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| I have recently aquired an older, sn 407218, Troy Bilt Horse tiller and am in the process of replacing the wheel and tine shaft seals. At least that was where I started.
As is almost always the case more things wanting attention turn up once you start taking things apart. Once I got the tine shaft out it looked like someone had tried to dig the seals out and really chewed the shaft up. It is gouged so badly that there was no way for oil seals to hold up. I am in the process of putting in the replacement tine shaft and have about .126" of end-to-end clearence with a .010" thick cover gasket in place. And since the bearings are loose in the cups there is lateral slop as well. The parts house lists "tine shaft shims", and they are included in the tine shaft gear & bearing kit. However I haven't been able to find shims mentioned in the manual for this tiller. It would be a great help if someone could educate me about the proper clearences for the tine shaft. Many thanks,
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Follow-Up Postings:
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| I can't answer your question, but I would guess that the wear on the shaft seal surface is from dirt and vegetation that gets stuck in that area and the owner didn't clean it often. |
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| The shaft seal surface was chewed on by assorted chisels and screw drivers from the looks of it. There are also some ball peen hammer divots scattered about. I have a new shaft and in the process of putting things back together. Want to do this right. RT |
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| Just in case anyone else has a similar question I'll update what I learned today from Tim at "Custompartsinc.com". The original bronze gear was thicker then the current replacement gear. The replacement gear uses two .055" thick spacers to make up for the difference. Can't say enough good things about Custom parts as a Troy Bilt part supplier. RT |
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| I just posted in my thread about my horse. I just replaced all the seals in the tine box. I found a 1 1/2" PVC works to drive the tine shaft seals and 1 1/4" PVC works for the front seal. Mike |
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