Extensions are a cheap and easy DIY. I think all buried sprinklers should be on a swing pipe or attached with "funny pipe". Raising a swing joint involves more digging than an extension.

Thanks! I agree extensions would be reasonable for a DIY maybe even a Handyman vs the Irrigation Company. One Neighbor told me that I had saved her Hundreds by replacing3-4 heads for her that her Yardman cut due stems not retracted. She quoted the repairs as 120.00 + parts per visit (which I can not visualize).

IâÂÂll continue to repair 1-2 heads per season and etc quick repairs for three neighbors since 1973 as long as I can. Adding extensions or any repairs that are not almost instant is above my BodyâÂÂs Time As ThereâÂÂs. LOL. They call for advice vs labor since they are widows or handicapped. When I can do a repair, easier and faster than explaining or Etc, I Do It (plus I see many needs and report them).

The neighborâÂÂs yardman is agreeing to add PVC around the heads as locators and hold the approx 1â of dirt back on many. We were looking for other quick options since he will basically donate his time. The plastic Donut (attached) is out due to the need to pull and extend the heads. One neighborâÂÂs has 30 her son âÂÂThought Would WorkâÂÂ, w/o installing under the head (most have been a waste or cut).

What is the expected life of a head (if that is a fair question)? I have replaced very few since installing my simple system about 1980. I have upgraded oscillating to gear driven when needed or add popup in spots needed.

I used a couple ABS couplings to make my own collars for the sprinkler heads in the middle of the lawn.

More details here:

http://havingfunalongtheway.com/save-the-drowning-sprinkler-heads/

1. My neighbor had 40 heads and some that
   had gone below ground level due the years and had trouble popping up from lack
   of maintenance. My suggestion to the
   Yardman was to get the thick gray PVC (1/4” electrical probably).
2. Cut into 6” sections since the water pipe
   is below that and sand a bevel on the end to drive into the ground (with an aggressive
   sander/grinder vs slowly).
3. He showed with the sections and drove
   them in with a block of wood and mall per head, leaving approx ½’ above the
   soil. We have not noticed a soil blocked
   head since.
4. This allowed knowing where all heads are
   and a light trim if needed.