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Old Homelite 150 Auto

Posted by deano_2010 (My Page) on
Wed, Jun 20, 12 at 21:31

Inherited an old Homelite 150 Auto chain saw from my Dad. It has run great for a long time and I really like using it as it reminds me of him. Recently it started leaking fuel where the fuel line passes from the fuel tank area to the air filter area. Looks as though there should be a grommet around the fuel line. So question is, is there supposed to be a grommet there to keep the fuel from leaking past where the line goes through? And if so, where do you get one? Can a regular grommet from the hardware store work and if so what size would it be? Hope someone can help me out with this so I can keep the old saw going until something major finally gives up. Thanks in advance for your help! Serial # is 32190769 if it makes any difference.


Follow-Up Postings:

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RE: Old Homelite 150 Auto

I needed a grommet for my approx 30 + year old Green Machine Trimmer that I had no idea I could find (not seeing the machines on the market).

1. Without looking, I used a larger section of fuel line to seal serve as a grommet. Then I reduced it back down where needed using bobs ? and smaller fuel line.
2. While at a small engine supplier, I showed the deteriorated grommet and was shown it is still used on other models. Ask A Salesman! If you have a large and good supply house they can usually cross ref parts.
3. Please upload a pic and I�ll see if I can find my part # and parts configuration of one holes vs more (attached).

Good Luck!


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RE: Old Homelite 150 Auto

Thanks for responding loger. Without seeing one of these old Homelites it's hard to explain what's happening. The fuel is leaking where the fuel line passes through the wall of the fuel tank, the upper right part of the photo. Where you see the fuel line coming out is the actual wall of the metal tank with fuel trying to get out to where I took the picture. The fuel tank is part of the casting, one half in each side and then sealed when the engine is put together. The other end goes through the case and to the carb. Drained the fuel today and see no sign of a grommet so am wondering if the fuel line itself is supposed to seal the opening and maybe it's shrunk with old age (won't even go any further with that one!). Anyway, hopefully I can get some input as to how to keep the fuel in the tank where it's supposed to be. Probably not many of these saws still in existence and still running. Look forward to any help you or anyone else can give! Thanks.


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RE: Old Homelite 150 Auto

Looking at your saw's casting vs plastic tank, I feel the line is designed to seal w/o the need of a grommet. The larger lines are cut to a taper to start/pass them through the casting and stretched in using needle nose pliers etc (with a good tight seal). Good quality line for small engines will be the "Key" vs any line. It is strong and tuff to take the stretching you will need to make the seal (stretching vs sliding). Good small engine shops will know your need. A quick look at the link below d/n show a grommet or did I miss it?

Good Pic and "Pics Compliment Words"!

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/homelite-150-ut10432a-chain-saw-parts-c-18807_21362_21364.html


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RE: Old Homelite 150 Auto

Sounds great. Next issue is, how do you get to the other end of the fuel line where it connects to the carb? The only way I can see to get to the carb area is to take off the pull start. Then, expecting to get access you find the rotor blocking even looking at it. Do you pull the rotor? Any ideas? Just trying not to destroy the saw fixing something as simple as replacing the fuel line which sounds very simple! Appreciate your responses and look forward to getting this guy running again.


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RE: Old Homelite 150 Auto

Not seeing your saw from a quick search will have me guessing.

1. In most cases on the saws I have worked, accessing the Carb is the key.
2. It might be necessary to pull the Carb but I w/n if possible due to gaskets, linkage, etc.
3. The Bottom Line! Do what you have to do to get the job done pulling only what�s needed.
4. Looking at my Poulan S 25 from the 70s, pulling the starter and air filter covers gives all the acc I need to the line (attached).
5. This will usually allow some PM cleaning at this point while covers are off.
6. How do I send multiple attachments in a post as I have seen vs one per post as I hate to do here.

Please show pics of the Carb�s fuel line conn and starter cover off as I have attached.


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RE: Old Homelite 150 Auto

Attachment #2

Not seeing your saw from a quick search will have me guessing.

1. In most cases on the saws I have worked, accessing the Carb is the key.
2. It might be necessary to pull the Carb but I w/n if possible due to gaskets, linkage, etc.
3. The Bottom Line! Do what you have to do to get the job done pulling only what�s needed.
4. Looking at my Poulan S 25 from the 70s, pulling the starter and air filter covers gives all the acc I need to the line (attached).
5. This will usually allow some PM cleaning at this point while covers are off.
6. How do I send multiple attachments in a post as I have seen vs one per post as I hate to do here.

Please show pics of the Carb�s fuel line conn and starter cover off as I have attached.


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RE: Old Homelite 150 Auto

The Homelite is up and going again! Had a revelation last night thinking about the shrunken fuel line. Why not put some shrink wrap on it to make it big enough to fill the hole where it comes out of the fuel tank area? Tried it today and it worked great at least for now. May have to repair it right later on but need to make chips right now. Wish the carb was easily accessible like on your saw but unless I'm missing something it looks like a lot of work just to get to it. Thanks so much, loger, for all your help. Looks like you're on here quite a bit so will stay in touch. Really nice to have a spot where you can share info and get help on problems. Probably will buy a new saw soon as a back up for the old Homelite (or the other way around) and that is a whole different issue as to what kind of saw is best in today's market! Lot's of opinions on that one for sure.


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RE: Old Homelite 150 Auto

When you get a chance, pull the muffler and clean the carbon in the port and spark arrest if equipped. Most of all, inspect the cylinder wall, piston's sides/skirts and rings. This could indicate the basic shape of the saw. Attached will be a Poulan S-25 I retired for parts vs throwing a rod after 20 yrs cutting 2-4 cords of firewood per yr on an avg. The #1 saw had good power but signs of heat led me to the bad signs of cyl, piston and ring wear. Possibly due oil blow-by shown hold chips not letting it cool properly (a lack of PM per major job). 20 years on a 250.00 saw! I can not cry except, I will miss that quality at that price. My body is saying Slow Down Man (after 40 + yrs). LOL!


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RE: Old Homelite 150 Auto

  • Posted by billw 5b - Kansas (My Page) on
    Tue, Jul 31, 12 at 23:28

HOMELITE just uses special sized Fuel line that needs no grommet.
It is slightly fatter than the hole it goes thru.
Bill


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RE: Old Homelite 150 Auto

I know the feeling of spending too much time replacing fuel line.

1. I agreed to replace a primer bulb on a friend's Old Craftsman Blower by WeedEater.
2. A bad primer bulb turns out to be "All" bad fuel lines and the wrong bulb when he arrived.
3. Very seldom is it just a bad bulb vs all but the task of replacing old line can be a nightmare.
4. "After R&R the needed", I saw where an exp tech saved feeding/pulling/trim/line.
5. There are lessons to learn w/o manuals, old experiences on many first time jobs.
6. The attached job needed tank accessed,long needle nose,"only" rem carb to work after R&R exp.
7. My promise before seeing the trick was to never touch a similar blower. LOL!
8. Most lines on newer equipment seems designed to easily replace from very open/simple/routs
9. A trick is using barbs to switch line sizes vs over/under sizing, test for restrictions/seals.
10. IMO, dealers have a better grade line vs a cheaper, it will stretch/pull past breaking feeding.

Good Luck With Challenges!!


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