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Gate in an existing wood fence

cbars
17 years ago

I have an existing wood privacy fence. I want to cut the fence and turn the fence section into a gate in a section of the fence that two 4x4 posts are about 4' apart.

Can I just cut the section that I want, hinge one side, and install a latch on the other side.

Seems to simple. What am I missing??

All help would be appreciated. Thanks.

Gary

Comments (8)

  • tracktor
    17 years ago

    I am in a similar situation. I need to replace a 6 foot gate (two 3 foot opposing sections) that is part of a fence around a swimming pool. The existing gate is very flimsy and dragging on ground. I am looking for a good plan for a wooden gate, so I hope you don't mind if I piggyback on your post.

    Thanks.
    All suggestions appreciated.

  • tommy_oh
    17 years ago

    Gary - you're not missing anything. I did this a few months ago and am not a huge handyman (yet). Do yourself a favor and hinge both sides (more room always better), check the clearance on the bottom (you may want to cut an inch or two to avoid issues), get one of those latches that sticks into a pipe in the ground (aids stability). It's a good project.
    Do me a favor though - spend extra money and get hardware that won't rust - nothing worse than rust bleeding on wood.

  • maineman
    17 years ago

    Gary,

    When you remove the section to open it up for a gate you are, in effect, creating two corner posts. In other words, the gate will exert extra stress on the posts. Hopefully they are well seated.

    If you choose a gate frame that has a structural connection over the top (and possibly across the bottom), you can reduce the added stress on the posts.

    I am considering adding such a gate into a T-post fence and I am looking for a gate that has a self-contained frame with a sort of decorative arch over the top to carry the load and also to act as a trellis for some vines. I would also like for it to have a frame member at the bottom to stabilize it there. I will slightly bury the bottom frame member so it won't be a "tripper". My T-posts probably aren't as stable as your wood posts, so structural integrity may not be as much of a problem for you.

    MM

  • genesii
    17 years ago

    Once your fence/gate is cut free in the center (or maybe even before you start), you may need to add a diagonal brace from the top of the hinge side to the bottom of the latch side. This will keep your gate square and stop it from drooping.

  • tkendr01
    17 years ago

    A 48" gate will exert considerable leverage on the hinged side. I recommend adding a corner post in the fence line to create a 36" opening. Build the gate in-place, adding a Z-brace (2x4 material) where the high end of the diagonal is on the hinge side. The hinges should line up on a gap between pickets. The non-hinge side of the gate will require a vertical board to hold the latch. The keeper can be on the adjacent post. Once it's all built, cut the fence picket stringers free and open the gate.

  • cbars
    Original Author
    17 years ago

    Thanks everyone for the responses.

    Got it done over the weekend. A little more work than expected but it worked out.

    Gary

  • jimtnc
    17 years ago

    What....no pics??

  • Nigel (northern Va; 7A)
    7 years ago

    I am just about to start this project with the back of my fence and figured I'd just add and do exactly what was said here... I hoped for pictures though..lol


    sorry for the bump in the thread so old but since the info is hear and rather starting a new thread on the same topic.


    Do you recommend cane bolts at the bottom of the fence along with galvanized piping or what is the best way to lock it?


    I will note that I would only be using this to bring in firewood from the common area, so the weight of the gates would be on the ground just as the fence is currently. I don't need a free swinging gate I have no issues lifting up on the new gate to open then set down on the ground to rest.


    Thanks,

    -Nigel