Maybe the fuel lines and primer lines got switched around by your mechanc

@ladylake

I thought that at first, but I've triple checked that and have the lines in the correct place.

1. Ck the utube at this sits related to your system.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uCC1qO75zDk

2. I f you find resistance there is a small fuel screen inside the carb that could be restricted ( Attached).

3. One screw will let you into the area with the carb off. Personally, I cln the screen with Compressed Carb Cleaner vs replacing which has been a challenge for me. While you are there you might as well flush all openings to know they are open.

4. Mark and lightly seat your carb's settings to know references. Digital pics are helpful if you are not real use to the setup.

Good Luck!

great video! I think the previous 'mechanic' flip flopped the lines coming from the primer bulb. going to flip them now.

That mechanic needs to balance this charge with you. Is he and his experience new to you? I know no business likes to refund money. I usually ask for the differences in needed goods with them accepting the fact that their fix d/n work to dictate their charges.

1.W/O looking back, did he prove the saw was running and tested well before you left his property?

2,That is a key point with me before I leave the property or area with cars/Etc to show fix/improvements.

3. If I make a repair, I show and prove what I did vs seeing something strange later.

@loger

My brother picked up and the saw (the first time...carb rebuild, new fuel lines, etc) and it was running. He took it home and cut down one tree and then it stopped working again so he took it back. I'm guessing the fuel filter came off and/or the fuel lines were backwards but it still worked?

2nd time he took it back the mechanic couldn't figure out why it wouldn't start so I picked it up.

I flipped the lines and now the primer works as expected but it still won't start. I think I'm going to have to take the carburetor apart again and clean it .... again.

1. You should be able to pull the spark plug and add a half teaspoon of fuel/oil mix as a prime to get it to start vs run (to prove it is a fuel matter.

2. From a light seat what are the carb mixture screws set at (1/12 turn Etc)?

3. Have you checked the filter in the tank or replaced. Have you checked the tank for sawdust Etc?

4. Were lines deteriorated enough to get bits in the carb or trash that quick?

1. I've put carb cleaner in engine and in one pull it will start and run for about 1.5 seconds.

2. I haven't touched the carb mixture screws at all. I'll check

3. I replaced the gas filter Monday and tank is clean

4. No, but having the fuel filter off might have done it?

Going out to clean the carb now.

Thanks for all of your help/suggestions

H & L were only 1/4 turn from a light seat. ugh.

checking the interwebs now for correct setting.

1. I would say 1-11/4 turn out, start and adjust from their. Looking for power and no bogging/hesitating when fully accelerated.

2. Did you remove the screws and flush with compressed carb cleaner or wire to verify no blockage?

3. Are you seeing any varnish/gum in the carb and do you treat your fuel with Stabil/Etc or a fuel stabilizer?

4. Good find and I hope all works along with the good learning/experimenting.

turns out this saw only allows a maximum of 1/2 turn max.

from the manual:
"Due to existing environmental and emissions legislation your chain saw is equipped with movement limiters on the carburetor adjuster screws. These limit the adjustment possibilities to a maximum of a 1/2 turn."

But I think the problem is a lot closer to being fixed. I took them completely off and cleaned them and sprayed carb cleaner in all the little holes of the carburetor.

Now it starts!!!!

One remaining problem now is that it only stays running if the choke is out/engaged. As soon as I push the choke in it kills it.

But I'm so stoked that it's starting now!!! Thanks for all of your advice and wisdom.

Now to figure out why it won't stay running.

after further research, this problem seems that there is too much air is getting in and not enough fuel. I think I'm just going to get a carb repair kit and take it apart again and replace the fuel lines. I'm not sure the previous mechanic did ANYTHING (but replace the carb)!!!!!

Why do you feel a carb kit is needed if he replaced the carb? Was it replaced with a new carb? Are you seeing bad parts as hard rubber or cracked fuel diaphragm? The Mechanic will probably give you a kit and lines to balance what has not happened.

There is not much needed in carbs vs a lots in the 1-2 kits that serviced many carbs for me (attached).

Just trying to figure out what it could be. The gaskets and diaphram seem new, so I guess they don't need to be replaced.

Just don't know why it's only running on choke (when this saw is not supposed to be started on choke)

Sounds like you are sucking air somewhere if the choke is needed to run.

1. Is the carb on good flat and tight? A simple test (âÂÂmight beâÂÂ) to spray WD-40 using the ext stem and low pressure at the carb to case connection all around while running (to see if the RPM changes if a leak is sniffed out).

2. âÂÂALLâ fuel line connections s/b extremely tight to ensure they are air tight (vs easily slipping on or off).

3. I think we are getting close and if so, you have to try and evaluate where all of this started to possibly prevent a repeat. Such as, is the saw showing to have year to year quality for others? Was the fuel treated for storage to protect moisture from the saw? Is the fuel carefully added w/o âÂÂany" fine sawdust close to the tankâÂÂs opening?

4. Post a good close pic of the carb and fuel line connections. I'll pull on the lines to ck the fits. LOL. I possibly will see if they look tight.

Thank the North TX snow for the time!