Return to the Tool Shed Forum | Post a Follow-Up

 o
Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

Posted by jdhayes washinton (My Page) on
Fri, Jun 11, 10 at 17:46

where to start? I have a HH60 105115H Ser#21460 bought a few day's back. guy who owned it from new say's he bought it sometime in the 1980's hardly used it, had it tuned in 1990 and would start it up every year for a few moments. It has alway's been stored inside - thank you for small favors!!
he had recently put a carb rebuild kit in, cause the carb was leaking, and had not put it back on correctly. so we could not get it to stay running and gas was leaking out like crazy. owner finally located a proper screw to hold other side of carb onto the engine, a Tecumseh. So, could get it to run and stay running long enough to run it up onto our truck. oh gas tank leaks too. so got it home, started up-backfired and died. started again, back it off the truck died again, out of gas CAUSE THE TANK LEAKS!. put more gas in it started it up moved it under the shed lean-too. and noticed that not only is it still leaking gas, but now oil is coming out the crank case vent hole, like an artery has been cut? what the heck? that was not happening when we loaded it up? i finally figured out that the vent tube was missing? attached a rubber tube to the brass flange and repaired all the gas leaks, fired it up runs good, but oil is still pumping out this makeshift vent tube. i have ordered through our local tractor store the parts.
however anyone have a thought as to why the oil continues to come out the tube? is it supposed to connect up to something else? the engine parts diagram does not indicate that? Help!!!


Follow-Up Postings:

 o
RE: Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

Change the oil. You may have loaded up the crankcase with extra gas going past the valves. Oil floats, and may be the source from the vent pipe. That happened to my Kohler garden tractor.
Ford


 o
RE: Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

ok, the oil change made a huge difference. you were right the oil had lots of gas in it. so put new oil in, and walla no more leaking. can you tell me where the breather tube attaches? does it hook up to the breather hole and up to the nipple under the air breather?


 o
RE: Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Sat, Jun 12, 10 at 22:38

It hooks to the breather cover, but some just hung down and vented to the atmosphere.


 o
RE: Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

the tube connects between breather plate (rectangular plate behind air filter housing), and the filter housing. It allows oil to drain back to crankcase. Manual says engine is overfilled if engine sits level while checking oil dip stick. We are supposed to push height adjuster all way down to 'traveling position' where tines won't dig in (and engine is tilted forward), before adding oil. Overfilled engine will pour oil out of filter cover.
You should find a gromet like thingy inside the breather cover. It is jammed into the tube to keep it in place on the cover.


 o
RE: Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Mon, Jun 14, 10 at 6:35

If it's a mid 80s engine, the drag bar is set all the way down and a 1 1/2" board is set under the drag bar. Then, you check the oil.


 o
RE: Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

I always thought the engine should be sitting level when ya check the oil!?!? I've never heard of having the engine in any other position.
My pickemup has to be more or less level when checking the oil in the engine, and i'd think all other engines would be too.
Only thing you might accomplish by your idea would be too much oil in the crank-case, and that would cause foaming and cavitation, plus it might cause other troubles.
The tiller engine, installed on the tiller, and filled with the proper amount of oil, will have enough lubrication to keep everything lubed well! And since the crank-shaft revolves, and the conn-rod moves up and down, and goes around with the crank, oil splashing in the case keeps everything lubed well! No danger of not being well lubricated, unless you don't keep checking the oil level when it is sitting level. Too much oil will definitely cause problems!


 o
RE: Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Tue, Jun 15, 10 at 11:23

Troy sent along an addendum with the owner's manual. I think I got the first year model of the PTO. Probably, due to redesign, the board had to be put beneath the drag bar to level out the motor. The pre-PTO must not have had this problem.


 o
RE: Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

Thanks everyone for the help. And I think we are getting closer to the "real" problem. Apparently after changing oil and running tiller several times, it then sat for a few day's. When one of the guy's moved it he found gas had again leaked into the crank and that it was leaking out of the bottom screw of the carb. He feels we should do a rebuild of the carb, and I agree. Once we figure out which carb we have I'm hoping we can get parts for it. Anyone know a good place to start for parts. HH60 105115H Ser#21460 - I'm hoping a local Lawnmower place may help us out?


 o
RE: Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

For carb parts you could likely succede with mfgsupply.com. they sell carb parts for the hh60. In despairation you can get new carbs at ebay or amazon. But doesn't this just sound like a needle valve/seat or bad float? that should have been found with the original carb rebuild. If the rubber needle valve seat is pushed in badly (cocked, or perhaps upside down, or left out) the carb will surely leak.

Rusty, my original post re tipped engine was directly from my 1978 original Troy Built manual, and I think I saw something formal about the additional board baymee talked about; perhaps from another part of the manual or from my addendum manual or perhaps another post here.


 o
RE: Troy Bilt Tiller HH60's version

  • Posted by baymee LehighValleyPA (My Page) on
    Fri, Jun 18, 10 at 21:36

The HH60 carb is like every other common Tecumseh small engine carb. You replace the needle and seat and clean the main jet. You should also remove the Welch plug on the side and make sure the 3 holes under it are open and clean. A 10 minute soaking in a rinsable carb cleaner will cure 99.9% of all Tecumseh carb problems.

I don't have any pictorials on this job yet.


 o Post a Follow-Up

Please Note: Only registered members are able to post messages to this forum.

    If you are a member, please log in.

    If you aren't yet a member, join now!


Return to the Tool Shed Forum

Information about Posting

  • You must be logged in to post a message. Once you are logged in, a posting window will appear at the bottom of the messages. If you are not a member, please register for an account.
  • Posting is a two-step process. Once you have composed your message, you will be taken to the preview page. You will then have a chance to review your post, make changes and upload photos.
  • After posting your message, you may need to refresh the forum page in order to see it.
  • Before posting copyrighted material, please read about Copyright and Fair Use.
  • We have a strict no-advertising policy!
  • If you would like to practice posting or uploading photos, please visit our Test forum.
  • If you need assistance, please Contact Us and we will be happy to help.


Learn more about in-text links on this page here