I keep a can handy too. Great stuff for cleaning varnish off the carb and freeing sticky linkages. As you say, it will not hurt the engine in moderation.

You think I can pour all the gas out from the tank, pour the carb cleaner into the tank( just enough to cover the filter), remove the plug, close the choke, prime the bulb and keep pulling the rope to draw the carb cleaner through the carburator to clean it. Would that work?
Then pour all the stuff out including the primming bulb and fill back with gas/mix to start the engine.

maybe, but a spray can of carb cleaner is under pressure. the pressure. Basically it blast the tiny hard gum out the tiny drilled passages that the solvent disolves. In a severe case of gummed up carb. it may not be enough to clear the passages without the pressure of the spray. Sometimes you have to run .020 piece of wire or smaller through the passages to get the crud broken up. IMO 90% of the time the spray can will clear it.

Chemtool B12 sells 12 oz cans. I dose my OPE gas with it on occasion.

Hey Rcmoser
How do you spray inside the carb? Normal spraying into the opening of the carb just go directly into the engine. The only way I see is to take the gas intake line with the gas filter, remove the gas filter and spray directly into the tube. But that still don't put the pressure into the jets. What other ways I can spray into the critical part of the passage without disassemble the carb?

Well if it don't have a vent you have to disassemble it. Use to spray the stuff down the bowl vent on my Quadra Jet and autolite 4100's sometimes it helped.

small gas engines that don't have a fuel bowl and float system has a diaphram cover that on alows static air pressure on the outside of the diaphram or drain hole when the diaphram fails. They do have a tiny hole at the base of the flapper valve when you look down the carb venturi, you could try it. But, as you said the jets are behind the flapper stem and there no way to get it inside other than down the fuel inlet hose that I have found.

My main point was use the stuff for priming on equipment thats not been started for awhile for people that have no mechincal knowledge about carbs.

I just had some good luck getting my Mom's Craftsman 2 stroke blower going again. It would run barely with the choke on, but die out once you turned it off.

I put a strong dose of Techron in some fresh gas, and kept the thing running by turning the choke on and off....after a few minutes of this nursing it -- all of the sudden it came back to life and runs good again..

I would agree that carb cleaner in an aerosol can is one of man's greatest inventions. I try to always keep a can or two on hand....

Thanks for the info Rcmoser.

Going to bump this may help some when snowblower season hits and it may not>>>>>>>>>>>

Thanks this helped me with refurbing a mower!

Phases , an ounce of concentrated fuel cleaner added to your fuel tank will accomplish the same once the engine is started . Seafoam is about the best currently Ensure to treat your Efuel with a conditioner or you will have further issues in the future . I use Startron available @ Wal-Mart .

I need to get back to using my ½” drill and socket starting Gas Equipment that has sat a while with treated fuel but needs that “Arm That’s Worn Out” from the 1970s My Quantum Briggs Mower gave me the idea and it has worked smooth since. It easily disengages when it starts. Initially I thought I needed a spring between
the socket and drill in case of a “Kickback”. The short spring/sewer cable twisted into and no problems with a direct socket or short Extension being pushed off if needed.

After the first start it’s no problem using the arm. Lazy me! There could be a mount for an “electric starter motor” and I have a source of motors. The bottom line is “Easy Start” or “”Electric Start” or Electric Equipment or Grandson!!! Take Care, Have fund And Be Safe!!!

Drills will not turn over all small engines loger . Unless they have sufficient compression the drill is not capable to turn the engine over quickly enough . Also as advised there are some safety issues involved Bud ! Ok for experts but not something to recommend to novices !

Very good points. Thanks,Ewalk!

1. My mower feels as if it has compression release allowing the easy spins. It is
   the initial seasonal start-up my arm hates and fine with the pull afterwards.
2. 1. “A Big Safety Issues” if you have ever had a “Kickback”, it could take you out.
      I doubt the none experienced would make the needed Jig. If an electric motor can be adapted to your mower or Etc. that is the safer way to go.
3. 1. The neatest I have seen is the mower that re-coils for the next start when you kill it. Again it could be mean and not start with that charge at the start of the season.
      Hopefully it will have Compression Release to assist with one or two pulls.
4. 1. If I was not so lazy I would hire or trade with my Yardman, LOL! He walks
      from 10 houses away with his problems. I call him from 10 houses away when I need Help. Or! Alert him on my 2 mi walk I’ll need help on my return if he has time. He’s a good yardman with yards and helps in a crew…

Yeah as we age the way we do things sometimes has to change also .

thanks for your advice. I have a new spark plug and the engine wont start.

I need some help with my riding mower. Its a john deere L110 and it wont start.

Nice to hear you say it’s OK to spray some carb cleaner into the spark plug hole, since that was the only thing that worked. Just spraying into carb and choking didn’t work on my old riding mower that I’m now convinced has a broken pressure release on the cam…crazy expensive or hard to fix properl with standard tools.

HU-347208000

I hope this Link helps. I am losing my feel X sharing. BUT! Still Trying To Kick!!

Loger

how to a john Deere riding mower compression release is working%3f - Bing video