leak down but it's not easy determining if it's valves or worn compression rings. Normally you will listen in the exhaust for leaking exhaust valve, at the intake/carb. opening for a intake valve and oil filler neck or breather tube (air leaking down into the crankcase) for leaking compression rings. It's kind of hard you have to determine which leak is the worse????? A leak down test is air pressure induced through the spark plug hole with the valves closed. Should hold some amount of air pressure for a few mins. A leak can be heard by place a hose at the points and sticking your ear in the other end of the hose and listen for air leakage. I had to change the subject to be able to double post, not getting hasty again so don't take it the wrong way just passing on information or opinions.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

To: RC MOSER:
Thanks, RC, for the vote of confidence! The original post was for info on how to use a single shaft engine drive a self-propelled snow blower/thrower, that came stock as delivered with a two shaft engine. Thats what i originally told him, but he decided to get into name calling, and smart-talk. Thats what ya get from some of the newbies! And, thats why a lot of posters have gone over to other sites, where most, if not all, of the members are civil with each other! If we had the luxury of a TV feed, where folks could aim their camera at their pet project, and we could view it at our TV, that would help immensely. But, to get smarmy with somebody who is only trying to be helpful, in a situation where the parameters keep changing, is only the mark of a smart-mouth! Maybe he'll grow up. I doubt it, but maybe!
Thanks! Rusty Jones


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Sat, Feb 27, 10 at 18:00

Yes, I have done lots of valve grinding and lapping. I don't think the seats on these can be ground though. Just remove the valve and grind a little off the end of the stem to obtain the clearances. We're only talking about 004/006, depending upon the valve.


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WHO'S Asking You, Rusty ?

RUSTY, I don't think that I have ever asked you for your 2 cents worth. As a matter of fact, last year "Your Smart Mouth was Running," in response to a different engine, different carb, and Different Forum, BUT HAD NO SOLUTION, Let Alone an Idea.
Furthermore, Your Snide Remarks, just Perpetuate the already past posts, this blatantly displays your maturity level. AGAIN, GOOD REDDENS


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by mla2ofus z7b Tom Green Co.,Tx (My Page) on
    Sat, Feb 27, 10 at 20:16

To get back to the OP's question, you'll have to rig up a jackshaft w/ a 2:1 ratio since, I believe, yours is powered off the camshaft and it turns the opposite direction of the crank. I think you truly do need the services of an engineer to accomplish this. If your engine is trash, I think you'll need to find another or overhaul it. I hope your compression problem is a simple fix because I believe it is the cause of all your troubles. Do the compression test hot. I had one B&S that the exhaust valve had worn into the seat enough that it had 0 lash cold and when the valve warmed up it wouldn't seat resulting in too much compression loss.
JMHO,
Mike


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

HI Mike, I will do the Hot compression test, as a few of the other people have also recommended. They mentioned 90 PSI, and the other was 105 PSI. I don't know if that was the "Leak-down test," or the standard compression test.
Thanks, for your Input, Nitrojc.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

By the smart mouth: You must be college educated, by the things you write! And, by the way you change things in mid-stream. Hard to tell what engine you are talking about! What happened to the snow-blower engine that you wanted to change from a dual shaft to a single shaft? Did you realise that it was you who changed the whole message?
I'll let yer snide remarks slide. But i might suggest that you step back and re-read your letters. It wasn't until you got smart with me, who was trying to be helpful, that i got my back up.
So, in the future--i do certainly hope somebody can find out just what you are really looking for, besides an argument with anybody who tries to help you, in good faith!
Good bye to you.
Rusty J.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

"TO ALL OF YOU WHO ASK ME TO DO THE HOT COMPRESSION TEST." I did the "Hot engine compression test," and the absolute maximum is 73 PSI. Upon the first pull, I got 60 PSI. and 14 pulls later my Highest final reading of 73 PSI. Yes, this was done with the choke open. Now, when comparing the cold to hot compression readings, this is a 15 PSI Increase. The cold reading without oil assist was 58 PSI.
SO, WHAT DO YOU PEOPLE SAY OF THESE RESULTS ??
Thank-You, Nitrojc.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

I say OvErHaUL IT! why are you SHOUTING!?! hurting the only ear I got left! Hee, HEE! IMO the problem with low compression engines are when you put a load on them they flander, stumble, and fall flat on there face. Now you got to pull the load off it and wait for it to lean out and whine back up till the next load choked it out again.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Mon, Mar 1, 10 at 6:45

The choke was open. Was the throttle also fully open?


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

WELL Baymee, Yah got me .. No the throttle was not fully open. However, the cold test was done the same way, with choke open. I remember the throttle was at a very fast idle, before shuting it down to run the test. My best guess is that it was at 1/4 open. Yes, this would restrict the air-flow into the cylinder, but I just kept a pulling until the gauge reading didn't change anymore. Again, the Maximum reading is 73 PSI. HOT.
You figure from here. Thanks, Jim.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Mon, Mar 1, 10 at 11:16

Just for fun, do the test with the throttle wide open.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Baymee, What I can tell you is there's a 5 PSI difference doing the Hot compression test with the choke on. In other words, with it fully choked I only got 68 PSI. compared to the 73 PSI with it wide open. So, you figure from here ... Remembering the throttle was still cracked open 1/4 of the way. Later, Jim.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

RC Moser, and Baymee.
Which compression test did you use when running your hot, and cold compression tests? Was it the "Leak-down, or Standard Cranking test?"
As I recall, RC you got 105 PSI. and Maybee got 90 PSI.
Thanks Guys, Jim.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Mon, Mar 1, 10 at 19:49

I keep it simple. If it has about 80-90# cold, it rules out compression as a symptom. I'd do more if needed. I have a tester that screws into the plug hole.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Done mine cold with no oil in cylinders. MY 20 year old Briggs 14HP twin Vanguard has 160 psi in each cylinder. My new Kolher has 100 Psi, my 7 year old 5.5 tec on my uplift has 108 psi. my newer briggs 17hp ELS (POS)has 95 Psi. All done cold on a hot day in july. I also like the screw in tester with the big o-ring won't leak or bleed off any so you get a real good repeatable reading.

IMO when that thing heats up, more leakage is probably going on, and load is put on it, it don't have the power to keep up. rebuild kits run about 50 bucks which includes all gaskets, piston and two new valves. You just have to mic your bore to see if it's std. or worn enough to hone to .010 overbore. providing you can get that model kit???? Goggle?? again, good luck.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Tue, Mar 2, 10 at 6:18

A bit of good news for Tecumseh engine owners is that genuine shortblocks are again becoming available. There is some breath of life back in Tecumseh.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Baymee: You will have to check where those new Tec engines are being made! If it is China, i wouldn't buy one, until somebody posts some results as to how they perform, or how long they run until "BLOOIEE!"
Also, what happened to the twin shaft to single shaft problem? Guess he has forgotten that, too intent on bashing me! by: Rustyj


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

RUSTY, For $250 smackers, I will send you the "Blueprints," that show you how to make the duel to single shaft conversion.... I thought you Prefered a Double shafting....... Later, Nitrojc.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Wed, Mar 3, 10 at 16:19

Nope, Rusty, The engines are made right here in the good ole US of A.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Naww, Nitro--you are the one who needs the double
shafting! ;o)


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

What the Heck , leave for two weeks and all hell breaks out ! lol . Well folks been interesting reading , have to agree with the poor compression as a prime issue . However there must be something else causing the lower than specified compression , perhaps a combination of issues , since it apparently is an older unit . Since there is some viable compression you would think worn or stuck rings and perhaps less than good valve seats or a sticking valve . Anyhow hope all ends well , seems that Nitro is more than capable on the carburation side of the table since he has all but Reversed Engineered the original unit lol . Take care all ! Rusty how's the Snow Situation ? Melting Real Quick up North Hear !


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temperature sensitive

WELL FOLKS, Just when I thought compression was the problem, it now seems that warmer temps restore the engines power. Makes absolutely no sense to me ... what-so-ever. Today the snow here in lower Mich, has been melting, with temps in the lower 40's. I Choked the engine, and it started on the second pull, with No-primer assist. To my surprise, when warm the engine ran Best with choke off, and I plowed thru 12" of wet snow without bogging down, or stalling ! HOW THE HELL DO YOU EXPLAIN THIS ? Below 40 deg. on down to the teens, some portion of the choke is a Must for the engine to run at all, let alone with power. NONE OF THIS MAKES ANY SENSE. I feel I am on "Candid Camera." Where's Allen Funt ? Somehow, the carb can't richen the fuel enough, and therefore runs lean below 40 degs.
I took the carb off to check the fuel pick-up tubes, and screens .... NO Blockage there. However, Noticed the Mini-fuel bowl inside the main tank was only 1/2 full. Shouldn't that be full, or doesn't that matter. I suppose that could cause a lean condition below 40 deg. However, today it powered thru the snow Flawleesly.
The main jet, and 2 orificies behind the main jet are wide open, No restriction ... clear from any debris.
ONE GUARANTEED FACT Here is that Temperature Plays a Prominent Role !! AS THE NIGHTMARE CONTINUES ... Possibly one of you out there knows the answer to this Mystery. Thanks-To-all, Nitrojc.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Anyone know what good Reddens means?It was posted by nitrojc-Sounds like he has been smelling nitro.I think he should take his so called engine problem to a real small engine mechanic.But I suppose then,he would not be able to bad mouth anyone .


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Gorp, This feud with Rusty goes back to page 48 on the Lawn and Garden Tractor Forum. "Harrasement is Earned Not Acquired." I suggest you read up on 8hp. briggs generator, by Nitrojc, and then give me your comment.
Rusty, by now should know, I don't want his advise, and I've told him so. So let's move forward people, and Solve this Mystery. Thank-You, Nitrojc.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

HOW THE HELL DO YOU EXPLAIN THIS? Operator Error maybe!?!, Hee, Hee! Probably the coil breaking down in the cold. Throw the thing in you freezer, freeze it for a couple of days then pull it out and see if the spark is nice and blue? not reddish/yellow or no spark at all?


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

And, here's old Rusty Jones--sitting here--snickering!
ahh, yes, the college educated hard-head is operating true to form! Bye-bye-, Nitro. Your bad-mouthing is rolling off my back, like water from a hard rain!
I'll be surprised if anybody wants to answer any more of your inquiries, but i don't care what you think--you are only printed words on a page, which can easily be erased--never to be seen again! Bye: RJ


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

MR.JONES, WHY DON'T YOU "REDEEM YOURSELF and GET LOST."
Good - Reddens ! ... JC.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Let's see how this works.
You raised a question about a problem that really didnt exist......Flamed members of this forum (and others) for nothing.....caused problems on at least 3 different forums.....had your post locked on another forum.....and still have the grapes too tell rusty too get lost.
You are one strange little man, JC. ???


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

HEY THERE FELLA, AS GOD IS MY WITNESS, THIS ACTUALLY HAPPENED. "NO HEAD GAMES .. THAT'S RUSTY'S STYLE." TAKE OFF THE BLINDERS, LOOK AT THE TOTAL PICTURE, AND THINK THIS THROUGH.
RATHER THAN "SUCK-UP TO RANDY," TAKE THE TIME TO READ PAGE #48, AND SEE FOR YOURSELF. BEFORE JUDGING ME "WALK A MILE IN MY SHOES!"
IF THIS IS OVER YOUR HEAD, THEN DON'T REPLY, and sit on the side lines.
"I HAVE MORE IMPORTANT THINGS TO DO WITH MY TIME, THAN TO SCREW WITH PEOPLE'S MINDS TO KILL TIME."


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Hell never seen were warm ambient temperatures affect Compression in this manner . Sorry Nitro , I think your going to need a Aeronautical Engineer ! Hey Ray what say you Bro ! lol .

P.S. At least it up and runnning Nitro and you got the Snow Blowing probably behind you . Where abouts in Michigan you from Dude ?


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

AT-THIS-POINT, I don't know if it is compression. What about the "fuel cup reservoir" its only half-full? Should it be full to the top, or doesn't that matter?
I am just outside the Detroit Metro-area. Thanks, Jim.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Well Jim from Mo-Town I would think the Float Bowl (Fuel Cup Reservoir) should be at least 1/2 to 3/4 full , but 1/2 should sufficient . I think perhaps RC has the Best analogy , that perhaps the Coil is not putting out the proper amount of Spark in Colder Temps . I have only experienced Coil Breaking down under load when Hot , but RC has been playing around with these small engines long enough to Know . All the all the Best to the Lower Pennisula from Northern Ontario Dude !


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Tee-hee! I could tell S.M. how full that little tank should be, -------------but, i won't! by: RJ


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Your Maturity level is Infantile, and you should take a Nappy-poo, before it erodes further. I think your a Prime candidate to run for the ... US. Congress. LOL.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

rustyj has given MORE than enough to federal service. matter of fact WE own Him and the "Government owns him MORE!" "Thank YOU MR. Rusty Jones" for your sevice to you country and Trying to help out on these forums. I really enjoy your posts, I'm pushing 60 and I still learn something every time you post. Thanks again.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

WELL RUSTY, Maybe I have been a little hasty. If all is True in your Autobiography, Then .. HATS-OFF-TO-RUSTY !
In the Future, possibly we can come to some Middle -ground. .... Nitrojc.


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Well, thanks to all of my friends on this forum! And, i shant stop posting my info to anyone who really needs the help!
I realise that there are some folks who cannot take criticism, me not being one of them, but, when the talk gets down and dirty--then i "get my back up"! I never attended any college. In fact, my formal education was 12 grades in regular school. I was drafted into Army service in March of 1943, which cut short my high school last year, by 3 months!
After my Army service, which included almost a year in Army Hospitals, i got my discharge, went home, and went to work almost immediately, at the local Ford Dealership.
I stayed in the automotive field, having later learned auto-body repair and painting, until i had to quit, mainly because i became allergic to the new auto paints, etc.
So, needing something to do to keep from sitting down in my easy chair, and cashing out too soon, I took up lawn mower repairs, etc. Mainly to keep my sanity, and to keep active, as if 50 years with the local VFD was any indication, I soon got into a new thing to keep me active.
The fact that i left my left foot in a garbage can in France, and England, didn't keep me down. I decided if i didn't help me--nobody else would. My Uncle Sam helps some, since i am no longer gainfully employed, except for my little advice column, here, And the few bucks i get during the summers!
Not rich, nor hungry, nor looking for a free ride!
Thanks to all who have stood up for me, in that diatribe!
By: Rusty Jones!


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

Great to see some Common Ground Nitro and Rusty . I have not been on this Forum very long , but have been a Member of various other Forums for Yrs. We all have our own Opinions and Life's Experiences. Being Tolerant to Other's Perspectives is Important , but all to easily ignored. I myself have on occasion said things that were less than objective or tolerant , no real reason than being caught up in the moment and perhaps over reacting to another's point of view. Since were on the Topic and having just returned from the Olympics , what a better time show some Good Will ! Although I have previously apologized and Stated also that we can all agree to disagree ! Sometimes even I have trouble moving on . I just went through a rather sad situation with an Death in the Family , no excuse , just that perhaps the Hospital finally got the Better of Me and my Patience . So in this endeavor let me also State to Mr Raystom that I regret all of the Offensive Posts that I have generated towards you , they were Wrong not matter what the reason . Life is to Short to get caught up in such trivial issues. There is a Wealth of Wisdom within this Site which is easy to Utilize as it is to Discredit . So in closing Thank You to all the Members who have been more than tolerant of my previous behavior , I'm Truly Sorry that I did not Think more Carefully before I Posted !

P.S. Rusty you never got back to me on Your Snow Conditions ! Nitro great Job on the Blower Carburetor Engineering Retro Fit Great Pictures also Dude !


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RE: ' CALLING All Engineers .'

To: Ewalk: Snow melting, had 2.8 foot of it! Can see roads again. Melting fast.Great-Grandkids are visiting, have to go see them. but thanks for your reply!
I'm eagerly awaiting to see what the "engineer" has to say, now that i have made my past known! ;0)
Rustyj.
Keep on writing!


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