The unit's serial number: 715545 made in march 1984. 6 horsepower. But (HH60 105115H s/n 4033D) may have engine that was changed look at HH number again on engine that horsepower should be 7hp HH70 = 7hp HH60 = 6hp so on. In 1982 all horses where changed to PTO model that means take off Tiller shaft with 2 bolts at flange behind transmission. You join the troybilttillerclub at yahoo dot com make that into link to search. You also should have 4 speed which uses one belt gain 3rd 4th speed by moving belt over to next pulley grooves. Own mtd site for model use 1 and can use 1 for serial number. One advice if may give is never think your Horse tiller every been serviced most never have. I have 1973 2 speed and 1977 just 4 speed they had original air filter in both tillers one so bad pull engine oil up into air filter a dirty air filter cause high crankcase pressure. Good luck with tiller and join group file there tell hold story.

Hello, I verified the engine stampings are: HH60 105115H s/n 4033D I agree, I will assume the unit has not been serviced and get the manual and get the tiller all serviced prior to garden work.

I don't know what is up with the engine...hope to learn more.

Thank you for your reply!

Bob

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:298246}}

Looks like a "Horse" to me! I had a 6 h.p. Horse with a Tecumseh engine. It did everything it was designed to do.
If you have never worked with a Troy bilt tiller, be careful that the thing doesn't tip too far forward while tilling as it might, and has, broken off the mounting holes and lugs on the engine casting. Would be a good idea to try to find the correct "bumper" that bolts on and keeps the breakage to a minimum, if at all. You could even make one.
Just stay with the Tec engine, if it runs ok.
Note: If you change the transmission oil, the oil must have sulphur in it, to keep the gears in good shape. To fill the tranny, you must remove the handle bar mounting casting. Also, down under the handle bars, is a rectangular steel casting, held in the vertical position by one bolt, and being tapered towards the upper end. the roller on the gear shifter arm moves up and down on the tapered block, and adjusting the block will suffice to make it stay in gear.
From the pics, it looks to be in good condition, just needs a good clean-up.
Warning: If you have to remove a wheel, be very careful if it is stuck on. Hammering or jacking on it will break some retainers inside the tranny, meaning lots of time to fix it.
I got one just like yours, as a trade for two lawn mowers. It had a broken rod. I fixed it and sold it, and the buyer is still using it, after 9 years!
HTH: Rusty Jones

Thanks Rusty! I appreciate the tips and pointers. I will keep an eye open for a "bumper".

Bob

if the distance between the tines at the center is more than 4 inches the tiller will not be very effective, new tines give u a distance of 3 inches and cost about 100 dollars, they last about one season or so depending on your soil and amount of use. I have had two horse tillers and sold them both, 8 hp b&s. I hande spade and fork everything now in permanite beds. much better than the tiller and a lot cheaper. I can easily dig 100 sq ft bed in one hour.

Mark,
You are a better man than I...the reason I bought a tiller was to reduce the need for hand tools.

If foe some reason the 3 - 4" between the tines makes for an extra pass (or two)...I'll smile rather than dig/till by hand.

Have a great weekend!

Bob

If the tine gap is too large, you'll have to make extra passes. If you plan to keep this, spend a few extra bucks for the hardened tines and be careful that they are genuine. I bought mine on ebay from the manufacturer which is in, I believe, Tennessee. They should last many years.

You will have plenty of power with your engine. Be sure to keep it full and change the oil frequently.

I have a manual which I can scan if you can't find one.

baymee,
I attached a link showing the tines....they seem to be in decent condition. If/when (yes sir, I'm keeping this old work Horse) I buy new/replacement tines, I will buy genuine tines. I just bought a manual. Thank you very much!

Bob

Here is a link that might be useful: {{gwi:298248}}

My 1987 Horse is on its 2nd set of tines - The "new" ones are 12 years old, and still in usable condition; these tines came from the original manufacturer (Garden Way). I have middling-good soil, no rocks. Don't know about tines provided by the new Troy Bilt manufacturer.

I use my Horse to till before planting in spring, and after fall crops have finished producing, and use the Honda FG-100 for cultivating, so the Horse doesn't get a lot of use. Actually, if I didn't already own it, I'd just rent a big tiller twice a year.

Good luck with the old Tecumseh. I've had nothing but carburetor issues with them. I pulled the Tecumseh (HH80 I think it was) off my Roto-Hoe tiller and repowered it with a 10 HP Briggs Intek and never looked back.

Your tines look like new when really worn front and back edge make point at tip. Engine if when need one Harbor Freight has price at 129.00 today for greyhound 6.5 hp engine. In 2008 before any sales they where 120.00 I bought one then spare still in box. Overhead valves give engine a lot more torque than old flat head engine. Tecumseh spot manufacturing in December 2008 but there a lot parts out there for old engines. Old style bumpers no longer made so ask for troybilt horse bumper and in stall what comes it fit. Price cheaper on new style around 50.00 new style fits Briggs Stratton engine so some what larger than old style bumper.

Thanks for all the great thoughts. I was able to locate an old Horse bumper. I feel fortunate to get my hands on one...I am looking forward to learning more and see a learning curve in my future!
Bob

I have a 7 HP kohler TROY-BILT Horse. I love it. The tine/pto clutch doesn't fully engage...are there any adjustments I can do?....thanks

Assuming that you are talking about the belt slipping, then yes it can be adjusted by moving the little yellow or white odd looking block with a notch like thing. It is just in front of the spring on the left of the second picture up from here. That pic shows the machine already engaged. The little wheel on the forward/reverse lever is resting below that block. It seems to be red in that pic. Yours needs to be moved down a little to tighten the belt up. Or, the belt may need replacement. If you were talking about some actual transmission issue, then I don't know, but I don't recall reading of any adjustments.

Thanks for the response, however as a first time user I don't see the pictures you are referencing. This pic shows the tine/PTO clutch lever...It won't fully engage without a significant amount of force. When it is in the tines barely spin...I can't find anything in the manuals that addresses the issue..

If dog clutches are worn out may want check here for new ones item number 34 in parts list. take 2 bolts out remove tine attachment and check dog clutches.

http://www.troybiltpartsonline.com/pages/OemParts?aribrand=TRB#%2fTroy-Bilt%2f12090_HORSE-OPC_(7%268HP)ROTOTILLER(S%2f%2fN_120901100101-UP)%2fPOWER_UNIT_TRANSMISSION_ASSEMBLIES%2f001010-B%2f0010100016

xam, the original post in this thread had a pic of a tiller. The third post also had a pic of tiller from different angle. That second pic is what I refered to. Your pic also shows the block near the top right and the little wheel is resting below the block as in the second pic. Since I have never seen your lever system, GR probably knows something else. However you should still check the block.

Thank you...the link fails, but I'll research dog clutches. I'll keep you posted...and thanks much!

I have one just like it that has been handed down from me from my dad. I use it all the time. I am looking for attachments that may be available for it..possibly a 4 foot scicle or cultivators...anyone ever seen anything like that? Charlie

Charles: assuming you are talking about the pics from the OP, I have a similar model and the manual and some advertising stuff. I don't believe there are any special devices that run on the tine shaft. There were several different sets of tines for different soil, but you don't see the unusual tines much either. There is a little trencher and a flat drag piece that can attach to the back to help shape a mounded row. The flat thing is called the Hiller Furrier or something like that. One can occasionally find the front bumper rack. While it does act as a guard, it is really designed to anchor a blade that can be used to push soil or snow around. Neither the bumper or the blade are likely to be cheap.

What kind of lub and where to lub on a 1970's (model 2644772) 7 hp tuc engine troy bilt horse? I just got it and want to be sure it stays in good shape.

I just checked the manual. I guess I should get my own act together because I haven't done most of the suggested lubes. I have certainly greased the belt Block adjuster and the two heavy vertical rods that the whole engine assembly slides up and down on for belt tension. I don't see any specific grease indicated. You may need to remove the rods if they are really messed up. Make sure you mark/determine the proper height. But then one is supposed to oil every moving bar connection and shaft. If you suspect that transmission oil has leaked out, you will need to fill it with either 90 or 140wt transmission oil via the hole under the T handle.

does anyone know where I can get a rim or set of rims or a 89 pto horse model tiller? any leads much appreiciated. Thanks ray

I have an older(circa 1970) Horse model.There's a bolt that screws into the bottom of the carburetor, presumably to drain the carburetor bowl. The problem is that Gasoline leaks out there after I shut the engine down. Has anyone had this experience and how was it fixed ? Thanks, John

It would have been wiser to start a new thread, but that bolt gives access to the bottom of the carb, the main jet, float and needle and general cleaning. The leak is probably caused by an old gasket or the bowl is dented where the gasket rests. You should get a carb kit anyway and it will have that gasket as well as a new needle and needle seat. The old seat is likely bad anyway and you could be leaking via overflow that just appears to be coming thru the bottom rather than dripping down from above.

I have a Big Magnum Kohler K181... #825981 (1986?) it keeps popping out of gear when till I till deep. I have changed roller, changed belt and made numerous adjustment without luck... any ideas what else to check? also: the PTO is locked in tiller position and I am unable to move it... I read that their was a replacement update parts for this... anyone know where to get the parts and are they available?

Picked

Just picked up this horse from a flea market trying to figure out manufacture date can you all help me out any? I posted some pictures any questions please feel free to ask any help would be greatly appreciated thanks

You will have to look for the 6 digit serial number , after 1 990 it should be on the tranny casing below the handle bars 2" x 3" plate if older than then 11 digit stamped into the casing . The MTD site can give you further info . Alternately you could call 1-800-828-5500 for further detail information .