They are a little tricky. When I got my HC151, I have a hack of a time starting it until I find a fomular.

1) Prime the bulb at least 5 or 6 time till the gas going back into the tank from the second tube.
2) Close the choke all the way, make sure the switch is on!!( Don't laugh, happen to the best of us!!!)
3) Pull until it turn over and want to start.
4) Very quickly open the choke all the way and pull again. If it started with full choke, quickly open the choke.

Now My HC151 start at 3 to 4 pull max. all the time. If you do it wrong and it won't start after 10 pull or so, you might be flooding it already. Then you might want to hold the throtle open and pull start with choke open.

Hope this will give you a good starting point. I use this method on all my stuff and I have very good luck with it.

Multiple pulls out of the box is normal, the fuel system needs to be fully primed. The big problem is not the manufacturer, they need to set the carb overly lean to comply with emission regulations. This can make starting more difficult. My older Echo GT2000 is very easy to start but I was able to adjust it properly.

My two echo's usually take about 5-6 pulls each. Then again, my craftsman blower usually takes 7-8 pulls.

Yungman is on it. You may have to play around with it to get the best routine for your equipment. Generally for me I close the choke, 2 limp pulls not even trying to start it, open the choke and a pull to start.

The first pulls with the choke are to charge the crankcase with fuel, too many pulls with the choke just flood me out.

If it's cold out I give 2 pulls full choke, open the choke 1/4 and a pull to start.

Funny, I'd tell anybody the stuff starts on the first pull 'cause I don't count the practice yanks.

As mentioned many are set to lean and need to be set a little richer to start and run right. Steve

To Ladylake

Problem is a lot of the newer CARB stuff don't have air fuel adjustment. My Honda don't. I know Redmax don't have. I think that's the reason there are so much more complains on RM lately. I looked at Maruyama CER230 engine and Tanaka 2530 trimmer engine, don't have hi-speed needle either.

You pretty much get what you get. I bought Shindaiwa M242 mainly because it is not cold nature and it does have the adjustment and the most important it is not STRATO technology like Redmax, Tanaka, Kawasaki and Maruyama.

Ladylake, your tale is typical of most gasoline trimmers and edgers, with some easier than others. I live in a neighborhood where nearly everyone has their yards done by commercial cutters. Even with the better equipment, they carry spares, and must yank their arms off trying to start the things. In this case, modern technology is the same as it was 10 - 15 years ago but with a tiny improvement. My Echo SRM 210 that gets proper maintenance is not terribly difficult to start but requires numerous hard pulls and if the 210 doesn't start within several, it gets flooded.

One reason I prefer Stihl products. From my experience, they are really easy to start. My ms250 requires two pulls with the choke on, then move it to half on and usually in one pull it fires up. Same with my BR550 blower. Prime the bulb about 3 times, full choke one maybe two pulls, move it to the middle and it fires right up. I just bought my dad a stihl handheld blower for fathers day. Just as easy to start.

Anything under 3 to 4 pulls really don't make much different. My Honda trimmer always start with one pull 100% of the time. Sure don't mean much when the carb crap out after only 10 months!!!

If I had a engine without adjusters and it started hard or ran lean I'd take the carb apart and bore out the jet a little. Has to do that on a 6 hp Briggs that wanted to die every time the governor opened up. bored the jet a little and it runs great now. Or get a older carb that is adjustable Steve

I have a CS306, PB251 and an SRM210. They are all easy to start and all start the same way. Do not pump the primer bulb unless the equipment has not been used for a month or so. Lock the throttle wide open or hold it wide open if it doesn't lock. Put the choke on full and pull 2 or 3 times until the engine sputters. Set on half choke and pull once and it starts. An Echo product is easy to flood and that is why its necessary to have the throttle wide open. I like them all and think they are the best homeowner grade products made.

Ray I think those are a little older models before the Epa leaned things out and I wouldn't call anything Echo homeowner, everyone that I have is built a lot better than homeowner Husky and Stihl. Steve

I think people call some Echo homeowner because they sell in HD. No Echo is homeowner. Stihl Home Scaper is pretty good too even they are cheap. It is the same engine used in YardBoss and the commercial hand held blowers. I actually bought that engine on ebay and play with it. It is a two ring, full crank, big size bearing. In fact I like the way of the construction. the two half of the crankcase is top and bottom, not front and back. It make changing stuff a lot easier. Only thing I notice is the connecting rod is very thin in the middle. But so far nobody claimed to have connecting rod broken yet, so it must be good enough.

I don't like pulling on anything! I use carb cleaner to prime for the hard to start models. Carb cleaner evaporated quickly and DOES NOT HURT the ENGINE IMO when used as a primer or cleaner as directed on the can. naturally we would NOT want to fill the tank up with it and use no oil, but for the few seconds it take to prime an engine it don't hurt a bit IMO, done it for years and have NEVER had and engine failure. A one second blast down the carb throat usually it all it takes.

Do you just fill a little so it can suck into the primer bulb when push and try starting it? Does it even start?

I don't know why you guys insist on buying from the Mass Merchant. If you bought that product from my shop (Scotty's Lawnmower in Scottsdale), I would gas it up and show you how to start and use it. If it didn't start easily, you wouldn't even buy it. We assemble everything, review safety features, and we make sure we sell you the right machine for the job. And FYI-independent dealers can usually beat HD's price on Echo equip. by 10-20 dollars.

Here is a link that might be useful: scotty's lawnmower home page

Haven't you fellers figured out why those things are hard to start??
Well, it all has to do with the emissions programs.
The emission gurus finally got it all figured out--make something that is extremely hard-starting! A person who buys the product will try and try, to start it, but finally give up--tossing the machine in the scrap, and the machine will no longer be a polluting device! Just think, if none of the new machines would start--no more pollution!
Simple-eh?

I have an Echo PB-251 that is giving me fits. When I try and start it it floods to the point that fuel comes out of the muffler. I have rebuilt the carburetor twice and checked all the settings etc. I have a lot of experience repairing small engines and I have set this unit aside until I can deal with the frustration again. I think the Zama rotary throttle carburetors are garbage. There are no adjustment screws and the throttle "valve" is subject to wear by IMO a poor design.
They are also expensive to replace at $60.00+ delivery included.
I will try and start the unit at full throttle but "Joe Homeowner" must have fits with these finicky engines.

Your Echo PB 251 does have a High speed mixture needle concealed by the little black plastic cap on the side just under the fuel outlet and inlet of the primer base. There is also a black plastic cap on top of the carb that covers the side of the H needle. The needle actually threads thru that cap. Insert a small self tap screw into the cap on the side and pull it off. Under it is the slot head High speed needle. It can be adjusted to a point, then the brass sleeve is in the way. Run a small thread tap into that and it will easily pull out with the tap itself or a small machine screw. Now remove the mixture needle. You can now clean the jet orifice. When reinstalling it, you can set it to be "richer" than before you removed it and your machine should start easier and run better. You may need to experiment with the setting for it. No need for the plastic cap or the brass sleeve to be reinstalled. You can check the factory setting on it by counting how many turns you go turn it in before it seats. Note that, and then adjust accordingly after reinstallment. It is part no. 10 in this diagram.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/echo-pb251-p06113001001-p06113999999-hand-held-parts-c-35043_35044_36692.html

Rusty-- on your tongue in cheek answer--

My Echo weedwacker, was laying on a garbage can one trash day. I took it home and got it going in twenty minutes, with my modest mechanical skills.

So making them them hard to start doesn't help with emissions, I'm sure the tosser bought another one! Now there are two instead of just one (as I'm too cheap to buy one!).

Rob: Rusty's response was almost a year ago and what he described was logical then as it is today . Small engines either lawnmowers or chainsaws or trimmers etc. are all dealing with Epa restrictions !

After reading the posts here, and thinking I had tried it all to get the Echo PB250LN running out of the box, I thought I had given up after a day of cranking on the pull cord. Today I went back at it for a few pulls then decided to get creative. The spark plug was sparking, the engine was "on," the fuel mixture was right, but still the engine didn't want to give any signs of life. I even pulled my faithful Echo edger out and it fired right up (the #1 reason I bought an Echo blower). It gave me the idea that fuel wasn't getting to the engine, or it was not getting air required. So, I unscrewed the filter off the back (which I had done before, but hadn't cranked the pull cord). It was moderately wet with fuel. This time I decided to leave the filter completely off and crank the engine without it on. I did it on choke for a couple of pulls and it sounded moderately different. So, I flipped it down to on, and cranked and within 3 cranks it was on and humming. I let it run for approximately 1-2 minutes stationary without the filter on to let the engine run through. I then put the filter back on and it sputtered for a mere second then was back humming. I used it all day today for yard work and it worked wonders.

Resolution - start up for the first time with back filter off. Re-apply filter and screw on before using for yard work, but let engine cycle for 1-2 minutes first to get lubricated.

I have Echo, Stihl, and Dolmar equipment. Echos don't start any worse or better than the others.

Very Good Info! You have to learn "The Little Needs” of your equipment. I find it sequencing with season changes, running out of gas (as today) and Etc. On a mower that has fires 1st pull (6 yrs) or I missed something (priming, cleaning air filter or plug). Maintenance of Good Air, Fuel and Fire is needed. Total Routine Maintenance is a key to Equipment Working/Lasting.

Checking cleaning the air filter and primer’s squirt I knew I was good (vs running out of gas breaking the flow’s timing). It fired/ran w/o the filter when I saw a prime squirt. I knew I was ready! I knew running out was not good but forgot but d/n forget the Oil Check. I have learned I can cut twice on a tank of gas and checking the oil is routine w/o any known problems. I d/n calculate the slow cutting with extra grass with our North TX Rain.

I've been fighting my PB-500T Echo backpack blower for a month now. I know exactly what's wrong with it - the high speed needle is set too lean. You can thank Al Gore for that one! Fortunately the machine comes with a five-year warranty, so I need to drive 60 miles round trip (paying bridge tolls) to the nearest HD repair center store, then wait while they check with Echo, then find out what they will cover and what they'll try to talk me out of. If I leave it, I'll have to make the round trip all over again to pick it up. Makes a lot of sense and save a lot of petro-pollution making me drive 120 miles, right?

So, first thing to check is your warranty. If it's too late for that, you can buy a jet adjusting tool from vendors on eBay. Check carefully with a jeweler's loupe to see what shape the recessed jets have. Watch videos on Youtube to figure out what the jets look like and their location on your carburetor. Usual tuning sequence is (after you get it started) set the high speed jet so the machine runs as fast as possible at full throttle, then screw it out a bit. Remember your model airplane engines? Then bring it back to idle and adjust the slow (L) speed jet for the fastest idle. Lastly, set your idle screw to give a good, reliable idle. I usually go through the sequence twice, as the jets can interact a bit. Good Luck!

EDIT: I took my Echo leaf blower to the HD repair center today. They kept it (the tech was off today) and will try to fix it in-house, rather than ship it back to Echo. The counter guy told me the tools for an Echo carb are not available on eBay. It takes three tools to access this carburetor - not one.

Here's how you get your Echo trimmer going. Worked for me.

Recently you requested personal assistance from our on-line support center. Below is a summary of your request and our response. If this issue is not resolved to your satisfaction, you may reopen it within the next 14 days. Thank you for allowing us to be of service to you. To access your question from our support site, click here.

Subject
New Unit Wont Start

Response By Email (Dianna) (08/07/2015 02:12 PM)
Good Afternoon,

Thank you for your call to ECHO Incorporated! I am sorry to hear of the unfortunate difficulties you are experiencing. Per your e-mail, the problem seems to be caused by a flooded engine. Following the starting procedure listed below will prevent the unit from flooding out with excess fuel. Try these steps to un-flood the engine.

1. Check on / off switch. Switch should be in the run position, not in the stop position.
2. Choke lever must be put in the run position (choke open position). Choke must not be in the cold start or closed position.
3. Depress the purge bulb until fuel enters the bulb and the fuel returns back to the fuel tank through the clear line.
4. With the unit resting on the ground squeeze the throttle trigger to wide open throttle or fast position and at the same time the trigger is depressed pull the starter rope several times until the engine starts. A flooded engine will usually take 6 to 8 pulls to get engine started. This procedure should get your unit started. If you let off of the trigger when the engine started and the engine dies out, squeeze the trigger again and restart the unit. Keep trigger squeezed until the engine clears the extra fuel that has not burned in the engine or until the engine continues to run at idle and visible smoke from the exhaust has been reduced.

ECHO engines are designed to start very easily. If you leave the choke on and the starter rope was pulled more than three times and the engine does not start, the engine will flood. If you do not hear the pop within 3 to 5 pulls, place choke to run position and pull starter rope 2 to 3 times and the engine should start. If neither of the above situations help the unit start, the unit would need to be brought to an Authorized ECHO dealer. To locate the nearest Authorized ECHO Servicing Dealer, please contact our dealer referral line at 800-432-3246 (ECHO), or visit our web site at http://www.echo-usa.com/advantage.asp?transaction=search&template=map_search

If you have any other questions, please update your incident and we will be happy to assist you. Our representatives are available Monday through Friday 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m. Central Standard Time.

Sincerely,
Dianna
ECHO Consumer Support Dept.

Question Reference # 150807-000118
Date Created: 08/07/2015 02:06 PM
Date Last Updated: 08/07/2015 02:12 PM
Status: Solved

My pb580t broke after about 6 months..used about 5 times for 15 min. Each time..sent to home depot who sent it to echo. They "fixed" a valve..6 months later same problem . Now theyre saying its not covered under warranty? Its less than 2 years old. Never again will i biy an echo blower. Will go with stihl. Thet honor their warranties.

I want to share my story. I know this is an old thread, but it is a good one with a lot of helpful tips. After today, I have more to add. After reading all of this, I was itching to pull out my very hard to start backpack blower and try some things I read. I bought my pb602 used from a guy for $150 about 2 1/2 years ago. He was some kind of small contractor that was downsizing and just didn't need it anymore. Pretty sure he bought it used from somebody else. He said it was always hard to start, especially cold. Don't think he ever used it much because of that. When he showed it to me, it must have taken him almost 10 minutes and 30+ pulls to get it started. Every once in awhile it would pop, but not start. Once it did start, it ran like a champ. It was worn and used, but not abused or in horrible shape so I gave him his money and just figured it was old gas or some easy fix. Got it home and only used a couple of times that first year just because I didn't have much of need for it AND it was hard to start. Got it out last spring, couldn't get it to start, even with mostly fresh gas. I mix Stabil in with my 2-cycle gas cans, just because sometimes it sits around without being used for months. Had to replace the primer bulb then, too. Fooled with it a couple of times, got lucky and got it started a few times. Only really used it once or twice because it was so hard to get started. It would flood in no time. I would pull the spark plug and see it was soaking wet with gas. Sometimes gas would even start dripping out the muffler. So I would pull the starter rope a few times with the plug out, choke off, to help dry it out. There were a few times that I never could get it to start at all and just put it away in disgust. I am actually a pretty good mechanic and have worked on all kinds of equipment. A few years ago I was even the full time maintenance mechanic for a landscape/mowing company. Anyways, this blower was really starting to get the better of me. I was figuring I would have to tear it apart this spring and do all kinds of work to it or just sell it to someone and be done with it. I downloaded a copy of the Echo manual for my blower right before I found this article, just so I could read the proper cold start instructions. Anyways, after reading both the manual and this article, I got out the blower to see what I could do with it. It was getting late and I really didn't have much more than 10 minutes to fool with it. Here is where it gets interesting. I haven't done anything with it in 4-5 months. Checked the gas, had a little bit left in it from last summer, enough to try it. I didn't really have time to drain it and refill it with "fresh" gas. TRIED to push the primer bulb, but it was pretty chilly today- maybe 45- 50°. That aftermarket (Arnold) primer bulb I put on last year just would not move. It is difficult to reach in the first place and is very hard to squeeze even in warm weather. I picked up the blower and saw there was gas in the primer bulb, so I thought what the heck, just skip trying to prime it. I opened the throttle about 3/4 of the way to full throttle. I know from having had it run before, that position pretty much wide open. Which, IS NOT, what the manual says to do. The manual says open the throttle to the start/idle position, which is about the lowest throttle setting. Anyways, closed the choke. Gave it two weak pulls to build up some compression. Third pull was a good yank. It started right up. It has never started that easily. I moved the throttle down a little and let it run a while. Gradually started to open the choke as it warmed up, but I did it too fast and it shut off. So, I closed the choke again and opened the throttle back to 3/4. Gave it one firm pull and it started right up! It has never done that either. I let it warm up 2-3 minutes then shut it off. Tomorrow I am going to fill the tank and see if this new trick works again. Maybe actually do some clean up with it.

What I learned about cold starting mine (but I could be wrong). Most of this is almost the opposite of the manual:

1) Don't use the primer bulb unless necessary. Only if you run it out of gas or otherwise know there is no gas in the carburetor. Using the primer bulb unnecessarily MAY contribute to flooding. If you see gas in the bulb, that probably is good enough. As long as there is gas in the carburetor, that should be enough.

2) Open the throttle to a wide open position, NOT idle/start, as the manual says. The more air flowing though the machine, the better. Less likely to flood.

3) Give it one or two weak pulls before really trying to start it. Helps to fill the combustion chamber with enough fuel vapor and build up compression.

Besides not using the primer bulb at all, the two things I did different was to open up the throttle wide and give it two weak pulls before really trying to start it. Hopefully I won't have to deal with it flooding anymore