My 1st thought was the 12â Urethane Band Saw tireâÂÂs weld broke with the blade still on and running. The weld appeared good and I feel the blade cut the tire after it came off. Is this common or sounds rational? 3-4 Years of occasional use on the 1st set of urethane tires, trying to beat dry rot rubber tires.

just throwing this out there-
What if you put the logs in the deep freeze first?

Probably not worth the effort.....

Thanks Bil! IâÂÂll put the remaining half outside since we have a mild freeze predicted and try a hand saw (if it appears to be brittle). Otherwise, IâÂÂll hope to break it into usable sections to get this experiment on the negative list this winter. Small starters are sold but not at the same value if cutting had worked. The small sections are working enhancing paper and kindling starting.

The real key is to keep some coals going when we have consistent days of freezing weather. BUT, This Is NORTH, TEXAS! Safe Experimenting/Exercising while we enjoy the heat is the real goal.

Thanks Bil! IâÂÂll put the remaining half outside since we have a mild freeze predicted and try a hand saw (if it appears to be brittle). Otherwise, IâÂÂll hope to break it into usable sections to get this experiment on the negative list this winter. Small starters are sold but not at the same value if cutting had worked. The small sections are working enhancing paper and kindling starting.

The real key is to keep some coals going when we have consistent days of freezing weather. BUT, This Is NORTH, TEXAS! Safe Experimenting/Exercising while we enjoy the heat is the real goal.

So what's wrong w/ some newsprint and ol' fashioned kindling w/ maybe a little used motor oil on it?
Mike

I've been using Diamond Brand Strike-A-Fire fire starters for years and they work well for me. They come 48 to a box and I break them in half so I get 96 starts per box. Available at Walmart for about 9.00 a box. Just need to use good dry kindling.

Here is a link that might be useful: Diamond Strike-A-Fire Firestarter, 48ct

Thanks For The Ideas!

1. Diamond Brand Strike-A-Fire sounds good @ 96 starts.
2. I have pallet planks, cut 8-10â long, split to approx 1â sticks per pan full holding all ver.
3. IâÂÂll feel WordâÂÂs Auto Text, Etc changed my spelling âÂÂreciprocating to precipitating sawâ that I missed.
4. Are you using rubber or urethane tires on your band saws? Customer Care wants me to use US Mail to send the cut tire. Sounds as if they might re-weld or replace.
5. If you have put a urethane tire on (using hot water), you know I need to take the day off.

Stay Safe With The Endless Repairs And Experimenting!

What about using a hammer and chisel?

I haven't tried it with the Dura Flame logs so might be a problem. But I do it this way for the Dura Flame Fire Starting bricks. Those are about 1" x 3" x 6". I normally cut them into 1/4 pieces that way.

Here is a link that might be useful: Dura Flame Fire Starter

The hammer and chisel is exactly what I have in mind. I feel IâÂÂll get some useable chunks. If needed, IâÂÂll drill some üâ holes 1â apart (as an influencing grid) in the brick size section left. Then IâÂÂll contain the chunks in a sealed plastic coffee can to see if the chemical last vs drying up.

My task today was to find backup Urethane Bandsaw Tires, âÂÂlocally and reasonablyâÂÂ. I thought I would get lucky at Granger, Northern Tools or an industrial Supply. No luck Yet! The manufacture has not ruled out replacing the tire free if I mail them the cut tire. I will if needed. Presently, I am asking if I can send pics of the shipping container, weld that d/n break and cut that occurred when the tire came off w/o the blade coming off (to save the postage).

This was a fair ending and lesson. The tires are sold in pairs and I was offered
the two for half price. Meaning I get the replacement free and purchase a spare.
I hate the word free, feeling “nothing is free”!

The actual starters are worth the money for the small spending and less mess. The halves are plenty starts and they start easier as a sure start with small kindling and
News Paper. The best start is left over coals. Many want the coals gone for safe
cleaning.

I have added a heavy metal mesh that will hold the coals and allow the ash to fall 2-3”lower for clean or flip the mesh up. The mesh is lying on
stainless pipe "Dog Irons", welded to a Steel Back-Log feeding heat to the
opposite side of the “Once Double Side Fireplace.

My added stainless “heat exchangers (above and below) have reduced log capacity but allows good heat closed or open. This has been a project since about 1978. It is time to enjoy except for any needed cleaning. The large box almost to the
ceiling is a monster to clean when needed (like now). Tubes (7 stainless, adds to the cleaning challenge.

Cleaning the pipe when needed is no challenge. I have only seen light soot in 6’ of 14” inside, 16” outside insulated pipe. IMO due to good hot fires with 1 year seasoned wood. My goal has been 24/7 Heat when the cold is here.

"The last pic is a different need"!

Those logs are full of wax, so perhaps a parting blade with a smoth knife edge would be best. Or possibly with an occasional hook, like a cement board blade.

Please give you opinion on that Nasty Fire Box at the top before the pipe connects. It is nasty looking but all Soot in my opinion. Usually I sweep it off with a fan on top pulling Etc up.Getting in there is not fun due to my over-head tubes and “Young Body”. Sweeping with a broom has always cleaned the pipe and box. I did collect Etc from cleaning once years ago and tried to burn or ignite with no luck (thinking it
was creosote). I’ll try to post a pic and would appreciate on what the collected material was.

Thinking about it, most of the mess came off stainless I added as an extension due to my neighbor complaining of smoke coming down vs drafting up. The extension did not change the draft. Some winter days I noticed smoke would drift down. The mess
was the build-up on the single stainless extension. Soot in a different form maybe??? I have not seen this mess since the extension was removed or smoke at ground level. I feel the single stainless sheet was colder above the insulated pipe and attracted the soot or etc.

I was told I might have th crack a window to get a good draw with the insulated filled pipe. I added ducks in the hearth that were inside the Double faced fireplace with the doors closed. The steel back on one side cancel one 4” duck. My focus is to keep ash out of the duct. Plus I can see in it and vacuum if needed.

Too much Stuff and excuse the order!

I have tried using a band saw and it works pretty good use a real thin blade . It does not seem to gum up either just wipe blade with a rag when to saw is not running. Hockeypuc 45

I was given fire starters as mentioned at Wal-Mart and breaking the 48 in half to get the 96 starts. I am safer and satisfied without missing a start. I will use a piece of newspaper at times to light the starter but no oil or liquid. I feel what I was given
might be older/slower to ignite. Plus I still use light started wood if it is a total cold start.

Very seldom will I need a started if I know it will be low or freezing the next morning. I will add a 6”-8” Half seasoned log (heavy with cracks) that will burn down to good coals 10: PM -7: AM. Clean the ash from under my grate and good to go another day.
This has taken years of Engineering LOL!

Looks like you flue is much to short , double or triple you current length 36 " to 48" is the norm , also cannot believe your roof does not leak around vent , do not see any rubber boot or flashing on the base of the flue .

I Totally Agree! I feel the 14” ID 16” OD has something to do with the draft (along with the cap’s design. I have gone 2’ higher experimenting and it made no difference.
Except a big mess (attached) with the last 2’ un-insulated… There is a roof Jack that adapts to the pipe at the collar. All has worked since the mid 70s.

With my lack of Energy to drive and work free standing wood, I am almost done. The 20 miles drive is like 200 in today’s traffic and Etc.. I did plumb for a gas starter, “That Might Become A Gas Log Fire”. That might be cheaper than the Bottom Line Of Burning Wood (intended as exercise initially)…

My logs did hold as coals last night and wood that should have burned. Intake air is a symptom since the left over glows as ready to burn when I open the glass doors…

We use the firestarters, like Diamond Brand Strike-A-Fire. Generic is even cheaper. Even if you don't break them in half, $0.20/fire is not worth the hassle of trying to cut the Dura Flame fireplace logs. You said you broke one wheel on your bandsaw and possible ruined a couple of blades. I don't know what Bandsaw you have, but you could have bought several years worth of the Strike a Fires, for the money you spent for the new wheel and blades

I just cut a tire on the Band Saw’s wheel tire which was new and a lesson. Most of all, I had no idea the Log was so gummy and dangerous to cut. I will never try to cut others vs using “Fire Starters” or My Past, Small Kindling and Paper. Safety is a concern!

I actually made a Jig and used a Chainsaw due to the donated "Logs" I
wanted to move. That was too much waste from the chain and lack of safety. When
I noticed the starters in the same donations and remembered to use half. I was “Sold” on them and donated the logs to be burned as fires as they were designed… Safety Is Worth More Than “False Savings”!!!