My experience over the years of cutting is that I have hit something that dulled the teeth on one side. Take a close look at the chain�s teeth and see if you see more wear or damage to the teeth on one side of the chain. A quick fix is sharpening the chain with my Sears 1984 Dermal looking sharpener (priceless). I have the 110V AC vs 12V DC and recently saw a cardless. The sharpener and Laser Tip Bars vs sprockets have saved many days of cutting dirty wood (dozed or etc). Plus, I never leave home with one saw, bar or chain (from some lessons learned) hustling free firewood. Good Luck! loger

1. Do you have zero tension on your chain or about 1/8" of slack if you lift it off the bar?
2. Are you using a quality bar oil vs motor oil?
3. I have seen some dry petrified oak showing a few sparks but not any standing oak.
4. The term "Rubbish saw" is new to me and I c/n find a link. Are you saying it is designed just to trim?

With your efforts, you will get the job done! loger

I would guess you're not getting enough bar lubrication. You might try thinning your b&c oil with kerosene.

Does the 55 have bar oiler adjustment. 350's and up have this function where you can adjust the flow of oil to the bar? My experience with cutting crooked usually after the bar and chain get heated up dulling the teeth and cleats not sharped at the right angle. This takes some time to learn IMO. Once the angle is lost it's hard to get back. On long thin cheaper bars the bar can bend or warp causing this also. I had cheap 18" sears Poulan that done that right out of the box when I sunk it in big log. Bar was too long and flimsy for that saw especially when you hit knot.

Rubbish is english term for Trash! meaning he thinks his saw is trash or piece of S&i&

I agree with rcmoser 100%, that sharpening a chain properly to specs is a challenge and it take good lessons and observations to learn (once the specs are loss).

1. The use of bad angles could cause the chain to try and cut too much related to power or cut curved.
2. The paid pro fixed sharpener vs Dremel or file usually gets all right each sharpening with more chain lost.
3. The dremel and file offer more quality sharpening if you learn and respect angle guides and proper stones.
4. Since going to the dermel in 84, that is all I use with a careful eye until any damage is removed vs touchups.
5. Once I sharpen a bad chain, I test it to know I got the angles correct and expect cords of cln wood from it.
6. My goal is to inspect clean and repair during my downtime at home and only any minors away from home.
7. I try to limit serious cutting to a month with or behind tree trimmers in cool weather respecting air-cooled.

The link below shows Home Depot's related ver that I got from Sears in 84 that has worked well for me.

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100674908/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=chainsaw%20sharpener&storeId=10051

Loger

I've used that same 18 inch oregon bar and chain combo for years on a Husqvarna 350 - never had a problem. That's cutting up to 24 inch diameter red oak.

I had a similar problem on an Echo CS400. There are 2 holes in the bar. The adjuster goes in lower one and the upper one is open to the channel in the bar. Oil was runing down the side of the bar and not getting into the channel. I cut 2 gaskets and placed them on both sides of the bar. The inside one surrounds the oiler port and the outside one covers the bar upper hole. I glued them in place on the sides opposite the bar with gasket compound so that chain tension could be adjusted without moving the gaskets. This solved the problem. I really don't know what caused the problem. Maybe I had a distorted part.

Anyone know the dimensions of the woodruff key on the Husky model 61 chain saw? (Year 1996-1997)
I would like to use an off the shelf replacement if I can find it.
Thanks in advance for your valuable time and help.