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dave_danger

Troy-Bilt Horse Tiller assistance

dave_danger
18 years ago

Hello All, a new member here! Hope to absorb lots of info from you all :)

Several years ago, I inherited a Troy-Bilt Tiller from my Dad... a "Horse" model I believe. He purchased it along about the mid-70's as I remember. It's a recoil start, Tecumseh engine... approximately 8 to 10 HP. It has always started and run well, so I have had no need to ever chase parts for it. Suddenly however, it's leaking fuel from the carb, running badly and is needing some major work. I'm an aircraft mechanic and am capable of doing the necessary wrenchwork, whatever it comes to. I suspect I'll need to purchase a carb overhaul kit at the very least. I can't find however a single dataplate on this unit anywhere that identifies it exactly! Is there anyone that can give me some assistance on determining exactly what I have as far as year model, model #, etc. ??

I've looked and can't find any manuals that I may have had over the years. Nothing :(

Thanks in advance for any suggestions!

Comments (164)

  • rej2
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I also have heard the flywheel is not available new. Have seen several listed on e-bay though. REJ2.

  • larryo_2007
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I own a TroyBilt tiller 7hp Kohler probably made in the 80"s. What would be a reasonable price to ask for it? It runs great and I have never had any problems since it was given to me by my father in the early 90's. thanks.

  • rakuch
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Fish (or others),

    I also am looking for help with an old Walbro carburetor: WHL 07 2109. The Walbro web site does not list it and also states that it does not support model WHL 08. The carb is on a Kohler K161 (7 hp), which is on my old Horse. Symptom: gas leaking from the air filter.

    I just finished tilling 12 yards of mulch into the clay "soil" in my back yard, so I guess the Horse deserves a rest and some TLC.

    Thanks much for any help with parts or advice.

    Randy

  • growercari
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Just got a '77 Horse. It has a Kohler 8hp motor on it (not the original). After using the tiller for about ten minutes, gas started spurting out of the hole in the gas cap. Seems like pressure is building in the gas tank.

    Any ideas as to the cause of the problem would be greatly appreciated.

  • rakuch
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    larryo,

    I live in the Washington, DC area and bought a similar Horse this spring via Craigslist for $500. It runs well but requires a fair amount of maintenance -- I've worked it pretty hard.

    Hope this helps.

    Randy

  • cgiambo
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi I inherited my dad's tiller and am in the process of getting it started. The last time he used it was a couple of years ago and he has passed away now. So, I'm trying to figure out how to get it running again. It was a bear to crank but ran good once started.
    It is a Gardenway TH-1019 with these other numbers, 6.5 OHV, Briggs and Stratton, Intek IC 206. I can't find the serial number where its supposed to be located.
    I know it needs a spark plug, anybody know which one is needed and possibly a serial number for this thing? Thanks.

  • snapshot46
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I recently purchased an old Horse and am trying to resurrect it from the dead. Among other things, the carburetor has a broken ear where it bolts up to the head. If I get this welded, does anyone out there think I can rebuild the carb back to a functioning state. This thing has the Kohler K161 7HP engine on it. Not sure where to even look for a rebuild kit but from what I've read here, they are available. I would like to try to salvage this engine as I think it is the original that came with the tiller.
    Bill

  • fredrbeck
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I inherited a Pony last year that was made around 1978. No owners manual or experience with the beast. I've used rear tine tillers for years, but have been a source of entertainment for my wife as she watches me chasing after the pony around the garden.
    Now I'm not a stupid man, but this thing is making me feel that way. Tried "resisting" the runaway pony, and just get my heels dragged. Have tried pushing down, but the engine just dies.
    Expecting loads of gunk in the carb, I went ahead and rebuilt the carb recently hoping that would help the problem with the engine dieing. Engine runs much better, but still seems to die easier after getting hot.
    So, two problems. The first is tips on technique for using the tiller. I've seen the "walk beside this tiller" commercial and long for this to be true. Hopefully, this won't require years of struggle until I finally get this soil worked into coffee ground-like texture... The Pony seems to work fine in soil that is soft, but the garden is only two years old and though I used a commercial grade unit to start, the soil still compacts hard between spring and fall tills. Anyway, good coaching would be appreciated.
    Two, the gets hot issue. Found tips on-oine on how to adjust the carb after rebuilding. 1.5 turns open on the new needle valve. (Yes, this is the old diaphram carb on a B&S engine.) All new parts in the carb, clean ports that I blew compressed air through. Intake into the head had rust in it, cleaned all that out as well. Don't see too much else to adjust as the carb is pretty simple. However, not only is my wife quite entertained by my chasing antics, she has noticed that my right shoulder has gotten quite larger from all the re-starts on the manual pull. Folks in the adjoining park are baffled by the 30 seconds of engine run time followed by a loud expletive - all repeated quite often.
    Just about to buck the "love my Troy-Bilt" trend and opt out for an old front-tined tiller. At least I know how to wrestle one of those and I've never had these types of small engine problems...
    Appreciate the help folks.

    Fred

  • dave_danger
    Original Author
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Welcome Fred,
    My "Horse" model does a beautiful job of tilling Old Georgia Red Clay to "coffee ground" consistency, but there's one thing I've noticed about these rear tine tillers... it's the tires being transmission driven that resists the tiller lunging forward while you try to use it. I've never used a "Pony" so I don't know how it sits weight wise, my Horse has plenty of weight to keep the tires planted. You may possibly need to add a little weight to help it do its job. A few suggestions I can think of:
    The adjustment screw(s) on the carb need to be fine tuned to make that engine produce power properly... Not knowing exactly which carb you have, I can only suggest that any screws available (fuel and air) need to be adjusted beyond the "factory settings" that you get from the manuals. They usually give you a specific number of turns to set the screws and that will probably get you started, but after you're up and running, you'll need to veeeeeery slowly lean the fuel adjustment (turn as if closing) until the engine seems to make peak power and rpm. If you have an air adjustment, do the same with it after the fuel is set. You may have to fiddle with both adjustments several times as changes to one screw affects the other slightly. What you ideally want to reach is the leanest fuel and air mixture that makes power and rpm. If you lean either setting too much, you'll notice it immediately. Back it up a bit and re-adjust.
    As far as actual tilling, it is sometimes necessary to set the tine depth very shallow and run over the soil breaking it up in layers. Simply setting the desired depth you want to finish with is probably too much load on the engine, regardless of how well it's running.
    Something I learned with the hard clay type soil I deal with, and it sounds like you have something similar... it hardens very solidly between seasons. I always have something on hand to till into the clay when I go thru it, whether its plain old sand, loam, manure, grass clippings, compost, or any type of organic that helps thin the clay particles. It takes a while, but it eventually becomes mixed enough with the organics that it no longer turns to concrete between seasons.

  • fredrbeck
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    dave_danger,

    Thanks much for the reply. My Pony is one of the older models with the diaphram carb - and has only a single setting with the needle valve. I've taken it slightly off the factory suggested setting of 1.5 turns and tried to lean it, but that was as good as I was able to do.
    I think you hit the nail on the head though. I just need to not be so aggressive on the depth setting and take more passes.
    When the tiller works, the soil is broken up better than I have ever seen with a front-tine tiller. I'll just have to keep trying things or simply give in and buy a pair of track shoes. After all, having my wife entertained this way is much cheaper than many of the alternatives!
    Take care,
    Fred

  • fredgsanford
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hey all, I am looking at purchasing an old horse model supposedly built in the 70's. It has a 6 h.p. Tecumseh engine and right now that's about all I know about it. It's advertised for $275 and it looks rough from the picture - mainly just dirty. The owner says it starts easily and "gets the job done"... I am very mechanically inclined and have resurrected many gasoline powered tools. Is this a good deal even if I have to replace the tines and eventually the engine? Is there any particular year or model to steer clear of? When I was a young lad, my grandfather had a horse that he had bought brand new. I remember helping him put it together. He used that thing for 25 years - HARD, and it never gave up on him. The electric start kicked the bucket early on but, the engine was strong for a long time. Towards the end I think the engine gave out but, I think the tiller itself was still strong as ever. Any advice for me?

  • gator_rider2
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I bound 2 in june one for 175 other 180 the 180 I am rering it oil useage both ran good all seals went out wheels and tong shaft bearing were tight had order 4 tong seal at close out western auto store is call auto store now. The 6 hp engine parts were in at another store same type ring head gasket side cover and seal oil useage cause by there not being spring under oil wiper std size no wear on cylinder it is 1979 model troy horse 4 speed other 2 speed. I'm trying to buy Big Red troy bilt from up road may never happen. I found both these horses to need air filters and oil changes transmisson as well 140 wt for them. I load tires with slime stop some leaks. Will add vent to transmissions this winter I think need that.

  • dickraymondsmyidol
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I just bought an older Horse model on Craigslist in Rochester, NY for $165, the owner said his grandfather picked it up at the Troy factory in the mid 70s. Carb was gummed up so I got the tiller very cheaply, but got it running in about an hour with a little help from some carb cleaner.

    The drive belts are slipping now, does anyone have the specs on the belts. There is a good online belt dealer that will ship them if I have the spec: http://www.bestorq.com/info/contactmailer2.asp my father in-law used them for some odd belts for a drill press, fast delivery and very reasonable.

    Also, the tiller needs new tines, anyone have any suggestions for sources other then eBay? I'd also like to know if anyone has had any success using the hiller/furrower?

  • norm78
    16 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    rebuilding 79 horse 8hp b&s looking for decal on tine hood any help thanks

  • ajp0007
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Well my Troy Bilt Horse tiller is up and running. Because the gas bowl float was wearing out and dumping gas slowly into the cylinder over time, it deposited alot of carbon on the cylinder head. I scraped it with a piece of wood and cleaned the valve head were exposed.I reassembled it after buying a new float for $8.00 and checked compression with my old compression gauge from the past,
    I also changed the coil ,points gapped .20, oil and transmission fluid 85-140 bought at Auto Zone.new spark plug gap.30. The tranny fluid was milky colored so it appears that if it was left outdoors in the rain , the water finds its way into the tranny case through the T handle at the base of the steering handle.
    One big question What year was it manufactured, I have searched everywhere to no avail. Here is the #'s

    Tecumseh engine -HH60-105090E
    serial-5009D
    roy bilt horse-Transmission Block stamped-136457

    The previous owner said it is about 20 years old, built in Troy NY.
    I am looking for an exact year of production.
    Any help will greatly be appreciated so I could put this mysery to sleep.

  • rej2
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    ajp0007, your tiller was made in the first half of 1975 according to the serial # stamped on the transmission. Info obtained at the troy bilt tiller club website. The engine serial # 5009D indicates a year ending in 5, 1975, or 1985. Since the HH60 was discontinued in 1994 and if the motor is original, it also is probably a 1975. REJ2

  • dogo
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm not going to be any help to you . I am like a lot of others just like you . I need help also. Maybe someone will be kind enough to help me . I have a real old Garden-Way The #'s I have TH-1019 It has a 7h.p. Kohler cast iron engine . Spec.281293 Model # K161T Serial # 12066734 I can't find a bit of Infrmation on this machine please someone help . Thanks a bunch......

  • solemnsovereign
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hello all,
    I'm new here and have recent experience with my new/old horse. After struggling to find the "sweet spot" between belt slippage and self-disengagement, I finally found remedy in a multifaceted approach. (I like to get all the odds in my favor)
    If you find more than about 1/16" of "slop", you'll need to drill, bush, and lube the four pivots which articulate the detente wheel, "tightening up" the action. Then rough-up the pulleys, replace the spring, (it's strength plays a major role) and adjust the detente block as low as it can be engaged so the belt will run tight.
    If you do these things, occasionally dress the belt, and adjust the detente block as needed, you'll have no more "popping out", slipping, or belt-suicide.
    I would also recommend welding a 3/8" rod, 12" to 14" long; one end to the top/back of the spring plate and the other (slightly bent) to the clutch lever about mid span. This will stiffen the lever and make engagement a "snap".

    many blessings, -- Charlie

  • s_tallent_mchsi_com
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have a troy bilt horse ser/394300 and would like to
    know the year made. Also, need a replacement engine
    had a tucumsi originally. recomendations on what
    would be the best engine for replacement?

    thanks
    steve

  • jed_gk
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    * FOR SALE * Old Tecumseh HH60 Engine * FOR SALE *

    Recoil start Tecumseh HH60 Engine, from 70's for sale. Last run in 2007. Complete w/ fuel tank, air cleaner, carburetor etc. Please email me directly for additional information.
    jed_gk@yahoo.com

  • fisher40037
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Wow, this thread just keeps going, and going...........

    Fish

  • rej2
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Tallent 1 your Horse was made in the first half of 1979. Info obtained from the troy bilt tiller club site on yay-hoo groups. REJ2.

  • tallent1
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    thanks REJ2. will look at the site.

  • brucew44guns
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hello, new to this forum, glad to be here. I have a 1977 year of mfg Horse Tiller with 7 HP Kohler. I broke off the carburetor accidentally. The raised numbers on the carb read C-234252. I have looked until going blind, I cannot find that number carb mentioned on the web. Parts Tree.com has my engine model==K161T and the spec # 281271 showing for a carb, but telling me that it replaces some other number that is close to my carb # but not exact. Looks like the right carb when I compare, but 200.00 plus shipping slows me a little unless I know for sure. Anyone know of a source perhaps a little less money for one of these? Thanks---Bruce

  • smokysun
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi, I am new to this forum as of about 5 minutes ago, but had read a lot of it before registering, and it looks to be a great group.

    First: How odd this one about the broken off carburetor on a Troy-Bilt, as that is how I acquired mine. (2 days ago) Its carb had been snapped off, and the then owner could not get another, so he sold it to me. Having done some magic with JB-Weld before, I used it with the carb I had on my Tecumseh tiller engine, and got it back together, and working great!

    For about 3 minutes! :-(

    That brings us to Second: My carb repair seems to be holding up just fine. Its just that no spark is being generated is what the problem is now. I have tried different plugs, and using both the manual and electric start with the plug out and grounded against clean shiny steel, and still zero spark. I removed the fuse and diodes and cleaned their contacts and replaced them after testing them, but still no spark. Wire looks OK, but its original I would bet, and I can only see the outside portion. Shut off switch is working correctly, so that is not the prob.

    So, aside from pulling the engine apart to see if there is something wrong with the magneto, is there anything else I should look for? What could croak in the ignition after only a couple minutes of running fine?

    (If you would like to know how I repaired the carb with the JB weld, let me know, and I will tell you. I once put an International A tractor block back together with the stuff when I could not find a replacement, and 15 years later, it was still running just fine, with no leaks. )

    Finally, how do I tell what model tiller I have? I can find no ID plates on the unit aside from the engine, which is a 6HP Tecumseh HH60. No other ID info aside from casting numbers on it, and direction stickers for the levers. Any source of manuals online for the older models? I sure I will have other questions, but I am still a newby with this little darlin'!

    Thanks. I have LOTS of reading to do on this group, and about Troy-Bilt tillers.

    Best regards!!! Smoky

  • boltonranger
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    You may have a bad coil. The diodes and the fuse (on the side of your engine, yes?) Are not part of the ignition circuit. You have an electric start tiller with an alternator under the flywheel and a charging circuit.
    Often when the a bad coil warms up it will quit on you. It could also possible be a problem with the points.
    -br

  • mrnevermiss
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi all,
    I need some help changing the axle seals on an older troy-bilt tiller serial #23-6244, the engine is an hh60 105101f. I got the wheels off, they were well lubricated from the leaking seals, but I'm not sure how best to get the seals out. There appears to be what I think is a dust cap in there first and with a light I think I can see the seal behind it. How do I get that cap out without ruining it. There's only about a 1/16" clearance in the hole thru the cap and the axle that goes thru it. The cap is flush with the case. I don't even think a small blind hole bearing puller would even fit, besides I don't have one. Sure I can try to pry that cap out but I seriously doudt that it will be reuseable let alone recogniseable. Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks!!!
    mrnevermiss

  • davefr
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I've had ignition problems with my 7HP Kohler Horse model in the past. The problem was a bad condensor when I used the original mechanical points ignition system.

    I decided to convert it to electronic and Kohler offered a retrofit kit. Maybe you can do the same with your 6 HP Tecumseh.

    I would urge all Horse owners to go electronic ignition if they can. Mine never takes more then 1-2 pulls to start even after sitting for motnhs.

  • mrnevermiss
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi again,
    Nevermind, goter done. What I thought was a dust shield was indeed the axel seal itself. The new ones are rubber or something as the old but the old had a tin wrapper.
    I just pryed them out and as I had said if it was a dust shield I'd be buying new ones.
    mrnevermiss

  • mrnevermiss
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hey,
    I could still use help with model and year id. I tryed the www.troybilt.com but all I get is (the format of the serial # is unknown). My engine is the cast iron block hh-60 105101f ser-6140c. The machine has the serial #23 6244
    stamped on the flat in the appropriate location. Also were can I find the front and rear seals? Thanks!!!
    mrnevermiss

  • boltonranger
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Don't put in as much info in the parts search field.
    Also try no spaces or dashes.
    -br

  • rej2
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Mrnevermiss, your tiller was made in the second half of 1976, Horse I or Horse II is your model, most likely a Horse I. Info obtained at the troy bilt tiller club on yay-hoo groups. REJ2.

  • bdf1816_yahoo_com
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have a 1983 Pony Tiller that has an oil leak around the wheel shaft. I have removed the pins and "C" clips from the shaft and can get the left wheel off but not the right. I've soaked it in penetrating oil and will try the tilling suggestion offered in another post to loosen it. I feel fairly confident I can get the wheel off but what then? Does the shaft just slide out or are there other retaining clips that must be removed? Thanks for any advice.

  • georgia_ron
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Dave Danger--any chance you live in Columbus? I do and I just bought a Horse II, complete with a layoff plow and a front scrape blade. Mine has an 8 HP B&S.

    Working on a leaking tire. Question: Comments on wheel removal here refer to removing a roller pin. Do I drive out this pin with a punch and hammer?

    Anyone use a scrape blade? How about any PTO attachments, such as generator or wood splitter?

    Thanks

  • rej2
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Brian, if the Pony is similar to a Horse the wheel shaft does not have to be removed to change wheel shaft seals. Remove wheels, remove seal by carefully prying it out as outlined in owners manual by driving small screwdrivers thru seal in two places opposite each other and prying out, then lube new seal and slide it over shaft carefully seating it as before with a seal driver. REJ2.

  • bad_dog
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm not having much luck tracking down the hood decal for a 1976 Horse 1. Does anyone know of a source. I've tried Troy Bilt parts department without success. Even if someone had a digital picture I could get one made up.

  • sflafayette_yahoo_com
    15 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Hi Everyone,

    I need some help identifying what type for Troy-Bilt tiller I have in my garage. The numbers I have gleaned from different areas are as follows:
    TH 1002

    TH-1001-1
    IF4
    3/1/76

    1008-1

    TH-1201 IF3

    Any help on model identification and manuals would be of great help.

    Take care,

    Sterling
    sflafayette@yahoo.com

  • val_s_campbell_hotmail_com
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have a 1992 Horse with a Briggs and Stratton 7 horse engine on it. I am finding that the transmission is extremely hard to shift. I have changed the 140 weight lube in the tranny but that doesn't seem to help. I can shift it when it's running and by bumping the clutch a little, but with only the strongest effort, to the point where I'm afraid I'm going to break the shifter.... how common is this? This tiller was purchased a couple of years ago and had very very little run time prior to that.. owned by an attorney that probably only put 10 hours on it in the previous 18 years.... didn't shift that hard when I first got it????

  • pbeauphot_gmail_com
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I've read mention here of converting condenser ignition to solid state. Can someone tell me if this is available for the HH60 Tecumseh engine?

    Thanks
    Philip

  • krb1945_yahoo_com
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I have a 1984 Troy-Bilt horse with the HH-60 Spec 105116H engine. I am in N. GA right now and my manual is in S. GA. I have a chance to change my current dying engine with a new Kolar or Honda 7 or 8 HP manual start.

    My problem is I need to know the length and diameter of the machined end of the crank shaft where the tiller belt pully mounts.

    All help is appreciated by this old, very old, farm boy.

    Thank you, ken

  • jewelljamey_yahoo_com
    13 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I inherited a mid to late 70's horse with the double pully for high and low gear. The problem is this thing is chewing up belts left and right. I recently put alot of money into the engine to get it running good and I can tell this old machine is worth saving but I cant buy a new belt every time I use it. Is this common with these old tillers? Is there a solid fix to this problem? Any real advice will be appreciated.

  • pat_48_verizon_net
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    looking for carb linkage info for a Troybilt Pony Mod# 15009.
    Engine is a B&S 135297 Type 0157 01.The B&S Parts list shows mechanical governor rod but not as part of the diagram. I put it together with the rod connected to the throttle crank on the side of the carb and the lower end onto the governor arm. The throttle goes open okay when sliding the toothed plastic block to increase RPMs but doesnt go back to the idle stop screw when decreasing speed (sliding the block back). Does the mechanical governor control the idle speed or am I missing something.

  • albertbencalhoun_aol_com
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I removed a shot 6 hp tecumseh, took it to a engine sales shop, had the shaft and mounting sized and replaced it with a 6 hp honda Did all of the work in about 2 hrs. The honda is a jewel and is so easy to start

  • oreo9706_sbcglobal_net
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Where can I locate piston rod and rings for TH1002?

  • shortstop_k_yahoo_com
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    I'm looking at purchasing the troy bilt pony 250cc rear-tine garden tiller. What I would like to know is, why is the Pro-Line FRT 160cc garden tiller an extra $200 dollars more than the 250cc but it has 90cc's less engine? I looked at the troy bilt website and the only difference between these two tillers are the price, the engine size, starting system (which I don't understand), and engine maker (Honda vs Briggs & Stratton). Am I paying an extra $200 dollars for the honda name or is there something I'm missing?

  • larydbrown_ns_sympatico_ca
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Can anyone out there direct me to someone who can tell me if the 8hp Briggs&Stratton Troy Bilt Horse serial # 403 888 I own, was originally manufactured as a counterclockwise rotating tine machine (CRT)or as a forward rotating tine (FRT) machine? The original manual has long since disappeared.
    I have had the seals and back assembly redone and the repair shop personnel claim its a FRT. To my recollection the machine was a CRT. Any help would greatly be appreciated......

  • wjcooper_aol_com
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    TH 1003-1
    B1

    on case

    Kohler Magnum 8 engine
    model M8T
    Spec 301608
    305 cc

    Need belts and wheels
    Runs good, just needs a few things to fix it back up

    Anyone know where I can get a manual and parts

  • dolphinrivera_gmail_com
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Horse Modey Troy Bilt Roto Tiller / power composter
    6 HP Serial Number 159896
    Engine: Tecumseh #105122J
    Serial Number 6113D
    I've tried searching the web for: carburetor kit and recoler starter with rope (pull rope)
    The owner does have the book, I guess I should have taken the book with me this morning, since after looking a three different sites for parts, I'm confused as to what the part number should be.
    Can someone please help me. Thanks

  • Idrathernotsay_yahoo_com
    12 years ago
    last modified: 9 years ago

    Lary,

    These are forward rotating tine machines, not counter-rotating tines. All of the old Horses were this way.

    Bill,

    The number you posted is just a casting number, not the serial number. Look below the T-handle and clean all the gunk off to find a serial number. Parts that you need are readily available from a bunch of sources, including MTD (who took over for Troy Bilt)

    Jenice,

    If you have the 6HP Tecumseh engine, you dont have all of the model number. What you posted is the "spec" number. Your model number is most likely HH60. Use that model number, and you shouldnt have any problem finding the carb kit. The recoil starter may be a little bit harder to find.

  • HU-481076612
    10 months ago

    Look on the engine cover the side opposite the the fuel cock.....mine was painted over but it's there.

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